I've always been fascinated by patterns that are slightly differently constructed and I have my Pinterest boards full of stuff like this .. I wonder when I'll actually go through all of them - but that's half the fun, isn't it.
In all my patterns I give you loads of ideas and give you a lot of opportunity for creativity and thought. This makes my patterns usable with any yarn and suitable hook and to be made to any size.
This is not my original pattern, but I found some info here. This pattern really fascinates me due to the diagonal pattern that looks like chevron but isn't constructed that way. These are my notes as I work on my own creation.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 200 gms unbranded knitting cotton yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Ganga Olivia acrylic yarn. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn
For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.
Size made : M/ 34"
Difficulty level : Advanced
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.
We can work this pattern in two ways.
A) We work it with an shaped armhole and "V" neck ; OR
B) We work a neat rectangle without any shaping for armhole or neck - and then you get a slight 'sleeve' (as the shoulder falls over to create a small magyar-like sleeve) and a slight 'cowl' neck or boat neck.
If you are working Idea A, then ideas are given below for decrease and armhole shaping
Idea B is the simpler option which also gives a really lovely end result.
I'll be interested to know which idea you choose, so do let me know and I'd love to share your end result on my social media pages - so do reach out.
You need a few measurements before you start :
1) Length of top (front and back)
2) Round chest measurement
3) Depth (or dip) of neckline
4) Round armhole measurement (just so that we can ensure proper side coverage)
Our stitch count is in multiples of 16 + 1
Read all the notes below before you jump into the pattern
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start Row 1 : with fsc in multiples of 16 + 1 for half the round hip / waist measurement. Turn
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9wRow 2 : dc in the 1st fsc ;
*(ch 2, sk next fsc, sc in the next fsc ;
ch 2, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc) ;
[ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc] ;
rep [to] once ;
dc 2-tog in the next fsc ;
dc in the next fsc ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till the end. Turn
Before we head into Row 3, let's make it a bit simpler to read the instructions. So the "V"-like pattern st that is made in (to) instructions of Row 2 will be called "V"-stitch.
To clarify this will mean the stitch made with (ch 2, sk next fsc, sc in the next fsc ; ch 2, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc). Got it.
So whenever we encounter this pattern stitch, we work ch-3 over it and for all other stitches we work only a ch-1. Right - let's see how we do this.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*[ch 3, dc in the next dc] ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
dc 2-tog in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till the end. Turn.
..And just like that we've moved the dc 2-tog pattern and there's a diagonal pattern in the make.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*[ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, dc in the next dc] ;
dc 2-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
{ch 1, dc in the next dc} ;
(ch 2, sc in the next dc ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the end. Turn.
With each row we are moving the dc 2-tog one stitch to the right so that we get a neat diagonal of "V's" and a raised feature which is the dc 2-tog.
Neat pattern, eh?
Follow the chart above for more clarification.
Notes : The beauty of this pattern is that you can do so much with it.
I have given you the basic pattern but if you follow that through you will get diagonals that go from right to left all the way to the top.
So if you want to get the "V"-chevron effect, you need to find the centre of your first row, and then reverse the pattern for the left half of your project.
You will then get the dc 2-togs in the centre that will divide your work into the two diagonals, giving you the chevron effect. Follow the chart above for more clarification.
Idea A : For the neckline shaping : What I have done is decide how far or deep I want my neckline and then stopped at the centre point and decreased for the neckline.
How to decrease ? I have worked a dc 2-tog over 2 sets of sts skipping the ch-1 sp in between. This means that I am decreasing 2 sts per row for neckline. Continue decreasing similarly till you get the shoulder width needed and then stop decreases.
To stop decrease you just work dc on top of the last dc 2-tog st and you have a straight end to your neckline.
Remember to make a note of whatever you are doing to the first side of your neckline for easy repeat and mirroring on the other side
Idea B : NO neckline or armhole shaping : So continue without any shaping all the way to the shoulders. When you finish two rectangles (one each for back and front), join shoulders, leaving a neck opening and join sides, leaving an armhole opening, and you're top is done!
For the armhole shaping : I skipped sts (10 sts for my size, which includes dc and ch-sp) for the first row - the first row being the depth of the armhole (which is round armhole divided by 2 - so 15"/2 = 7.5" from top or shoulder in my case)
I then worked dc 2-tog over the next 2 sts skipping the ch in between, just like we have done for the neckline. I repeated the dc 2-tog decrease once more and I had the shape I needed for my armhole. I then continued working without decrease till I reached the shoulders.
Remember that sometimes your armhole shaping and neckline shaping may be at almost the same point, so you will decrease at both ends for a row or 2
For the back : I decided to work a plain pattern with just dc and ch-1 sps. I worked the same number of sts as I had for the front but worked dc in the 1st st ; ch 1, sk next st , dc in the next st and worked this simple pattern all the way to the end.
I mirrored the armhole shaping for front and back - so even back decreases were dc 2-tog skipping ch-sp in between.
For sleeves : I mulled over making sleeves but decided against it. Had I made sleeves I'd have chosen to work the same simple lacy pattern of the back.
For this I'd first join the sides and shoulders and then work a round of sc all around before starting the simple pattern.
Again ensure that you keep a note of the sts you work around the first armhole for convenience of mirroring the second armhole.
Finishing : I have worked hdc all around the armhole, base of top as well as neckline.
For the neckline, remember to work hdc 3-tog over the centre front 3 sts for a neat "V" finish (i.e. if you choose to work hdc. If you work sc, then of course you you need to work sc 3-tog over the centre 3 sts)
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Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
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