You could, however, use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this to any size.
In today's pattern I have given you loads of ideas to make this top - fitted , cool and loose or even work it as a crop top.
So come along and let's work on this beauty together.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 200 gms of Milford Soft knitting cotton with a 2.5 mm crochet hook
For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is almost similar in thickness to our Anchor knitting cotton. Our lovely Indian Red Rose or White rose knitting cotton yarn is a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)
For Non-Indians : The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
Size made : 34” (M/L)
This is only given for you to get a rough estimate of yarn requirement.
Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/
Abbreviations used : Using U.S Terminology
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s) yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip sc : Single crochet
Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)
Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.
For this pattern we will start at the base of the top and work our way to the armholes.
Go through this full write up to see what they are before you pick up your hook.
You can make this to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.
With all tops there are a few rules to remember :
1) Measure your round waist, round hips and round bust. Depending on how long you want your top, choose the largest measurement.
What does this mean? If you want your top all the way down to your hips, then check all 3 measurements and if say hips is the largest measurement, then your first row will be half round hip measurement. Got it?
2) You can work your top in 2 ways : either work the pattern as a rectangle all the way from base to the shoulders. You can then join shoulder blades, leaving a neck opening, and the sides, leaving an armhole opening. This will give you a top that has a small 'sleeve' that just falls over the shoulder blades ; OR you work from the base till the armholes and then shape for armholes. Continue this way till you reach the neckline and then shape neckline. Ideas given for this as well.
3) Today's pattern is the same for front and back. We will work one front and one back and the join.
4) Most importantly, ensure that you get the stitch count right. What does this mean? As before, check which body measurement you are using, and then ensure that you have that first start row for the length you need for half the body measurement. So say you need 22" (for half body measurement), then work in multiples of 16 + 1 (for our pattern today) till you have 22".
Let's start
The stitch count for our pattern is in multiples of 16 + 1
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mAStart : with fsc in multiples of 16 + 1. Turn.
Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 5, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till the end. Turn.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_MDouble Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Row 2 : ch 5, sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;
*{(ch 3 + 2 dc) all in the same ch-5 sp ;
sl-st in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep {to} 3 times*
rep *to* till the end. Turn.
Row 3 : ch 5, sc in the 1st ch-sp ;
(ch 3 + 2 dc) all in the same ch-sp ;
[sk next 2 dc, sl-st in the next ch-sp ;
{ch 3 + 2 dc} all in the same ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] once ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3 + 2 dc) all in the same ch-3 sp ;
rep [to] 2 times*
rep *to* till the end. Turn.
Rep Row 3 till you reach the neckline / armhole level.
If you are working the rectangle idea (as I have), then you will work a rep of Row 3 all the way to the shoulders. You will work an identical front and back. Then using one of the joining methods given below, join shoulder blades leaving a neck opening & join sides leaving an armhole opening.
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
1) Add 1 - 2 rows of dc at the base of the top (with elastic). You could do this after you have finished working the full top as well. When you do this, add in an elastic as you work the last 2 rows. Ensure that your elastic is about 3/4ths the round bust (or whatever the round body measurement is at the end point of your top)
Here is how you can work with elastic https://youtu.be/T5Qc3q2N0ds
2) You can add in a tie at the base. Once again I'd suggest you work a few rows in dc. You can actually weave in your tie without making any 'holes' along, but if you want a neat finish then I'd say you work *(dc in 3 sts) ; ch 1, sk next st ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
This will give you a small 'hole' to thread your tie in.
For the tie : You can either work a long row of chain ; or fsc chain or check out the video below
This is the Easiest I-cord pattern https://youtu.be/e_AQ9m0QeZI
3) You could work a picot stitch around the armhole and neckline openings.
For this, first work a round of sc around the opening - remember that we work 2 sc in each horizontal bar of dc and sc in each st all around. I would then work a sc + picot in the 1st st and then (work sc in the next 2 sts and sc + picot in the next st) and rep (to) all around.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
In case the video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Neckline and armhole ideas
Neckline shaping ideas :
1) First decide how low you want it and how wide.
2) Mark the centre for the neckline at the point you want the depth of neckline (the depth of neckline is measured from shoulder - so say you want a 7" depth, when you are 7" from neck, find centre on that row)
3) Place two markers to mark the two sides of centre for the neckline, and remove centre marker.
4) Work from the armhole side till the first marker and then work in pattern back to the armhole.
5) When done with one side, re-attach your yarn to the 2nd marker and work from there in pattern all the way to the armhole to match the level for the other side.
6) It is always a good idea to make notes of whatever you are doing for one side so you can mirror that (work in reverse I mean) for the other side
Armhole shaping ideas :
Today's pattern has neither a neckline or armhole shape, but using this pattern you can make another top as well with both these features.
1) Decide where you are starting armhole decrease. For this measure round armhole and divide in half. So say round armhole is 20", you will start your armhole decreases when 10" from top of your project. Now we are working from bottom of project up, so this begs for a little calculation. Say your project is 20" long, and armhole needs to be at 10" from top, (20 (length) - 10 (armhole) = 10"). This means that when you complete 10" from base of top, you need to start armhole decreases.
2) Sl- st past the 1st 8 - 10 sts ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 sts ; and then work the pattern till the last 10 - 12 sts (depending on whether you slipped past 1st 8 or 10 sts). Dc 2-tog over the 7th / 8th or 10th/11th from end. Turn and work dc in the 1st st and then pattern all the way to the end. Dc in the last st.
Once again I request you to make a note of whatever you are doing for one side so you can map / mirror the other side easily
Once again, use one of the joining techniques given above to join front and back of your top at the shoulders and sides.
Sleeve ideas :
In case you want a sleeve, once you have completed back and front, join shoulders and sides leaving an armhole opening.
Re-attach your yarn at the corner of the armhole and run round of sc in multiples of 16. You can then work the pattern easier all around. Once you have that done, work the pattern in rounds for the length you desire for the sleeve.
Have fun and do remember to share my blog post when you show off your creation.
How to make this a regular length top :
A crop top is just a slightly shorter top than a 'regular top'.
What I would do is work the pattern all the way till you have the length you want.
Once again you could work two large rectangles - one each for front and back - and have a top that gives you a boat-neck like neckline with a small cowl neck and a drop sleeve that lightly drops over the shoulders.
Or follow the instructions for the neckline and armhole shaping and have a shaped top. Again follow instructions to add in the sleeve(s) as well
To make this into a kurti/kurta : The only difference between kurtis and kurtas is the length and fitting of the project. So decide on the length and make a unique creation.
Oh, in case you want that side slit that's unique for kurtas, just start joining for sides a little away from the bottom row (depending on how long you want your kurta opening)
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