Sweet Nothings Crochet: VIKARNA TOP 4

VIKARNA TOP 4

I've always wanted to try Milk cotton yarn and when I found that it was slightly thicker than I imagined, I wanted a top without too much pattern so that the softness and fall of this lovely yarn could shine through.

This is my fourth Vikarna (meaning diagonal in Hindi) top.

For my earlier ones, visit me here , here and here

So come along and let's see what we're doing today

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this to any size.

Please read through all my detailed instructions.

Come along, let’s work on this beautiful creation together.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 250 gms of Milk Cotton knitting cotton with a 4.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 34” (M/L)

This is only given to you to get a general idea of how much yarn you may need.

The yarn you require will depend on the size you’re making it to as well as the tension of your work

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.

For this pattern we will make two squares that will be the length and breadth needed for your top.

Length is easy enough - measure from shoulder down to see how long you want it

Breadth - this is half round waist or half round hip, depending on how long you want it. You should also keep your half round bust measurement handy and then you choose whichever is the largest measurement

There is no stitch count for our pattern as we start at one corner and then work a square - like a large granny square.

Note : As I have said before, check which is the larger measure – round chest, round bust, round waist – and use the largest measure for ease of wear. With this pattern, there is no neckline, as we attach shoulders, leaving a neckline opening, and that becomes a boat-neck pattern.

In case your chest (which is measured just below the largest round of the bust – i.e tape measure around bust point) and bust measures are not too far apart, then these small alterations are not needed. But in case you want a really fitted top, then pay attention to the ideas given below.

The pattern we're going to follow

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Start Row 1 : with a magic circle and work 2 dc in it ;

ch 3, 2 dc in the same magic circle. Turn.

Pull lightly to close but we are not going to join.
We are working in rows.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the ch-3 sp ;

dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st 4 dc ;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the ch-3 sp ;

dc in the last 4 dc. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st 6 dc ;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the ch-3 sp ;

dc in the last 6 dc. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

[ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] till the dc before the ch-2 sp ;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the ch-3 sp ;

dc in the next dc ;

rep [to] till the last 2 dc ;

dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 6 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

[dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] till the ch-3 sp ;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the ch-3 sp ;

dc in the next dc ;

rep [to] till the end. Turn.

Rows 7 - 8 : dc in the 1^st dc and each dc till the ch-3 sp ;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the ch-3 sp ;

dc in the next dc and in each dc till the end. Turn.

Row 9 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

[ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] till the dc before the ch-2 sp ;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the ch-3 sp ;

dc in the next dc ;

rep [to] till the last 2 dc ;

dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.

and this is our pattern all the way to the shoulders.

Easy peasy, right?

Rep Rows 6 - 9 till you reach the armhole.

For advanced crocheters : Once you finish one side, you could join shoulders in your final rep of Row 9 using the ch-sps, joining as you go along

Join-as-you-go joining method : https://youtu.be/zN3ECWTYXBk

If you find this difficult, finish the square fully and then use one of the joining methods given below to join

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Once you have finished both the front and back squares, join the shoulders (leaving a neck opening) and sides (leaving an armhole opening)

Sleeve ideas

With this pattern we automatically get a 'sleeve' that lightly falls over the shoulder.

If you want to have a slightly longer sleeve, then here's what I'd do

Re-attach yarn at the centre bottom of the armhole (joint of sides).

Work a round of sc all around in an uneven number.

Then work dc in the 1st sc ;

(ch 1, sk next sc, dc in the next sc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

I'd continue to work rounds with this simple pattern, working a dc in each dc and a ch-1 sp between dcs till I get the length I wanted for my sleeve.
I'd choose this simple pattern as it is lacy and we also have this lacy pattern in the body of our work.

As it is, I decided to go without sleeves and worked a row of sc all around to neaten the edges.

The other idea would be to work one row of lacy pattern as given above and then work all dc in the next round - which means dc in each dc all around and dc in each ch-1 sp all around.

If you want you could work 3 rounds of all dc pattern and one round with the lacy pattern and that will be exactly the pattern along the body of your top.

Showing off the fully completed VIKARNA TOP 4

Finishing ideas :

1) Join the shoulders and sides.

2) To work a border : Run 1 - 2 rounds of sc all around the neckline and armhole (if you are not working a sleeve pattern).

3) Remember when working with sc, you will work 2 sc in each vertical bar of the dc and 1 sc per chain space.

4) If you’d like run a row of ch-3 sps all around the armhole and neckline. If you decide on this : sc in the 1^st sc ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc) ; rep (to) till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

5) You could choose to run a row of ch-3 sps and picot as well. In this case, I'd try to work a picot st in every 2nd or 3rd st. It always helps to count the number of sts around the armhole or neckline first to ensure an even number of picot all around.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

More ideas

How to make this pattern into a crop top?

The main thing with a crop top is the length of the top. So decide how long you want it and off you go. I'd also suggest that with a crop top, using this pattern, you work 2 rectangles and get that loose boat neck pattern.

How to make this pattern into a jacket ?

Again its a simple tweak

Divide the front into two halves and make yourself a snazzy jacket too. You could work the neckline decrease pattern for the front, using the armhole decrease idea for a neat shape. I'd probably go with a 4 st decrease (rather than an 8-st one) for a jacket thought

Then I’d suggest that you work a continuous border all around the two fronts and base of jacket using the finishing pattern all around.

More fun ideas

Be different and make a top with just lower half open.. so with this idea the top portion is worked side to side, but the bottom portion is worked like you would for a jacket, front side to centre and back to side.

You then decide how deep or long you want this slit, and then join the pattern to continue working a full row from side to side.

This idea can be worked for the back or front.

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Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too OR just visit me at here on Pinterest

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/snazzy-chevron-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/02/choco-strawberry-ripple-crop-top.html