Sweet Nothings Crochet: HEXAGON SARI BLOUSE

Hexagon Sari blouse - free crochet pattern info from Sweet Nothings Crochet

front view back view

A sari is a very beautiful Indian dress that is becoming popular internationally. A crochet blouse for a sari adds to the stunning attire.

Today we have a combination of crochet patterns to create a neat sari blouse.

The front of the sari blouse has a simple plain pattern but there are small hexagon motifs along the back. The sleeves and base of the sari blouse have a lovely light lacy pattern - and you can use any border pattern for this.

This pattern can be used to make a regular (full length) top or a crop top as well.

With this pattern there are so many ideas and possibilities.

Remember to read all the way till the end of this blog to get all these ideas.

Come along..let’s get this cool top done.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 150 gms of an Indian (local) silk yarn with a 2 mm crochet hook

Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work. Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is almost similar in thickness to our Red rose or White rose knitting cottons. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn is a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 38 (L)

You can make this project to any size.

Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Shell stitch : (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Find a sizing chart here : https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/body-size-chart/

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

We work this pattern in two parts - one for the back and two pieces for the front.

You need the round bust, round waist measurement and you will choose whichever is the larger measure for the first row. As we are working back and front separately, we will need half of this round measure for the first row calculation.

You also need the round armhole and neckline depth/dip measurement.

In case you are making this as a general size, check the sizing chart above for general body sizes.

The stitch count is in multiples of 5 + 1

In this pattern, I'd like to work it such that we do not have to line the top - so I'd like to work a flat portion where the bra strap can be neatly 'hidden'. I am therefore going to work tight close stitches - so hdc or sc preferred.

1 : BACK :

I've decided to work my first few rows in hdc so I am starting with fhdc.

In case you are using a slightly thicker thread, I'd suggest you start with fsc or foundation single crochet. Please check just above for the video for the stitch.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) : https://youtu.be/SEG2UCRfypA

Row 1 : Start with fsc in multiples of 5 + 1 for half the round waist / bust measurement. Turn.

Note : In case you wish to start with regular chain, please work in multiples of 5 + 2, and then work the first sc/hdc in the 2nd chain from hook and work sc/hdc all the way down the chain. At the end of your row, ensure that you have multiples of 5 + 1.

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Row 2 : hdc in the 1st 4 fhdc ;

(ch 1, sk next fhdc, hdc in the next 4 fhdc) ;

rep (to) till the end. Turn.

Row 3 : hdc in the 1st 2 hdc ;

(ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the next 2 sts) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Row 4 : hdc in the 1st 3 hdc ;

(hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;

hdc in the next 2 hdc) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Row 5 : hdc in the 1st 4 hdc ;

(hdc in the ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next 4 hdc) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Row 6 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end. Turn.

Now depending on the yarn you are using and the thickness of this strip/strap, you can decide to repeat the pattern once again.

If you are repeating, rep rows 2 - 5.

The only difference is that in Row 2, you are working in hdc directly and not in fhdc - but the pattern wording remains the same otherwise.

Note : Remember that we are going to work some shelled rows below the strap which will add to the length.

Maybe at this point, it's a good idea to fasten off the yarn after Row 6, work on the shelled bit and then decide if you want to work another set of Rows 2 - 5.

You can also decide to leave the yarn (after Row 6) and attach a new yarn to work on the shelled border bit.

Shelled border :

For this, we will turn our work and start working our border on the other side of the fhdc.

Border Row 1 : dc in the 1st fhdc ;

(ch 5, sk next 4 fhdc, sc in the next fhdc) ;

rep (to) till end ;

dc in the last fhdc. Turn.

Border Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;

sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 8 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp)

rep (to) till end ;

dc in the last hdc. Turn.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl- st in 3 rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5 th ch from hook).

In case this video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

I've decided to work a ch-5 picot

Border Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;

*{dc in the 1st dc dc ; (ch 1 + picot + ch 1 + dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 6 times ; dc in the last dc} ;

sc in the next ch-5 sp*

rep *to* till end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Note : In this row you will have 8 dc and 7 picot per shell set.

This is one border set done. You can stop here (as it looks really lovely already, doesn't it?) OR you can work one more set.

To start the second set, we need to work a row of chain.

Border Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;

*(ch 4, sk next 2 picot, sc in the next picot) ;

[ch 1, sc in the next picot] ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 4, sk next 2 picot, dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till the end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Border Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 5, sk next 4 ch-sts, sc in the next ch-st) ;

rep (to) till end ;

ch 5, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Note : Ensure that you have the same number of ch-5 sps as you have at the end of Border Row 1

Border Rows 6 - 8 : Rep Border Rows 2 - 4

Fasten off.

As we end in a picot row, it is a very pretty edging.

and that's our border pattern done. Now we have a better understanding for the length of our blouse till armhole.

We have fastened off and finished this end, so go back to where we were working on the body of the blouse.

Decide at this point if you want to work another set of the body pattern, before we work all hdc to have a flat, less lacy (more covered) back.

If you decide to work another pattern set, rep Rows 2 - 6 for the body pattern.

Hexagon motif :

I have decided to add another little something.. a hexagon motif that will come right in the middle of the back.

So for this, first we make the motif. I have decided to work it all in one color, but go with as many colors as you think work with your base color for sari blouse.

start for hexagon motif - the flower centre

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w if the above video does not come on.

Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and work 1 dc 2-tog in it ;

(ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same magic circle) ;

rep (to) 4 more times ;

ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st / dc 2-tog.

Note : If you find it hard to work with a magic circle and dc 2-tog, work ch 4, for that first circle ; join with a sl-st to close and then work the dc 2-tog round.

Round 2 : Sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp) ;

*ch 1, sl-st into the next ch-sp ; rep (to) once in the ch-sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : Sl-st into the ch-sp between the dc 2-tog ;

7 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

(7 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) all around ;

sc in the last sc ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sc in the 1st 7 dc ;

(sc in the next sc ; sc in the net 7 dc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

hexagon motif slowly forming after flower round

Note : As I am using a very thin/fine yarn and want a little bigger motif, I have used hdc instead of sc all around.

I have, however, written the pattern as per the chart above.

Round 5 : sc in the 1st 3 st ;

(2 sc in the next st ; sc in the next 7 sts) ;

rep (to) all around ;

sc in the last 3 sts ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We have now made the circle into a hexagon.. magical, isn't it?

we can see the hexagon starting to form

Round 6 : dc in the 1st 4 sts ;

(ch 1, dc in the next 4 sts ;

ch 1, sk next st, dc in the next 4 sts) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : while the chart shows ch-1 sps all around in this last round, that did not work for me.. I have used ch-2 sps all around.

Our hexagon motif complete.

As I am using my motif as a show-piece for the back of my blouse, I'd like to get the edging right and I'm going to work a round of sc

Round 7 : sc in the 1st 3 sts ;

(3 sc in the next corner ch-sp ; sc in the next 4 sts ;

2 sc in the next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next 4 sts) ;

rep (to) all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : If you have worked ch-1 sp, that will mean just 1 st in that ch-sp, but I'd suggest you work 3 sc for the corners to get that just right.

Once you have made your motif /motifs, we will attach it to the centre of the blouse and then work around it.

Use one of the methods given below to attach motifs, if you're making more than one.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Find the centre st of your back (on the blouse part), and attach your centre stitch of the hexagon to it, and then attach either side of the hexagon for a perfect centre attachment.

Once you have the motif /motifs made, place them where you want them and attach with pins or markers to hold in place.

We will now work in rows from end to the motif on each side till the motif and then back to the side. Once we complete one side (and reach the top of the motif), we will go to the other side and replicate what we have done for attachment. OK?

I have chosen to work in pattern, but you can work in plain sc, hdc or dc for this section. You can then pick up the pattern once we reach the top of the motif section and continue that way till we reach the armhole and/ or neckline openings.

Attaching the motif/motifs : This is what worked for me - the number of sts you use may differ as it depends on the thickness of your yarn/hook. But using this idea, you can affix your motif / motifs too.

So I worked in pattern till the right hand side safety pin / marker, and on the marked stitch, I worked 7 ch and attached to the motif with a sc. I then turned and worked sl-st all the way down the 7-ch I'd worked till I reached the working row. I have then worked plain hdc in between motif (as the pattern will not show anyway).

The centre of the motif is attached with just an sc and then the side of the motif again is attached with the 7 ch and sl-st all the way down. I did this till the end / last safety pin or marked st and then worked in pattern.

Now working in pattern from the start is easy, but for the last bit, I had to figure it out from the row below and ensured that I had the ch-1 sp about the same place.

From this row on, we will work only one side at a time. When you reach the flat side of the hexagon, attach every row for a strong finish to this motif row.

Once you reach the top of the motif row, work back again in pattern - or in all hdc if the pattern is too fussy to work out.

Here as you can see, I've attached to that ch-7 that was the last work on this side.

Now I'll continue working and attach onto the flat side of the hexagon.

When we reach the top, we can work all the way across. Now to join the tops of the hexagon a sc works. For the lower points, I worked a different stitch.

I worked ch-7 on the bottom, right? So for the top bit, I wrapped my yarn 6 times around and worked whatever this new stitch is - so imagine working a dtrc twice - just keep working through the loops 6 times and then once more to get this long stitch that will equal a ch-7 length. Hope this makes sense. 😁

Work all the way in pattern, till you reach the neckline or armhole (depending on depth of neckline or half armhole measure, whichever measure comes first)

both sides and tops of motifs done - photo 1

detail of top and sides of motif complete - photo 2

How do I know when to stop pattern for the neckline depth or armhole?

You know the length you want for your jacket, right? So let's assume you want a length of 18" from shoulder.

Check round armhole measurement. Let's assume this is 12", so half this is 6"

This means you will subtract this from the length (18 - 6 = 12") and work 12" till you reach the armhole.

Now, here's where you have to check the depth of neckline. In case your neckline is 7", you will subtract 7 from the length (18 - 7 = 11") and one side (which will be neckline deduction) will stop at 11" , and you will work 1" more to start shaping for the armhole.

With shaping both neckline and armhole, remember to keep the shoulder measurement handy. If the shoulder is say 4.5", then we shape till we get that size for shoulder.

Yes, a bit of calculation needed, but the beauty here is that you can use whatever yarn you need - without being stuck to getting one particular yarn as suggested in a pattern.

Right so back to our pattern - we work a rectangle till you reach either the neckline or armhole decrease point. I am just going to give you ideas for both decreases, but you need to work it when you need it (i.e. at the point that you need to decrease).

Back Neckline shaping :

The neckline shaping idea is the same for back and front.

The only difference is that we work a lower neckline for the front and not as low for the back, generally. That said, you could have a similarly low neck for back and front.

Measure the round neck and divide it in half (one half is the back measurement) OR check the neckline measurement from a top that fits you well.

Generally ladies have a neckline measurement of 4".

So this means that you need to first find the centre of your last row and place a marker there. Then place 2 markers 2" on either side of that centre marker. Remove the centre marker.

You will now work till marker and then back to the other side (armhole) and continue thus till you reach the shoulders.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

2 : FRONT :

We work 2 front pieces with the same pattern as for back, but working with half the back measurement.
Repeat all the back instructions for the front, keeping the back as a template for the armhole decrease till you reach the shoulder

While the neckline decrease idea is the same, we work it in two halves for each half of our project - so I've given it to you again.

You will now join sides till armhole.

This is what you do whether you have worked an armhole decrease or not.

In case you have not worked a decrease, calculate half the armhole measurement (which is what you have to do if you were planning on shaping the armhole anyway), and join till that point. Easy enough, right?

3 : SLEEVES :

I've worked the shell (border) pattern along the sleeves.

If you decide on adding sleeves, then you need to start by working a round of sc all around the armhole in multiples of 5

Re-attach your yarn at the bottom of the armhole and work your first round of sc.

Round 1 : dc in the 1st sc ;

(ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in the next sc) ;

rep (to) till end ;

dc in the last sc. Turn.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;

sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 8 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp)

rep (to) till end ;

dc in the last hdc. Turn.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;

*{dc in the 1st dc dc ; (ch 1 + picot + ch 1 + dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 6 times ; dc in the last dc} ;

sc in the next ch-5 sp*

rep *to* till end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Note : In this row you will have 8 dc and 7 picot per shell set.

This is one border set done. Depending on the length you want for your sleeve, you can stop here or continue to work more sets.

To start the second set, we need to work a row of chain.

Round 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;

*(ch 4, sk next 2 picot, sc in the next picot) ;

[ch 1, sc in the next picot] ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 4, sk next 2 picot, dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* till the end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Round 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 5, sk next 4 ch-sts, sc in the next ch-st) ;

rep (to) till end ;

ch 5, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Note : Ensure that you have the same number of ch-5 sps as you have at the end of Border Row 1

Rounds 6 - 8 : Rep Border Rows 2 - 4

Fasten off.

4. NECKLINE BORDER :

Let's work a border all around the neckline. I've worked a round of picot.

I've worked my picot edging only around the neckline, though I've worked a continuous line from the bottom of the front around the front neck, then around back neck, again on other side of front neck and down the other side of the bottom all together. I've left the front and back plackets free as my client plans on lining the blouse.

More finishing Ideas :

1) You can leave it all simple and work a round of sc all around - or several rows of sc all around. This will give it a flat finish. In working the sc rounds, if you decide to work in a button placket, then remember to add button holes on one side.

2) You can work the sc edging and then work picots in the last round. This will give you a cute flat finish as well as a delicate end. I'd work picots every 3rd or 5th st depending on the thickness (or fine-ness) of my yarn. It would also make sense to count the stitches you have and then see what spacing works most evenly for you.

I'd work it such a way that I ensure we have a picot in each centre stitch of each corner.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

In case the video does not come on, please visit https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

3) You can work a few rounds of sc all around and then work a round of crab stitch or reverse single crochet to finish. This would mean that you do not have to calculate number of stitches and yet get a beaded finish.

Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

and that's our beautiful simple lacy blouse all done

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