Sweet Nothings Crochet: SUNFLOWER DOILY

Sunflower Doily - a free crochet pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet

The Sunflower doily is one interesting pattern that I've worked using some soft 3-ply yarn and a 1.5 mm crochet hook. The pattern is a bit complicated in parts but I've given loads of photos and the explanations are very exhaustive to make it easy to work on. Come along and join me as we work on this fantastic creation.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used 50 gms unbranded 3-ply knitting cotton cotton with a 1.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e knitting cotton as well

General yarn info : Today’s yarn is not specific for this pattern.

For this project, use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Difficulty level : Advanced

Stitches to use : Using U.S terminology

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Instruction information Using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for a video tutorial on all the stitches needed to make this full project.

Please read through all my detailed notes before you pick up your hook.

This helps you get an idea of what we’re creating and what notes / videos to look out for.

Inspired by the chart below, these are my notes while I make my creation.

Note : In this pattern, I can add a bead in the last round. In case you do, then here's what you need to figure out now. There are (16 x 8 = 128) ch-sps in the last round. So go ahead and add 128 beads or decide if you want to add beads only onto every alternate ch-sp and a picot in each alternate ch-sp and add beads accordingly.

Video for picot stitch will be given just before the last round.

How to add beads : https://youtu.be/EcpgMgBox8I

How to work with beads in crochet : https://youtu.be/yanbAnF_pr0

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and work 16 dc in it.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Now Round 2 has a very long stitch - which is 9-st long, for which we wrap the yarn 8 times around and work a stitch. You can decide if you want this long a stitch, or just work a dtrc.

Either stitch will work and not change the pattern. Wrapping the yarn 8 times will just make it lacier.

For convenience I'll write dtrc and you decide what you want to work in that place.

Double Treble /Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One dtrc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Round 2 : ch 10 ;

(ch 5, dtrc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : If you want to wrap the yarn 8 times, you will work 14 ch for the 1st st.

Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs

Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp , 6 trc into the 1st ch-5 sp ;

6 trc in the next ch-5 sp and in each ch-5 sp all around ;

and join to the 1st st with a sl-st.

Round 4 : sc in the 1st st ;

*ch 4, sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around till the last 2 sts ;

ch 2 + dc and join to the 1st st with a sl-st

Note : This puts you in the middle of that last ch-4 sp.

In case you are not happy doing this, work ch-4 and join to the 1st st, and then sl-st into the 1st ch-4 sp to start.

Round 5 : sc in the 1st ch-4 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-4 sp)

rep (to) all around ;

ch 3 + dc and join to the 1st st with a sl-st

Note : This puts you in the middle of that last ch-5 sp.

In case you are not happy doing this, work ch-5 and join to the 1st st, and then sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp to start.

Round 6 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp)

rep (to) all around ;

ch 3 + dc and join to the 1st st with a sl-st

Round 7 : ch 8, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp)

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 8, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around till the last 3 ch-5 sps ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 3 + dc and join to the 1st st with a sl-st

In the following rounds, we will work with trc.

You may use dc as well (in all places where the pattern reads trc) and it will make no difference - but your doily will be a bit smaller.

Round 8 : ch 2, (5 trc ; ch 3, 5 trc) all the 1st ch-5 sp ;

*ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp]

rep [to] once ;

ch 2, (5 trc ; ch 3, 5 trc) all the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around till the last 2 ch-5 sps ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 3 + trc and join to the 1st st with a sl-st

Round 9 : ch 2, trc in the 1st trc ;

*(2 trc each in the next 3 trc's ; trc in the next trc) ;

[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, trc in the next trc] ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 2, trc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3 + trc and join to the 1st st with a sl-st

Triple / Treble crochet 2-tog : trc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ;

{yo, insert hk in next st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; draw through 2 lps on hk} 3 times. One trc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0y4BbgDTbs shows you how to use the trc 2-tog to decrease

Or if you have used dc all through, you need to work a dc 2-tog now

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, yo insert hk in next st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Round 10 : ch 3, trc 2-tog over in the 1st 2 trc ;

(trc in the next 6 trc's ;

ch 7, sc in the next sc ;

ch 7, trc in the next 6 trc ;

trc 2-tog over the next 2 trc)

*ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 3, rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2 and join to the 1st st with a sl-st

You are now in the centre of that last ch-sp

In the following round, it's very complicated to write out the stitch formation that comes between the trc sets. So I'm going to try to explain this extra long dtrc via a video

In case this video does not come on, please go here on You Tube

Double Treble /Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One dtrc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

As we're working a ch-3 picot in the middle of a chain, here's what I'd do.

(Ch 6, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk) and rep (to) 2 more times then ch 3 and carry on with the pattern.

Round 11 : sl-st till the 1st trc ;

*(dtrc 2-tog over the next 2 trc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

dtrc in the same next trc ;

ch 2, rep (to) 3 times ;

dtrc in the next trc ;

[ch 3 + picot] ;

rep [to] 2 times ;

ch 3 ; extra long dtrc in the next sc ;

4 dtrc in the top of the extra long dtrc ;

rep [to] 3 times ;

ch 3, dtrc in the next trc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round, we're going to work a 4-tog over the 4 dtrc

You can work a dc 4-tog or a trc 4-tog or a dtrc 4-tog over these stitches. The pattern reads dtrc 4-tog. The video below shows you a trc 3-tog. For a 4-tog you just work it over that 4th st as well and then draw all together.

Triple / Treble crochet 3-tog : trc 3-tog : https://youtu.be/O8HM5j8ZXHw

Round 12 : dtrc 4-tog over in the 1st 4 sts ;

[ch 3 + picot] ;

rep [to] 3 times ;

*ch 3, sc in the next dtrc ;

ch 7, sk next 3 sts, sc in the next dtrc ;

rep [to] 4 times ;

dtrc 4-tog over in the next 4 sts ;

ch 5, dtrc 4-tog over in the next 4 sts ;

rep [to] 4 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 5, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We are the left end of the last ch-5 sp. We need to be in the centre of that ch-5 sp.

So what I've done is turn my work and sl-st to the centre of that ch-5 sp. The turn again to start.

Once you are in the centre, we can start.

Round 13 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;

[ch 3 + picot] ;

rep [to] 4 times ;

*ch 3, 9 sc in the ch-7 sp ;

rep [to] 5 times ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

rep [to] 5 times* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We're in the centre of the last ch-sp and we start right here.

We will also work a whole set of the extra long dtrc again.

Once again, if you find this stitch hard or unnecessary, please choose to work a regular dtrc.

Round 14 : ch 19 (i.e. that reads as 10 + 9) ,

[3 extra long dtrc in the next sc] ;

rep [to] 8 times ;

*ch 9, sk next 5 picot sts, dtrc in the next sc ;

ch 9, sk next 5 picot sts, rep [to] once ;

rep [to] 8 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 9 and join with a sl-st to the 10th st in that 1st ch-19.

Now we'll work a round of ch-5 sps all around

Round 15 : sl-st past the 1st 2 ch in the 1st ch-9 sp , sc in the 3rd ch ;

*(ch 5, sk next 4 ch, sc in the next ch) ;

[ch 5, sk next ch and dc, sc in the next dc] ;

{ch 5, sk next dc, sc in the next dc} ;

rep {to} 5 times ;

<ch 5, sk next dc and ch-sp, sc in the next ch-sp> ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* all around till last 4 sts ;

ch 3 + dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round we will work a ch-5 sp plus work 2 ch-4 and 1 ch-6 sp in each ch-5 sp. Yes, awfully confusing.

So for this we will work this half flower pattern

Half flower pattern : {ch 7, sc in the 5th ch from hk ; ch 6, sc in the same 5th ch ; ch 4, sc in the same 5th ch ; ch 2 and sc in the next ch-5 sp}

Round 16 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

*work half flower pattern {to} 9 times ;

rep (to) 4 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3 + dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round we will work only in the four ch-sps that do not have the half flower pattern. In this we are going to wrap yarn 5 times around the hook, so a stitch that is 6-ch long.

The first st will be a ch-6 and then each following st will be this other stitch- I do not know if there is a name to this stitch, so lets call it a 6tr for the purpose of this pattern.

Now as you can see on the full chart above, these are the only four ch-sps we will use for this round. In between these we will work ch-53. Let's go.

And to complicate the pattern further, we're working a 6tr -tog over 4 ch-sps.

In the first round we will work ch 6 + two 6tr over the next 3 ch-5 sps and the end with a 6tr and join it all together.

Round 17 : ch 6 + two 6tr over the next 3 ch-5 sps ,

(ch 53 ; 6 tr-tog over the next 4 ch-sps) ;

rep (to) all around till the last ch-5 sp ;

6 tr in that ch-sp and join to the 1st st.

Round 18 : sc in the 1st st (over the 6tr tog) ;

(sc in the next 53 ch ; sc in the next st) ;

rep (to) all around and join to the 1st st.

Round 19 : sc in the 1st st 3 sts ;

*(ch 9, sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st) ;

rep (to) 15 times ;

sc in the next 5 sts* ;

rep *to* all around till the last 2 sts ;

sc in the last 2 sts.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note : In the last round, I've worked ch-5 all the way around, instead of ch-9 sps

and we're all done.. How beautiful is this, eh?

Block as needed according to yarn instructions.

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