Sweet Nothings Crochet: April 2015

A SUPERB SHELLED TOP - a free crochet pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet

This shelled top is a beauty - not only does the pattern work up pretty fast, it's also a pretty easy repeat and the end result will definitely put a smile on your face.

Lately it feels like the faster I work, the faster someone is tempting me with ideas .. oh, I am not complaining at all .. just loving every creative moment.

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I have come on a short trip out of Mumbai, and am with a friend. Their daughter loved the last creation I’d made for my niece, and this is what she has chosen – and of course, I am thrilled to make something new and beautiful… and obviously you agree with me, as here we are..together yet again

Here’s a photo of my inspiration.. just in case this was on your “to-do” list as well… then come along, let's make this together. The inspiration in white and blue and my creation is in fawn/nude/skin colour on the right

Materials used : About ~ 170 gms our local Indian Red rose knitting cotton yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook to make a top for a Size 33 - 34" (chest / bust)

General material info : You can make this pattern using any yarn with a suitable hook, and make it to any size using my pattern instructions. Yarn requirement given is only as a guide for estimation.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology) :

dc : Double crochet

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

sk : Skip
fdc : Foundation double crochet

Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology) :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

or https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/ and

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279848004014

Pattern Instructions (Using U.S terminology) :

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

So as we start off, let’s look at what we’re going to do today with our top.

We start at the base of our top and work upwards towards the armhole and neckline.

So this is a bottom up construction.

We will work one piece each for the front and back and then join at the sides and shoulder to complete.

The designer has not done any major reductions, but has smartly added a thin belt-like cord around the waist that cinches it for shape. The only reductions are for the armhole and then neckline.

The lovely pattern also has two sets of shells – and then for a difference, the designer has alternated colours for the shells to give it the lovely finish.

I am planning on using just one colour for this – as I think that the lovely shells will pop out on their own. So you can now decide .. single or dual colour

The chart given below is just to show you what we are working on - the numbers and wordings are in Spanish.
Please do not worry about the numbers as we are working on a slightly different calculation from this chart- using stitch count multiples.

I am also writing out the color changes in case you’d like to do this with two colours.

In case you are using only one colour, do ignore the instructions for changing colors.

Instructions are the same for single or multiple color.

Here is a video tutorial for the stitch pattern. The small swatch shows you the pattern till Row 5 and then the four rows for the armhole repeat as well. Do pause the video after Row 5, and return to it when you are at the armhole point.

In case the video does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/jKAuBIvfBbM

Our stitch count is in multiples of 10 + 2.

As always I ask you to take the largest measure for your start round measurement - so you will measure your round bust/chest and round waist and use the larger measure. You can work in one single color (as I have) or work with 2 colors.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start (with Main colour) with a multiple of 10 + 2 fdc for half the round bust / waist measurement. Turn.

I, as usual, like to start with a row of fdc – and as I said before, if you’re comfortable with this stitch, then great.. else go ahead and start with the usual chain row.

If working with a regular chain start, then you will add 2 chain , and you will work your 1st dc in the 3rd ch from hook. At the end of your 1st dc row, please count to check you have the right stitch count. Go to Row 1 for pattern.

From this row on we will start with our pattern – and here are our two shell stitches.

Small shell : (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Large shell : (3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

Row 1 : (with Contrast colour) : sc in 1^st 2 fdc ;

*sk next 3 fdc, large shell in next fdc ;

sk next 3 fdc , sc in next 3 fdc* ;

rep *to* till last 5 fdc ;

sc in last 2 fdc. Turn

Small shell : (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Row 2 : (with Contrast colour) : 2 dc in 1^st sc ;

*ch 3, sk next sc and 3 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc and 1 sc , small shell in next sc* ;

rep *to* till last 2 sc ;

2 dc in the last sc. Turn

Large shell : (3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Row 3 : (with Main colour) : 4 dc in 1^st dc ;

*[sc in next ch-3 sp , sc in next sc , sc in next ch-3 sp] ;

large shell in next small shell* ;

rep *to* till last dc ;

4 dc in last dc. Turn

Row 4 : (with Main colour) : sc in 1^st dc ;

*ch 3, sk next 3 dc and 1 sc , small shell in next sc ;

ch 3, sk next sc and 3 dc, small shell in next sc* ;

rep *to* till last 4 dc,

sk 3 dc and sc in last dc. Turn

Row 5 : (with Contrast colour) : sc in 1^st sc , sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*large shell in next small shell ;

[sc in next ch-3 sp , sc in next sc , sc in next ch-3 sp]* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-3 sp ;

sc in the last ch-3 sp ; sc in last sc. Turn

Rep Rows 2 – 5 till your project reaches armhole level ; ending with Row 5.

Now here's where we use that chart given above - for the sizing of top and IF your full length equals that given there, then yaay.. you don’t need to calculate anything.. lucky you.

Else, well, like the rest of us, you’ll get your trusted tape measure out right now, won’t you?

Armhole decreases : So once your project reaches the armhole level, we will need to slowly decrease. Now once again, my trusted trick is to use a well-fitting top (of the person intended) for this.. else we’ll go by the general rule of thumb.. which is a larger decrease in the 1^st row, then a smaller decrease in the next 3 rows.

Decrease Row 1 : sl-st till you’re in the ch-1 sp of the 1^st large shell ;

sc in that 1^st ch-1 sp ;

and then rep instructions for Row 2 all the way till you reach the last large shell ;

sc in the ch-1 sp of that last large shell ; Turn.

You have the first decrease completed.

Decrease Row 2 : sc in same 1^st st ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;

large shell in next small shell ;

and then rep instructions for Row 3 all the way till you reach the last small shell ;

then large shell in that small shell and 1 sc in the last ch-3 sp and sc in the last st. Turn.

Decrease Row 3 : dc in the 1^st st ; ch 3, sc in the ch-1 sp of the 1^st large shell ;

and then rep instructions for Row 4 all the way till you reach the last large shell ;

sc in that ch-1 sp of the last large shell ; ch 3, and dc in the last st. Turn.

Decrease Row 4 : 3 dc in the 1^st st ;
[sc in next ch-3 sp , sc in next sc , sc in next ch-3 sp] ;

and then rep instructions for Row 5 all the way till you reach the st ;

3 dc in that last st. Turn.

Now continue without decreases rep Rows 2 to 5 once again till you reach the neckline.

Neckline decreases :

We have already done one decrease, so you have an idea of what to do. For the neckline, you need to put markers for the following points

a) Decide what shape you want

b) Decide how deep you want your neck

c) You will then mark the two side points for your neckline with markers.

d) You will then start pattern at the armhole and only work till that marked point.

e) You will continue working just these stitches all the way to the shoulder.

f) Once you reach the shoulder, fasten off and re-attach your yarn for the second side of the shoulder.

g) For the back, I have decided to keep it higher and worked all the way to the top.

h) Once you have completed both shoulders, join neatly at the shoulder, using one of the joining techniques given at the top of this blog.

So like you have for the armhole, you will need to decrease for the neck.

The only difference here will be that you will decrease in the centre bit of your top.

So to figure out where you want your decrease(s), what I do is fold my work in half, and mark the centre front and centre backs.

I then decide how deep I want the neckline and then mark that point, which will be deciding point for the neckline decrease.

Few quick decreases and we should have a good curve for our neckline.

You will then continue without decrease in either neckline or armhole sides till you reach the shoulders.

Once you have completed one side of the shoulder, you will fasten off and re-attach yarn for the next side of the shoulder.

This will then complete one side of your top.

You will repeat all instructions till here for the other side of the top, remembering to mirror the armhole decreases, but if you want a different depth for necklines of back and front, adjust that accordingly.

Once done, a simple attachment of sides and shoulders and the beautiful top is complete.

FINISHING :

Use one of the joining methods below

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

So you’ve attached your front and back at the shoulders and sides. I am quite happy with the fdc row at the bottom being the way it is, without embellishments.. but you and your creativity can take it away to another dimension.

I’ve done a quick picot all around the neckline and armholes.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3^rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5^th ch from hook).

In case this video doesn't come on, visit https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

So just to make this an even and neat finish, I ran one round of (ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next st), all around the edges for the first row.

Now as the areas we’re working on are curved, there are some places where it will be difficult to figure out where you have 2 sts (that you need to skip).. so basically you work a ch 2 , sc evenly all around ... and as long as its all even and neat, that’s good.

The picots then will neatly go into the ch-2 sps.

The picot I used is a (ch 3, sl-st into the 1^st ch) all around, and to get them neatly spaced, I worked *picot in the 1^st ch-2 sp ; ch 1, sk next sc and picot in the next ch-2 sp* all around, joining with a sl-st at the end.

This picot pattern is done around the neckline as well.

If you so desire, you could actually do this around the baseline fdc row too.. just sk 2 fdc and picot in the next fdc.. you could also do the ch-2, sl 2 fdc, sc in the next fdc for a start row, and then (like you have done here) ; do the picot in the ch-2 sps. The only tricky part is getting your ch-2 sps.. i.e in case you run out of an fdc, just play with the calculations a bit and adjust it such that you end with a ch-2 sp evenly.

Fasten off.. weave in all ends... and then block as per your yarn instructions.. and c’est tout. You have yet another brilliantly beautiful top all made .. ready for the night in town

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too