Sweet Nothings Crochet: August 2022

LEAF TOP

Perspective .. It's everything isn't it? When we crocheters see this pattern, we'll think pineapple - when my client saw it she saw leaves.. and called this a Leaf Top.

With this pattern there are so many ideas and possibilities - including making this into a crop top. Remember to read all the way till the end of this blog to get all these ideas. Come along..let’s get this cool Leaf top done.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 300gms of an Indian Koton knitting cotton yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work. Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 34 (M)

You can make this project to any size.

Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Find a sizing chart here : https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/body-size-chart/

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

This is not my pattern. I found the chart here.

However there are no notes, so here are mine as I work on my project.

For your convenience I have cut pasted the charts from that blog.

Layout for the blouse or top

Layout for squares and border

Today’s pattern is made using the granny squares and its a beautiful leaf like pattern made with pineapples. The square starts at a corner instead of the centre.

Before we jump into making our squares, let's get a few calculations out of the way.

a) We need round bust, round waist and round hip measurements.

As always, please use the largest measurement for your calculations

b) We also need round armhole and sleeve length if you are making sleeves

c) We need depth of neckline for front & back if you are going to keep them at different lengths / heights

d) Finally as always I suggest you keep a well fitting top that you can use as a draft

We start making the first square and measure the length (well its a square so length or breadth works). That will help us decide how many squares we need to get the half round bust/waist or hip measure.

The length of top is slightly simpler as we just keep working and adding squares till we get the length needed.

Easy enough. Let's start.

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Start Row 1 : with a magic circle and work (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) in it.

Pull lightly to close but do not join. Turn

Row 2 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

Row 3 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 3, dc 2-tog in the next dc ;

ch 5, dc 2-tog in the same dc) ;

ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 4 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 3, sk dc 2-tog, 9 dc in the ch-5 sp) ;

ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 5 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 7 times ;

ch 2, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

Row 6 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 4, sk next dc, sc in the ch-1 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

ch 4, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 7 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 4, sc in the ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

ch 4, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn

In the following rows we'll decrease to finish our square

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Note : You may want to place a marker in the 1st and last sts (dc 2-tog) after completion for ease of marking these corners

Row 8 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;

ch 4, sc in the ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

ch 4, dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn

Row 9 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 3, sc in the ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 10 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 11 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 12 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 13 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 14 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;

sk next sc & 2 dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn

Now without a break, we will work all around our square with a lacy border

we will work around along the horizontal bars of the dc.

Turn and sl-st into the centre of the 1st st (i.e. the centre of the 4 dc you just worked - remember as we have worked on this set , we will skip it when I say next dc)

Round 15 : (2 dc ; ch 7, 2 dc) all in the 1st dc ;

{[2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc all on the horizontal bar of the next dc] ;

sc in the horizontal bar of the next dc } ;

*rep {to} 2 times ;

rep (to) in the corner st which is the point where you start your dc 2-tog decrease ;

sc in the horizontal bar of the next dc ;

rep {to} once* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st

This completes one square.

While you could follow the chart to see how many squares you need, I'd also suggest you measure the square to see that the chart works for you.

Overview of one side of top with motifs attached

To join squares use one of the methods given below

I'd suggest you use the Join-as-you-go joining method https://youtu.be/zN3ECWTYXBk and here is how I'd suggest you work

We will join at all points - so you have two corner ch-7 sps and three centre ch-3 sps along each side.

For the corner ch-7 sp join : Work ch 3 ; join to the next motif ; ch 3 and continue to work back on the motif you are working on.

For the corner ch-3 sp join : Work ch 1 ; join to the next motif ; ch 1 and continue to work back on the motif you are working on.

This gives a neat finish and you are joining the motifs continuously as well

If you decide to change direction of leaf while attaching, ensure that you have it facing the way you want before you start attachment.. It's that simple 😊

You could also decide to work all the motifs and then use one of these methods to join

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Border pattern :

You could choose to work this pattern around the neckline, armhole as well as base of top if you wish OR you could leave it with a row of sc for a neat finish.

If working a sc finish, then remember to work 2 sc along each horizontal bar of dc all around.

You could also end with a row of Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

Border pattern

However if you are working this border pattern, here's what you'd do

Re-attach your yarn in any corner ch-sp

Start Round 1 : with [3 dc ; ch 3, 3 dc] in the chosen corner ch-sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-sp) ;

*ch 3, [3 dc ; ch 3, 3 dc] in the next ch-sp ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, & join to the 1st st

Round 2 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 2 dc in the ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ;

*ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, & join to the 1st st

Let's add a picot in this finishing round

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

In case it does not open, please go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

We'll work a ch-3 picot in the middle of a ch-3 sp. So here's what you do : (work ch 4, sl-st into the 3rd ch from hk, then ch-1) and work the next st in pattern

Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;

*(sk next dc , ch 1 + picot + ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 1 + picot + ch 1] in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] 2 times in the same ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] in the next dc ;

rep (to) once ;

sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;

sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

& join to the 1st st

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note : My client wanted a square neckline and the above pattern worked easier into a round one - so I altered my end result to get what my client desired.

Border around neckline

Close up of how I made it a square necked top

My client wanted a square neck - so I worked that after the border and used picots for further embellishment

Sleeve ideas

Border around neckline - I felt it looked "U" shaped

Close up of sleeves showing attachment using Join-as-you-go method

Attach sleeves using the Join-as-you-go method

For my sleeves, I've worked the same motif pattern and joined it to the armhole opening. In my case I needed only 3 squares for the sleeve round. I attached 2 squares from shoulder down and for the third, I ensured that when I had joined my sides, I had half a square on both front and back, which I then joined to the 3rd square of my sleeve.

How to make this into a crop top :

The difference between a regular top and a crop top is the length of the top.

So first you decide the length of the crop top. Then work two squares that are length from shoulder to length of crop top. For this just go ahead and keep making and attaching the square motifs till you have the length you need from shoulder to base of top.

Then using one of the joining methods given (again, I'd suggest using the Join-as-you-go method) join the two sides leaving an armhole opening, and join the shoulders, leaving a neck opening.

This pattern will work with a loose as well, and finish, where the neckline is a largish opening - and the smallish sleeves will lightly and gently flop over the shoulder blades.

Try it and let me know what you think.

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