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Saturday, 14 September 2024
JUTE & COTTON TOP
Today's beautiful creation has been made with some awesome jute and cotton yarn. The unbleached jute along with the black cotton makes for a stunning top. This pretty easy two - row pattern gets done in a jiffy and looks awesome ! Come along and let's work on this exquisite crochet top together. With all my patterns, you need to think just a wee bit - but that also allows you to be creative and to use this to make my patterns to any size, using any yarn and a suitable hook.
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Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work.Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.
For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton.Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn
For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
Size made : 34” (M/L)
You can make this project to any size.Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.
Single Crochet : Sc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.
For this pattern we are working two rectangles - one each for front and back.
You also need to decide (& measurements you need) before you start :
1) Length of top (front and back)
2) Round chest / waist / hip measurement
Depending on how long you want the top, measure till waist or hip. Then use the largest measure for the first row of the pattern.
3) Round armhole measurement
You can make this project to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.
4) We will work the exact same pattern for front and back.
PART 1 : Front & Back
The stitch count for our project today is in multiples of 8 + 1
Now you can work the whole project in just one yarn but I have worked the yoke in jute and the body of the top is in knitting cotton.
I will not indicate color changes as that will mar your creativity 😃
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start Row 1 :with fdc in multiples of 8 + 1 for half the round waist / hip / chest measurement. Turn.
Double Crochet : dc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.One dc made.Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
Today we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Row 2 :dc in the 1st fdc ;
*sk next 3 fdc, dc 3-tog in the next fdc ;
(ch 2, dc 3-tog in the same fdc) ;
rep (to) once ;
sk next 3 fdc, dc 2-tog in the next fdc ;
[ch 2, dc 2-tog in the same fdc]* ;
rep *to* till end ;
dc in the last fdc. Turn.
Note : The pattern has been written assuming you are ending with the set of two dc 2-tog at the end.
Row 3 :sc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 3, sk next st, sc in the ch-2 sp ;
ch 3, sc in the same ch-2 sp) ;
[ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 3, sc in the last st. Turn.
The beauty of this pattern is that we follow the same rep of Row 2 all the way through - so we have the set of three dc 3-tog in the same sp as before and the set of two dc 2-tog in the same column as before as well.
Remember the pattern has been written assuming you are ending with the set of two dc 2-tog at the end.
Row 4 :dc in the 1st sc ;
*[sk next ch-sp , dc 2-tog in the next ch-sp ;
ch 3, dc 2-tog in the same ch-sp] ;
sk next ch-sp , dc 3-tog in the next ch-sp ;
(ch 2, dc 3-tog in the same ch-sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
rep *to* till end ;
dc in the last sc. Turn.
and that's our pattern done ! An easy two row pattern repeat.
Rep Rows 3 & 4 till you are at the shoulder level - or have the length you need for your top.
The beauty of this pattern is that you do not shape armholes or neckline and get a lovely automatic cowl-like / boat-neck like finish for the neckline.
There is also a drop shoulder finish so you get a small sleeve that falls gently over the top of the arm.
And as we're working the same front and back pattern, this is totally reversible (no front or back).. How cool is that, eh?
Once you complete both front and back sections, join at the sides, leaving an armhole opening, and join shoulders, leaving a neckline opening.
Use one of these methods to join the squares together.
I've used the join as you go method but choose whichever works for you.
The top is finished and looks great as it is, but you could work a row / round of finishing over and above this too.
Single Crochet : Sc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
I have worked a round of sc
Half Double Crochet : Hdc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Work a round (or a few rounds) of sc or hdc all around the neckline and armhole opening.
Remember to work 1 st in each st (and 2 sts in each horizontal bar of dc) around the openings.
You could also work a round of picot and/or finish with the reverse single crochet/crab stitch around.
How to work the Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : In case the video tutorial does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk
You can also choose to work a round of picot after working a round (or few rounds) of sc/hdc around the openings.
I'd suggest working a picot in every alternate st around.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
and that's our awesome jute and cotton top all done!
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