WELL TIED CROP TOP
This easy pattern is a rectangle worked into a tied crop top.. and then we add these gorgeous shelled patterned sleeves to create one lovely well tied crop top.
I've worked this is some soft cotton - just perfect for summer, don't you agree?
With all my patterns, you need to think just a wee bit - but that also allows you to be creative and to use this to make my patterns to any size, using any yarn and a suitable hook.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used 1 ball (100 gms) of Vardhman Cotton Dreamz knitting cotton with a 4.5 mm crochet hook Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work. Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.
For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton. Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn
For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
Size made : 34” (M/L)
You can make this project to any size. Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.
Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level.
Stitches used :
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
trc : Treble / triple crochet
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This pattern has an unusual construction. It is worked from the top to bottom and we work a rectangle which we will make into a cool bustier
The beauty of this pattern is hat you can work this with any stitch - sc / hdc or dc, depending on the thickness of your yarn and how quickly you want to finish it 😆
My yarn is quite thick and I am working with a 4.5 mm crochet hook.
Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) : This is an easy way to start a row of hdc without the starting chain row.
Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/SEG2UCRfypAFoundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
You can start with a fsc / fhdc or fdc chain depending on whether you are working with sc / hdc or dc for your garment.
Start Row 1 : with as many sts as you need for the 'length' of your garment / bustier - from neckline to base of top. Turn.
I have chosen to work in hdc, so started with fhdc
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Row 2 : hdc in the 1st st and in each st till end. Turn.
Read Note below before going ahead
Rep Row 2 till you are two row short of the round bust / round waist (whichever is the larger measurement - remember that this is meant to be a tight snug fit and that your yarn has a bit of stretch, so account for all of that)
In our last row we will work a chain-link pattern into which we can pass a cord to scrunch up the bustier.
Note : You could choose to work the last 2 rows of chain link pattern in the middle of your bustier. This means that halfway through your project (i.e. half round bust measurement), you can work this pattern. This way you will get it in the centre front of your work. This is slightly complicated as it involves calculation.
For the slightly easier version, work the full measurement (i.e. full round bust /chest measurement) and then work the chain link pattern in the last 2 rows.
Last 2 Rows : hdc in the 1st 2 sts ;
*(ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the next st) ;
hdc in the next 2 sts* ;
rep *to* till the last 2 sts ;
hdc in the last 2 sts. Turn
Fasten off and leave a tail for joining.
Use one of the joining methods given above to join the 1st and last row of the bustier.
Part 2 : Making the tie
You then need to make a tie. The tie needs to be double the length of your bustier plus about 4".
Easiest I-cord : https://youtu.be/e_AQ9m0QeZI
You can either use the easiest I-cord pattern OR work a fsc chain for the length you need OR work a length of chain and work sl-st all the way back.
Choose what works for you.
You will pass this through the chain link pattern from the bottom to the top along one row, and then from the top back to the bottom along he 2nd row you've created.
Scrunch the bustier by pulling it a little.
Part 3 : Shoulder straps
I have some ideas for straps
Keeping the scrunched part in front, mark whee you want your shoulder straps for both sides.
Re-attach your yarn at that point and work either a fsc chain or regular chain for the length you want for your shoulder strap.
Join to the back of your work (assuming you started with the front of work. Needless to say ensure that you work one side at a time and join correctly - i.e. right side or left side)
1) If you want to keep it simple, work 2 rows of sc along this chain and fasten off.
2) If you want a shelled pattern, then ensure that you have multiples of 5 for the length of your fsc chain.
(sc in the 1st st ; sk next st , 5 dc in the next st ; sk next st, sc in the next st) ;
rep (to) till end.
3) For a multiple shelled pattern :
We need multiples of 7 for this pattern.
Row 1 : (sc in the 1st st ; sk next 2 sts , [4 dc ; ch 1, 4 dc] all in the next st ;
sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st) ; rep (to) till end ; Turn
Row 2 : 4 dc in the 1st sc ;
{sl-st and join to the top row} ;
(sc in the next ch-1 sp ; [4 dc ; ch 1, 4 dc] all in the next sc) ;
rep (to) till end ; Turn
Note : {When joining to the top row, just attach where convenient. The top row does not have sc, so I cannot indicate where to attach.
This applies for all attachments to this row. If you wish a fanned finish, attach closer, so hat the shells then fan out}
Row 3 : (sc in the 1st st ; [4 dc ; ch 1, 4 dc] all in the next ch-1 sp ;
sc in the next sc) ; rep (to) till end ; Turn
Depending on how wide you want this strap, rep Rows 2 & 3.
As said before, decide if you want it fanned or not.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rep for the other side
4) Once again we have a shelled pattern, that needs a multiples of 5 for the length of your fsc chain.
(sc in the 1st fsc ; ch 6, sk next 4 fsc, sc in the next fsc) ; rep (to) till end. Turn
Next row : sl-st into the 1st ch-6 sp ; sc in the same ch-6 sp ; (ch 6, sc in the next ch-6 sp) ; rep (to) till end. Turn
Last row : sc in the 1st ch-6 sp ; (10 dc in the next ch-6 sp ; sc in the next ch-6 sp) ;
rep (to) till end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Part 4 : Making adjustable back straps /corset ties
I thought it would be a good idea to make back straps so that we can adjust the crop top for different chest sizes.
The idea is to make a set of holes through which you can thread a strap like you lace up your shoes.
To do this you need to work one row of 'holes' (like we did for the front).
The only difference is that we need to work the hole rows at least 4 - 5 rows apart.
This means that you work one row of holes, then 4 - 5 roles of all hdc stitches and then another row of holes.
When you lace in the back strap, you can scrunch it up to fit.
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