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Thursday 7 November 2024
DIAMANTE CAMI
Have you ever bought a top that you just loved, but then found that the front dips a bit too much for your comfort and so that lovely top lies at the back of your wardrobe?
No more will you have that problem.. not when you make one of these cute little cami covers 😀. One small bit of laciness and your top is transformed into something even cuter. Come along and let's work on this together.
Oh, remember to read all the way to the end to see how to make this into a top or crop top too. In case you want to look at more camis or yokes, come here
With all my patterns, you need to think just a wee bit - but that also allows you to be creative and to use this to make my patterns to any size, using any yarn and a suitable hook.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used 1 ball (60 gms) of Anchor knitting cotton with a 2.5 mm crochet hook
Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work.Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.
For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton.Our lovely Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn
For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
Size made : 8" x 10"
You can make this project to any size.Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
For today's cute pattern we will work a rectangle and then attach a strap and set of press buttons onto the top of this rectangle.
The strap will loop around your bra straps and then you can attach it to the bra strap with the buttons. (i.e. you loop it around the bra strap and then attach the button to secure the cami to the bra)
The lower part of the cami then slips into the neckline and adds a little laciness to your top while also making it demure.
The stitch count for our creation today is in multiples of 11 + 2
This means that you will work in multiples of stitch count for the width of the cami you want. I'd say that you measure the width of your bra straps and then work about 2" short of that. So if your bra straps are 10" apart, you will work a 8" starting row.
For the 'length' (from top to bottom), measure the dip of the neckline and see how much you need to overlap. I'd suggest a minimum of 4" under the neckline of your garment.
There is no button at the bottom to keep it in - so it is suggested to keep a longer length to prevent it slipping out of the neckline.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st fsc ; ch 1, dc in the same 1st fsc ;
*ch 1, sk next 5 fsc, (4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc all in the next fsc) ;
ch 1, sk next 5 fsc, [dc ; ch 1, dc all in the next fsc]*
rep *to* till the end. Turn.
Double crochet 4-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog over 4 sts at https://youtu.be/WjSNi7ithIU
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
*ch 1, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;
ch 4, sc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, [dc ; ch 1, dc all in the next ch-1 sp]* ;
rep to* till end ; dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, 4 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next dc, [dc ; ch 1, dc] all in the next sc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, (4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc all in the next ch-1 sp)* ;
rep *to* till last ch-1 sp ;
4 dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last st. Turn.
Single Crochet : Sc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Row 5 : sc in the 1st st ;
ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;
*ch 1, [dc ; ch 1, dc all in the next ch-1 sp] ;
ch 1, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;
(ch 4, sc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc)* ;
rep *to* till the last st ;
ch 4, sc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 6 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, dc in the same 1st sc ;
*ch 1, sk next dc, (4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc all in the next ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, [dc ; ch 1, dc all in the next sc]*
rep *to* till the last sc ;
dc ; ch 1, dc all in the last sc. Turn.
and that completes our four row repeat pattern.
Rep Rows 3 - 6 for the length you want for your cami
At the end of this row we will make our tie (that go around the bra strap).
Single Crochet : Sc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
1) Work as many fsc as you need to go around your bra strap.
2) Turn and work sc or hdc all the way back to the 1st sc at the end of the cami.
If unable to work a fsc chain, please work as many chain as you need + 2 ; then work hdc in the 3rd chain from hook, and work hdc all the way back tot he 1st sc at the end of the cami.
Note : For your convenience, keep a note of the number of stitches used.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
3) We will now work along the top of the cami and let's work picot stitches
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
If the video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s4) Work 1 sc + picot in the 1st sc (at the end of the cami) ;
*[sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc + picot in the same ch-3 sp ;
sc in the same ch-3 sp] ;
sc + picot in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the other end of the cami ;
then work the fsc at this end of the cami (ensuring you work the same number of sts as you did for the other end) ;
Turn and work hdc all the way back to the 1st st.
work sc + picot all the way along the top to the other end
Work the fsc chain at the other end and work hdc all the way back to finish. Fasten off and weave in ends.
5 ) The final part is just in adding a press button to the ends of the ties. The buttons need just to be place such that they can go around the bra strap and hold the cami in place.
MORE IDEAS :
How to make this into a top : The simplest pattern I'd suggest is to make two rectangles - one each for the front and back.
So I'd start with the pattern and work as many sts as needed (in multiples of stitch count given) for half the round bust or round waist - as always, use the larger measure (i.e. if round bust and round waist are similar, use any measure - but if one of the measurements is higher, then use the higher one to ensure that the top is not too snug).
The first row will be the width of your top.
Then as with the cami, we will work as many rows as needed to get the length of the top.
Once you have the length needed, use one of the joining methods below, join shoulders, leaving a neck opening ; and join sides, leaving an armhole opening.
You can decide to leave this just as it finishes, or look at finishing ideas in any of my top blogs. .....and if you are wondering where to find my tops, come here
This pattern gives a boat-like neckline and a small magyar-like set of sleeves - or drop shoulder sleeves.
How to make this into a crop top : I'd follow the same instructions as given for the top. The only difference would be in the length of the top. A crop top would stop somewhere below the bottom of the bra.
a) Leave the base bit without cinching - but leave it longer than the bottom of the bra (such that it does not go too far up when arms are raised)
b) If you want to cinch or tighten the base bit then you could either work a few rows of sc, decreasing (using sc 2-tog) along the round (ensuring that you keep the waist and bust measurements in mind when decreasing) ;
Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :
Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/whlsMemDHLc
OR you add in elastic for the last round. This will cinch the base without decreasing the stitches.
How much elastic does one need : When adding the elastic the thumb rule is to use slightly over 2/3rd of the round measurement. This means that you will use at least 2/3rds of whatever round you are working on. BUT it also depends on the stretch of your elastic. If you elastic is not too stretchy, then I'd suggest you pull it around yourself and see what stretch works for you and then add 2" to that stretched elastic before you add it on.
Sew / join the two sides of your elastic and make it a round and then add it to your garment - the video below helps.
Working with elastic : https://youtu.be/T5Qc3q2N0ds
How to make this into a kurti or kurta :I'd follow the same instructions as for the top and then work in the decrease for shaping sleeves.
If adding sleeves : I'd work a round of sc around the armhole opening ensuring I have sts in multiples of 8. I would then join to the 1st st with a sl-st.
I would then work the pattern as given but in rounds joining with a sl-st at the end of every round. I would work the pattern for the length I wanted for my sleeve.
Remember that when working that first round of sc, work 2 sc in each horizontal bar of dc and also keep a count of how many sts you work around the first armhole.
Now wasn't this just so much fun?
Loads of ideas.. several beautiful creations can follow.
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