Sweet Nothings Crochet: PETRA JACKET

PETRA JACKET

Loved how the light DMC Petra yarn shows off this pattern to its finest, don't you agree?

I've made this pattern before as a top which you can find here

With this pattern there are so many ideas and possibilities, but with interesting possibilities come some interesting choices and small calculations.

Remember to read all the way till the end of this blog to get all these ideas.

I have worked this pattern using squares and then half squares (or a rectangle) and then another one with just squares and a lacy bit for the front.

I have also given instructions for two types of sleeves (so in case you wondered why the photo on top looked weird, now you know 😁 )

Come along..let’s get this cool Petra jacket done.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 100gms of an DMC Petra knitting cotton yarn with a 1.75 mm crochet hook

Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work. Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 34 (M)

You can make this project to any size.

Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Find a sizing chart here : https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/body-size-chart/

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

This is not my pattern. I found the chart here.

However there are no notes, so here are mine as I work on my project.

For your convenience I have cut pasted the charts for you.

Today’s pattern is made using the granny squares and its a beautiful light lacy pattern. We work as many squares as we need for the length and width of our project

Before we jump into making our squares, let's get a few calculations out of the way.

a) We need round bust, round waist and round hip measurements.

As always, please use the largest measurement for your calculations

b) We also need round armhole and sleeve length if you are making sleeves

c) We need depth of neckline for front & back if you are going to keep them at different lengths / heights

d) Finally as always I suggest you keep a well fitting top that you can use as a draft

e) For advanced crocheters : In case you are using a slightly thicker yarn (and hook), and still want a light lacy project, maybe try using ch-3 sps (instead of ch-5 sp). Do remember that I have worked ch-5 sps, so some of the end joining instructions may not work for you - but as you're an advanced crocheter, you'll know that you need then to work ch 1 + dc to be in the centre of the last ch-3 sp.

We start making the first square and measure the length (well its a square so length or breadth works). That will help us decide how many squares we need to get the half round bust/waist or hip measure.

The length of top is slightly simpler as we just keep working and adding squares till we get the length needed. There is also a chart for how we place our squares to get the finished project. Easy enough. Let's start.

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and work 4 dc in it ;

(ch 4, 4 dc in the same magic circle) ;

rep (to) 2 more times ;

ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st corner ch-4 sp ;

(4 dc ; ch 4, 4 dc) in the same 1st corner ch-4 sp ;

ch 2, rep (to) in the next corner ch-4 sp :

rep (to) 2 more times ;

ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st 4 dc ;

ch 4, dc in the corner ch-4 sp ;

(ch 4, dc in the same corner ch-4 sp) ;

*[ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc] ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 2, dc in the next corner ch-4 sp ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* 2 more times ;

ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Starting few rounds of the granny square

Double crochet 4-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog over 4 sts at https://youtu.be/WjSNi7ithIU

Round 4 : dc 4-tog over the 1st 4 dc ;

(ch 5, dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the corner ch-4 sp ;

ch 4, 3 dc in the same corner ch-4 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;

*[ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc] ;

rep [to] once ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* 2 more times ;

ch 2 + dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : This combination of ch 2 + dc places you in the middle of the last ch-5 sp. We start right here.

In case you are not comfortable with this finish, please work ch-5 and join with a sl-st. Then turn and work sl-st back in the same last ch-5 sp till you are in the centre of it.

Round 5 : (dc ; ch 3, dc) the 1st ch-5 sp ;

{ch 5, dc in the next 4 dc ;

ch 2, dc in the corner ch-4 sp ; ch 4, dc in the same corner ch-4 sp ;

ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc} ;

*[ch 5, sk next ch-5 sp, rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep {to} once* ;

rep *to* 2 more times ;

ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, dc) in the 1st ch-3 sp ;

*rep (to) once in the same ch-3 sp ;

dc in the next dc ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;

[ch 4, dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the next corner ch-4 sp ;

ch 4, 3 dc in the same corner ch-4 sp ;

dc in the next dc] ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;

ch 5, dc in the next dc ;

(ch 1, dc) in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 5, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Round 7 : dc in the 1st dc ;

*(ch 2, dc in the same dc ; dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 2, dc in the same last dc as the last st you worked ;

ch 7, dc in the next 4 dc ;

[ch 2, dc 3-tog in the corner ch-4 sp ;

ch 4, dc 3-tog in the same corner ch-4 sp) ;

ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc ;

ch 7, sk dc 4-tog, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around

ch 7, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ;

dc 3-tog in the same 1st ch-2 sp ;

*(ch 4, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

{ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc} ;

ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 corner sp ;

[ch 4, dc 3-tog in the same corner ch-4 sp] ;

rep [to] 2 times ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;

ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;

ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

ch 2 + dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note 1 : This combination of ch 2 + dc once again places you in the middle of the last ch-5 sp. We start right here.

Note 2 : I chose to work the 1st and last dc 3-tog for the corners, in the dc 3-tog from Round 7. This means I only worked two sets of dc 3-tog in the ch-4 corner sp. I preferred this finish.

Note : When I say corner ch-4 sp, I mean the ch-sp that's between the centre two dc 3-tog in each corner. There are four dc 3-tog in each corner, right? So the 2nd and 3rd set and the ch-sp in the middle are the corner ch-sp. Got it?

Round 9 : sc in 1st ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-sp) ;

*rep (to) till the corner ch-4 sp ;

[ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 corner sp ;

ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same corner ch-4 sp] ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

This completes one square. Feel free to work as charted.

To join squares use one of the methods given below (under joining methods)

I'd suggest you use the Join-as-you-go joining method

In case the video does not come on, please visit https://youtu.be/zN3ECWTYXBk

Note : The chart shows a combination of ch-4 and ch-5, but as we are joining motifs, I thought it was way simpler to have ch-5 sps all around.

When joining with ch-4 sp, you will need to work ch 2 + join to next motif + ch 1 and continue work on the motif you are working on - and I feel this is an uneven join

This gives a neat finish and you are joining the motifs continuously as well

If you decide to change direction of leaf while attaching, ensure that you have it facing the way you want before you start attachment.. It's that simple 😊

Joining methods :

You could also decide to work all the motifs and then use one of these methods to join

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

While you could follow the chart to see how many squares you need, I'd also suggest you measure the square to see that the chart works for you.

Layout for squares

Half Squares or Rectangles :

I decided to work a half square as well - and here is what I did for that.

The original pattern does not have any half squares - but I wanted the shoulder bits and also ideas for joining the centre without a lacy finish.

In case you do not wish to have this full closed effect, please ignore the instructions below and continue working just squares.

You can then work a lacy front pattern to make up for any extra round bust/waist requirement.

Start Row 1 : with a magic circle and work 2 dc in it ;

ch 4, 4 dc in the same magic circle ;

ch 4, 1 dc in the same magic circle. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 2, sk next dc , (4 dc ; ch 4, 4 dc) in the ch-4 sp ;

ch 2, rep (to) in the next ch-4 sp :

ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc ;

(ch 2, dc in the next ch-4 sp ;

ch 4, dc in the same ch-4 sp) ;

[ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc] ;

rep [to] once ;

rep (to) once ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 2, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;

(ch 5, dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the corner ch-4 sp ;

ch 4, 3 dc in the same corner ch-4 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;

*[ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc] ;

rep [to] once ;

rep (to) once ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 5 : (dc ; ch 3, dc) the 1st dc ;

{ch 5, dc in the next 4 dc ;

ch 2, dc in the corner ch-4 sp ; ch 4, dc in the same corner ch-4 sp ;

ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc} ;

*[ch 5, sk next ch-5 sp, rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep {to} once ;

ch 5, rep (to) in the last dc. Turn

Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, dc) in the 1st ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the next dc ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;

[ch 4, dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the next corner ch-4 sp ;

ch 4, 3 dc in the same corner ch-4 sp ;

dc in the next dc] ;

{ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc} ;

ch 5, dc in the next dc ;

(ch 1, dc) in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 1, dc in the next dc ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;

rep [to] once ;

rep {to} once ;

ch 5, dc in the next dc ;

(ch 1, dc) in the 1st ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 2, dc in the same dc ; dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2, dc in the same last dc as the last st you worked ;

ch 7, dc in the next 4 dc ;

[ch 2, dc 3-tog in the corner ch-4 sp ;

ch 4, dc 3-tog in the same corner ch-4 sp) ;

ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc ;

ch 7, sk dc 4-tog, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 2, dc in the next dc ;

ch 7, sk dc 4-tog, dc in the next 4 dc ;

[ch 2, dc 3-tog in the corner ch-4 sp ;

ch 4, dc 3-tog in the same corner ch-4 sp) ;

ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc ;

ch 7, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 2 times. Turn

Row 8 : dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 4, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp) ;

{ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc} ;

ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 corner sp ;

[ch 4, dc 3-tog in the same corner ch-4 sp] ;

rep [to] 2 times ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;

ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;

<ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp> ;

rep <to> 3 times ;

rep {to} once ;

ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 corner sp ;

[ch 4, dc 3-tog in the same corner ch-4 sp] ;

rep [to] 2 times ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;

ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;

<ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp> ;

rep <to> once ;

ch 2, sk last dc 3-tog, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Note : Remember that you may have worked only two sets of dc 3-tog in the corner ch-sps and worked two sets of dc 3-tog in the sts from Row 7 IF you copied my idea when working the squares

Once again, remember the Note just before Round 9 about which is the corner ch-sp.

Also remember that when working this last round, we are joining to the front of the jacket. This is especially if you are working the Join-as-you-go method.

Please remember to join in the same way as you have thus far.

The flat edge is the centre front of the jacket.

Row 9 : dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 5, sc 1st ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-sp) ;

rep (to) till the corner ch-4 sp ;

[ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 corner sp ;

ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same corner ch-4 sp] ;

rep (to) till the next corner ch-4 sp ;

ch 5 and dc in the last st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

showing how the squares fall when folded

We will join at all points - and we have ch-5 sps all around - so its simple.

Work ch 2 ; join to the next motif ; ch 2 and continue to work back on the motif you are working on.

This is why I preferred the ch-5 sp all around.

Once you have the front part of the vest complete, you can add on the strappy shoulder bits

Do check that you have a sufficient armhole opening and that the neckline is not too low (dipped) for you

Quick tip : 1) In case you need just a little bit of 'give' for the armhole, then all I'd do is make another row of ch-5 sps along the top edge of the shoulder on both sides of the motifs (on top) and that should work.

2) In case the neckline opening is too low, then you just need to add in a few rows of sc along the top edge before you work in a finishing border

Border pattern :

You could choose to work this pattern around the neckline, armhole as well as base of top if you wish OR you could leave it with a row of sc for a neat finish.

If working a sc finish, then remember to work 2 sc along each horizontal bar of dc all around.

Border pattern

However if you are working this border pattern, here's what you'd do

Re-attach your yarn in any corner ch-sp

Start Row / Round 1 : with sc in the 1st ch-sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-sp) ;

*ch 7, sc in the next ch-sp ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, & join to the 1st st

Let's add a picot in this finishing round

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

In case it does not open, please go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

We'll work a ch-3 picot in the middle of a ch-3 sp. So here's what you do : (work ch 4, sl-st into the 3rd ch from hk, then ch-1) and work the next st in pattern

Row / Round 2 : sc in the 1st sc ;

dc in the ch-7 sp ;

*(ch 1 + picot + ch 1, dc in the same ch-7 sp) ;

*rep (to) 5 times ;

sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next sc ;

sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-7 sp*

rep *to* all around ;

& join to the 1st st

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Instead of the picot edging, you could also end with a row of Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch

In case this video does not come on, please visit https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

Sleeve ideas

Two different ideas - choose what suits you

For the sleeves, there are two ideas you can work on.

1) Work the same motif pattern and join it to the armhole opening. (left sleeve in photo)

2) Add a lacy finish to match the front lapel (right sleeve of photo)

For the motif, you need to work a half square or rectangle (or full square if you want it longer) and then attach it to the end of the armhole

For the lacy finish, I'll suggest working ch-5 sps all around and continue working ch-5 sps till you get the length you need for your sleeve.

Along the edge of the sleeve, I'd then work the same border as I'd work along the front lapels of the jacket.

Try it and let me know what you think.

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