Sweet Nothings Crochet: SHELLED SURPRISE TOP

SHELLED SURPRISE TOP

Welcome back to Sweet Nothings Crochet free blogs. Let’s see how we can whip up this beautiful shelled pattern, shall we?

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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 200 gms of the lovely All Seasons Hobby India acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size : S/M 34”

Size only given for a rough gauge on yarn requirement.

You can make this to any size using any yarn with a suitable hook.

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

We start our project from the bottom up – from the base of the top to the shoulders. So our first start row will be half the round measure of the part of the body you are working with – ie. How long do you want your top? IF you want it till the waist, then you will start with half round waist measure. Remember that you need to check both the half chest / bust measure and waist measure and use the larger half round measure.

You can make this pattern into a crop top as well - once again, all the same parameters and measurements - just make it shorter and slightly looser rather than fitted :)

Part 1 : Front and back

Make two

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start with fdc in multiples of 16 + 1 for half the round waist / chest measure. Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1^st fdc ;

*ch 5, sk next 3 fdc, sc in the next fdc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st sc ; ch 2, sc in the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

*ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till last ch-5 sp ;

ch 2, dc in the last sc. Turn

Let’s start our shell pattern. We will work a set of dc 2-tog.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

Shell Stitch : (dc 2-tog ; [ch 1, dc 2-tog] ; rep [to] 2 times) all in the same ch-sp

Row 4 : sc in the 1^st st ;

ch 4, sk next ch-2 and next ch-5 sp, Shell st in the next ch-5 sp ;

*ch 4, sk next ch-5 sp, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 4, sk next ch-5 sp, Shell st in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till last 2 ch-sps ;

ch 4, sk next ch-5 and next ch-2 sp, sc in the last dc. Turn

Row 5 : sc in the 1^stsc ;

*ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

(ch 2, dc in the next dc 2-tog ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn

Row 6 : dc in the 1^st sc ; ch 2, sc in the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

*(ch 5, sc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till the last dc ;

rep [to] once;

ch 2, dc in the last sc. Turn

Row 7 : dc in the 1^stdc ;

dc 2-tog in the 1^st ch-2 sp ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same ch-2 sp ;

*ch 4, sk next ch-5 sp, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 4, sk next ch-5 sp, Shell st in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ;

ch 4, dc 2-tog in the last ch-2 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same ch-2 sp ;

dc in the last dc. Turn

See how we’ve shifted the shells? Neat huh?

Row 8 : sc in the 1^stdc ;

(ch 2, dc in the next dc 2-tog ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

*ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next sc ;

ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till the end,

ending with (to), and sc in the last dc. Turn

Row 9 : dc in the 1^st sc ; ch 2, sc in the 1^stdc ;

*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once ;

(ch 5, sc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till the last dc ;

ch 2, dc in the last sc. Turn

and just like that we have one pattern repeat done.

Rep Rows 4 – 9, ending with a Row 5, till you reach the about 2” off the armhole level. We will then extend a little bit to get a little bit of a sleeve in.

Before you go off to work on your repeats, here’s an idea for shaping of the body. In case you want to shape a bit, change down to a smaller hook size for the space between waist and chest, and then when you need a little increase for around the chest, work back up to the higher hook size. ;)

When you reach just off 2” from the armhole level or 32 cms (as per the designer’s chart), then we will work in an increase.

Remember that the body part of the pattern stays the same. We increase only the ends.

I’m just going to continue numbering from Row 9, though we are all obviously not going to be working Row 10, but you know what I mean. ;)

Row 10 : Increase Row :

2 dc in the 1^st sc ;

ch 3, sc in the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

*(ch 5, sc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till the last dc ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 3, 2 dc in the last sc. Turn

Row 11 : Increase Row :

dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 1, sk next dc, dc 2-tog in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

(ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same ch-3 sp);

rep (to) once ;

*ch 4, sk next ch-5 sp, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 4, sk next ch-5 sp, Shell st in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ;

ch 4, dc 2-tog in the last ch-3 sp ;

rep (to) 2 times;

ch 1, sk next dc , dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 12 : Increase Row :

dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 3, sc in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(ch 2, dc in the next dc 2-tog ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

*ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next sc ;

ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till the end,

ending with 2 x (to) ; ch 3, dc in the last dc. Turn

Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs

Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0

Row 13 : Increase Row :

trc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 4, sc in the same 1^st dc ;

(ch 5, sc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once

*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once ;

(ch 5, sc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till the last dc ;

ch 4, trc in the same last dc. Turn

Row 14 : Increase Row :

sc in the 1^sttrc ;

ch 3, Shell st in the next ch-4 sp ;

*ch 4, sk next ch-5 sp, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 4, sk next ch-5 sp, Shell st in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-4 sp ;

ch 4, Shell st in the same last ch-4 sp ;

dc in the last trc. Turn

Row 15 : Increase Row :

dc in the 1^sttrc ;

*ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

(ch 2, dc in the next dc 2-tog ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till the end ;

dc in the last trc. Turn

Row 16 : dc in the 1^st sc ;

ch 2, sc in the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

*(ch 5, sc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till the last dc ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 2, dc in the last sc. Turn

Rep Rows 7 – 9 followed by Rows 4 – 6 till you reach the neckline level, ending once again with a Row 5.

Part 2 : Neckline Decrease ideas

1) Decide how deep and how wide you want your neckline

2) Place a marker on either side to mark the width of neck. For this, fold your project in half, find the centre and then place 2 markers at equal distances away from the centre which will be the side markers.

3) As we have the shell sts on Row 5, followed by two ch-5 sps. So if you can, work till the sc in the middle of these two ch-5 sps for each side. If this does not work out for you, then just work till the point that you need to and work the pattern all through accordingly.

4) You will continue this all the way to the shoulder level.

5) Once you finish one side, re-attach your yarn at the 2^nd marker (for neckline) and then work all the way to the shoulder

Part 3 : Pattern for the shoulder portion

So after you have finished the all-dc row, the top of the vest is a really simple one and I’m going to write this down quickly for you. Remember that this will be worked after the all-dc row ; and just for convenience, I will call these Rows 1 & 2.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

After this lovely combination of patterns, we’ve finished one side of your lovely vest. Rep all these instructions for the other side of the vest as well.

Part 4 : Finishing

So you have successfully finished two halves of your vest.

Using one of the joining methods giving above, join the shoulders and sides of this top / vest.

I have then run a round of hdc all around the armhole and neckline.

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Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/snazzy-chevron-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/02/choco-strawberry-ripple-crop-top.html