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Sunday 15 May 2022
OASIS TOP
OASIS TOP
The ubiquitous granny square strikes again giving birth to this Oasis Top ! This naughty combination of skin colored & luxurious turquoise yarns brings out the best in this easy pattern.
Yes I know.. where is the skin colored and turquoise top? This is one time I made an huge error. I gave away the (skin colored and turquoise) top without photos and am now still waiting for them - so just to share this pattern with you, I've had to make a second one. Is this dedication or what eh? ๐คจ ๐
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Materials used : Today I’ve used one ball (about 65 gms) each of two colors of unbranded knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
Note : Amount of yarn needed for individual project(s) depends on size of yarn / hook, size you are making it for as well as the tension with which you work.Amount given here is only for rough estimation for the size I’ve made it for.
For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton.Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton , Red rose or White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn
For Non-Indians : This yarn is similar in thickness to Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
Size made : 34” (M/L)
You can make this project to any size.Size here given only for rough estimation of yarn.
Single Crochet : Sc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.
For this pattern we will make a few granny squares that will make the front and back centres of your top. If you are making it for a narrow chest, you will need 2 rows across (and as many as you want for the length of your top - for a cropped top, you will use less) - which also means that if you are making it for a wider chest, you can add one set of rows for the width and then as many as you need for the length
You also need to decide (& measurements you need) before you start :
1) Length of top (front and back)
2) Round chest measurement
3) Depth (or dip) of neckline
4) Round armhole measurement
You can make this project to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.
There are two parts to this creation : 1) Creating the granny squares and putting them together and
2) working the simple pattern along the sides for the width of your top
I will not indicate color changes as that will mar your creativity ๐
Double Crochet : dc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.One dc made.Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Start Round 1 :with a magic circle and work 2 dc in it.
(ch 1, 2 dc in the same magic circle) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 1 & join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Remember that if you are changing colors, change a the last stitch
Round 2 :3dc in the 1st ch-sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same 1st ch-sp ;
(ch 1, 3dc in the next ch-sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 1 & join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 :sl-st into the 1st ch-2 corner sp ;
3dc in the 1st ch-sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same 1st ch-sp ;
*ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, 3dc in the next corner ch-sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-sp)* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 1 & join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 :3 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 1, 3dc in the next corner ch-sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-sp)
[ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 1 & join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 :3 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
[ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp] ;
*(ch 1, 3dc in the next corner ch-sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-sp)
rep [to] 3 times* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 1 & join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 6 :3 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
[ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp] ;
*(ch 1, 3dc in the next corner ch-sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-sp)
rep [to] 4 times* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 1 & join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
This is our first basic granny square finished.
1) Measure this block / square.
2) Calculate how many squares you need (across) for the width of your garment front and back ;
3) Calculate how many squares you need (top to bottom) for the length of your garment front and back
4) Remember that we are making these blocks only for the centre of the top. (or if you see the photo, its across front and across back only - from one armhole to the other)
Make as many granny square blocks as you need for the across front and back.
Use one of these methods to join the squares together.
I've used the join as you go method but choose whichever works for you.
This completes the front and back centre portions of your garment.
We will now work only for the sides, and shape the sides slightly for a singlet-like or strappy finish
PART 2 : SIDES
We've now create the sides, and then join the front to the back
The sides are made with all sc / hdc or dc stitches up and down.
As we're all working different sizes, I'm going to give you ideas but not actual stitch count.
1) Place your prepared granny squares onto a well fitting top. I always suggest that you take a non-stretch top for this part. I also suggest that if you get a good fit with one top, make a paper draft of that, so you can use it for all future projects
2) Using the top or paper draft, you will start shaping the armhole. We re-attach the yarn at the bottom corner of the last granny square (at base of top) and work till the top end of the armhole. I would suggest you work a 2-tog stitch to get a good armhole shape (So that means a sc 2-tog , hdc 2-tog or dc 2-tog, depending on which stitch you are using for he sides)
Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :
Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/whlsMemDHLc
Half double crochet 2-tog : hdc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp] (3 lps on hk) ; insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all 4 lps on hk. One hdc 2-tog made.
3) Please keep a note of the number of stitches you work on each side for each row, so you can easily replicate it for the other side of the front as well as back
4) Work with alternating colors (if you re working in 2 colors) for a striped finish.
Again, let your creativity fly.
5) Shoulder strap : Work 1 row / round (or 2 rows / rounds) along the armhole edge. Start at one armhole and work a continuous row / round from armhole past shoulder strap to the top of garment, past the other shoulder strap to around the other armhole and back.
6) To finish, work 1 (or 2 rounds) along the bottom edge of the garment for a neat finish.
7) You may want to work a pebbled edge - in which case the Crab stitch or reverse sc is a great idea.
How to work the Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : In case the video tutorial does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk
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