RANGEELA
TOP
Welcome
back to Sweet Nothings Crochet free blogs.
Today’s top is really simple. We
use really easy stitches, but work in an unusual construction to get this
top.
Rangeela
means colourful in Hindi and this top made with Vardhman Crayons yarn is just
that – fun and colourful.
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I
was asked to test this yarn and decided to use it to make this vest/top.
This
yarn is not specific to this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level.
Stitches used :
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
As
I said before this is actually a really easy pattern.
We will be using just dc and sc in today's project.
What
do we do differently to make this an 'unusual construction'?
We work our
pattern from the right side of the body to the left, and the first row that we
work will be the length of your top.
You can make this a crop top too. Just keep the length shorter and work each row till the length you need.
Yes,
we always work from right to left, but we work from the base of the top to the
shoulders or v/v, right? So in this
case, we will start working from the shoulders to the base of the top with
every row, and work across the top. Make
sense?
The diagrams below are not to scale – for instructional purposes only.
This is what you'll do if you are making two rectangles for your front and back of top. In this case, you just follow pattern instructions to make two rectangles, join shoulder blades, leaving a neck opening + join sides, leaving an armhole opening and you are done with your top!
So as you can see, we
will make two rectangles – one each for the back and front.
We will then join the sides, leaving an
armhole opening, and join shoulders, leaving a neckline opening for a scooped
boat-like neck and a slight Magyar like sleeve.
I
have worked a small square neckline and I’ll give you ideas on how to work out
this small neckline as well.
Calculations
:
1)
You
need to get your measurements for round bust and round waist.
2) You need to
measure how deep you want a neckline, if you want one
3) You need
round arm measure, for armhole opening
You
will use the largest measure between bust and waist as we are working a
rectangle. Keep in mind the stretch of
your yarn and looseness of your work.
Our
first fsc row will be the length you need for your top measured from
shoulder to the base of the top.
Our
stitch count is in multiples of 4 + 1
We
will use a “V”-st which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
Start Row 1 : in fsc in multiples of 4 + 1 for the length of
your top. Turn.
Row 2 :
dc in the 1st fsc ;
(sk
next sc, “V”-st in the fsc ; sk next fsc, sc in the next fsc ) ;
rep
(to) till last 2 fsc,
sk
2nd last fsc, dc in the last fsc.
Turn.
Row 3 :
sc in the 1st dc ;
(“V”-st
in the next sc ; sc in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) till the last dc ;
sc
in the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 :
dc in the 1st sc ;
(sc
in the next “V”-st ; “V”-st in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) till the last sc ;
dc
in the last sc. Turn.
and
that’s our pattern.. done!
Rep
Rows 3 & 4 till you reach the width you need for your top.
Tweaks :
Below
are several ideas – choose one or several to get an unique top made.
Now
if you are working 2 rectangles – then your pattern is done.. and all you need
to do is work two rectangles with the above pattern.
For
finishing, you will attach the sides, leaving an armhole opening, and then
attach the shoulders leaving a neckline opening.
Check
the bottom of this blog for joining ideas.
There
is a small finishing for both armholes and neckline – scroll right to the
bottom for Finishing instructions below.
In
case you want to get a square neckline :
The
pattern stays the same. You just need to
mark where you want your neckline, and you will work from the bottom of your
work till that marked point and then work back down to the bottom of your work. This just means that you reduce some stitches
from the top – got it?
Where
does this get tricky ? You need to count off how many stitches you are taking
off the top – and keep a note of this.
When
you finish the width of your neckline, you will need to add chains when you
come up to the 2nd point for your neckline. The number of chains (in multiples of 4 + 1)
will be what you have ‘dropped’ or not worked on for the other side of
neck. So for this section, first row,
you will go back to the pattern you have worked for the 1st row of
your top. Just remember that each
chain now is the fsc. Got it? Yes, a wee bit complicated, but you can do it
!
Once
you finish this first row, you will go back to working repeats of the pattern
as before till you have the same shoulder as you have for the first side.
You
can decide to work a square neckline for front and back, or work back all the
way to the top. Either way, you will
join the shoulders evenly.
Even
in this case, you will join the sides, leaving an armhole opening.
Finally,
I worked in another small tweak. I
wanted a slightly lacy bit between the shelled (“V”-st) bits.. so here’s what I
did.
I
started the pattern as given and worked 3 rows in pattern. I then worked 3 lacy rows.
For
lacy rows, assuming you are working after Row 4, I’ll continue numbering
accordingly
Row 5 :
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch
1, dc in the next sc ; ch 1, dc in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) till the end. Turn.
Row 6 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
dc
in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch
1, dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) till the end ;
dc
in the last dc. Turn.
Row 7 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
(ch
1, dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) till the end.
dc
in the last dc. Turn.
In
case you want this lacy finish, you will work rep of Rows 3 & 4 twice, and
then rep Rows 5 – 7 once.
Finishing Instructions :
Finishing
really makes a difference to all projects – especially when worked with
lighter, finer and solid coloured yarns.
I’d
suggest you run a round of sc all around to get an even finish first. Then you can finish with picot stitch or the
crab stitch for a neater finish.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
There
are many joining techniques. Here you go
Today’s lovely yarn is Vardhman Colors acrylic
yarn. I love the speckled effect of some
of the color stripes. The Colors range
has some interesting color changes, and this yarn will work well for a
multitude of projects. You can use this
for baby clothes, blankets (child or adult) as well as warm clothing (jackets
or tops for adults) with great end results.
Use this with a 3.5 / 4 or 4.5 mm
crochet hook, depending on the project and looseness / tension of your work.
Hope you had a fun creative project today. Do come back right here for more fun n interesting patterns
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
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