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Thursday, 19 June 2025
KATIA OMBRE CROP TOP 1
Crop tops are great creations that can be used for several occasions and not just the beach and as with all my patterns, all you need is a little bit of cotton yarn, a hook that works with that yarn, a bit of imagination - and you're on your way to create something unique and exciting. I've used some awesome Katia multi-colored cotton yarn but you could work the same thing with any yarn, and even with one single solid color. Oh I've used Katia yarn before for a crop top and that's here
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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 60 gms Katia knitting cotton 4-ply yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook
Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work.Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.
For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton.Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn
For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
Size made : free size (as its backless - has just straps for adjustment)
Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level.
The stitches are basic but there are calculations that make this advanced. That said there is a good explanation given, so go ahead and try this fantastic project.
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. hereand here
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.
You also need to decide (& measurements you need) before you start :
1) Length of top (front and back)
2) Round chest measurement
3) Depth (or dip) of neckline
4) Round armhole measurement (just so that we can ensure proper side coverage)
I've ben inspired by this pattern but I changed it as I wanted my top to be less holey or lacy. I have used a multi colored yarn but if you want a stunning effect, do use multiple colored yarns.
Double Crochet : dc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.One dc made.Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
In the following round we start with a dc 3-tog. I suggest you look at the chainless dc start and use that as your first dc. In case you are unable to do this, please work ch 3 that works as your 1st dc and then work the tog st. In case even this is too hard to figure out please start with a plain dc for the 1st st in this round and the next.
Note : I have chosen not to weave in my starting tail yarn as I'll weave that in when I work the base - but you do what suits you.
Row 2 :dc 3-tog in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 7 times. Turn.
Row 3 :dc in the 1st st ;
(ch 2, sk next st, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp) ;
rep (to) 7 times ;
ch 2, dc in the last st. Turn.
Triple Crochet : trc :wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
{3 trc ; ch 2, 3 trc} all in the same next ch-2 sp ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
3 trc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 1, trc in the last st/dc. Turn.
and this is the start of the triangle
Row 5: dc in the 1st st ;
2 dc in the same 1st st ;
dc in next 15 sts ;
(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the centre ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next 15 sts, till the last ch-1 sp ;
2 dc in the last ch-sp ;
dc in the last st. Turn.
Row 6: dc in the 1st st ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next st, dc in the next st) ;
rep (to) 8 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc , (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the centre ch-2 sp ;
rep (to) 9 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 7:dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next 2 dc ;
(dc in the ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till the dc before the centre ch-2 sp ;
[2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc] all in the centre ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep (to) till the last ch-1 sp ;
2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 8:dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till you reach the centre ch-2 sp ;
[2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc] all in the centre ch-2 sp ;
3 dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) till you reach the last ch-1 sp ;
2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 9:dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
dc in each dc till the ch-2 sp ;
[2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc] all in the centre ch-2 sp ;
dc in each dc till you reach the last ch-1 sp ;
2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
and that's our pattern all done. We've got a lovely little triangle and all you need to do is increase it till you get the length you need from the bottom part of the triangle (i.e Row 1) till the pinnacle which will be the base of the neck.
Rep Rows 6, 7, 8 & 9 till you get the length you want, ending with either Row 7, 8 or 9
Now here's where the Advanced level requirement comes in.
When you rep the rows, you may have to make a few quick decisions as your project grows. For eg ; In Row 12 (which is Rep of Row 8), when you reach the centre ch-2 sp you have only1 dc left just before that ch-sp which we skip, so on the second leg working down to the base, you will skip just the 1st st and then work the pattern as given.
This may happen with other rows as well but all you need to remember is whatever you do for the row working up to the centre ch-sp, you will repeat the same thing on the way down to the base
and here are how Rows 10, 11, 12 and 13 will look. Like I said remember to pay attention to the sts near the centre ch-sp and repeat those sts for the return leg.
Row 10 : Rep of Row 6. Row 11 : Rep of Row 7
Row 12 : Rep of Row 8. Row 13 : Rep of Row 9
We need to work on the neck-tie on the last row of your work.
Neck tie :
As you work your last row, we will work in the ties in the centre ch-sp.
I suggest you work a long chain in case you want the wearer to be able to criss cross it behind her back. I suggest at least 250-300 chs.
So at the centre ch-sp work one length of 250-300 ch and then sl-st all the way back ; sc in the ch-sp and then the second length of 250-300 ch and sl-st all the way back again. Then work down the other side of the top to complete the last row.
Once you have reached the length you want (keeping in mind that we're now going to add a few inches for the base), stop work but do not cut yarn.
We will turn our work 90 degrees and work on the base row (which is extension of Row 1) and work simple sts this side. For convenience I'll restart row numbering.
Use whatever st works for you - sc / hdc or dc.
Base Row 1 : dc in the 1st st ;
2 dc in each horizontal bar of dc along the length of base all the way till end ;
dc in the last st. Turn.
Base Row 2 : dc in the 1st st ;
(ch 1, sk next st, dc in the next st) ;
rep (to) till end ;
dc in the last st. Turn.
Base Row 3 : dc in the 1st st ;
(dc in the ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
dc in the last st. Turn.
Base Row 4 : dc in the 1st st and in each st till the end. Turn
Base Row 5 : dc in the 1st st ;
(dc in the ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
dc in the last st.
work as many chain as you want for the back tie - I'd suggest about 50 ch ; Turn and work sl-st all the way back.
Now work sl-st or sc all the way to the other end. Then to work the 2nd tie work the same number of ch as you did for the other side and work sl-st all the way back.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
work as many chain as you want for the back tie and then work the 2nd tie
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