Sweet Nothings Crochet: SKIPPY JACKET

This lovely one-row pattern repeat for a child's hooded jacket is one you should really try. This jacket can be made to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook. I am using our (Indian) Oswal Cashmilon acrylic yarn with a 3.75 mm crochet hook.

Check out this matching blanket as well here

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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 100 gm of Oswal Cashmilon acrylic 4-ply yarn with a 3.75 mm crochet hook.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e or unbranded knitting cotton as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size made : 6 to 9 months

You can make this to any size. Size only given for rough yarn estimation.

Abbreviations used : Using U.S terminology

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

fdc : Foundation double crochet

dc : Double crochet

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Children’s sizing chart : http://www.childrenssizechart.com/

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing : here or here

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing : here or here or here

Instructions : Using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

This is the second project with a similar pattern. Here is the other pattern

Let’s as usual start with our quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.

We will work 6 rectangles : one for back ; 2 for front ; 2 for sleeves and one for hoodie. We can work in dc or hdc (depending on the thickness of yarn and the size you are working for). The pattern is worked from top to bottom (or vice-versa) for the length of the rectangle, and then we work the width of the rectangle needed.

The start row of our rectangle for the back & fronts will be the length of the jacket from shoulder to base and we work our pattern along the width of half chest measurement.

So for back left hand side is the start row and we work till we have half the chest measurement. The two fronts are half the back measurement.

Measurements needed :

1) Full length of jacket (from shoulder to base of jacket)

2) Full length of sleeve (from shoulder to wrist)

3) Round chest

4) Round armhole

There are five parts to this creation, so let's start.

I found this chart that really helped me get my measurements.

Check out this one, or this one as well

PART 1 : BACK

Make one piece

As mentioned before the start row of our rectangle for the back & fronts will be the length of the jacket from shoulder to base and we work our pattern along the width of half chest measurement. So for back left hand side is the start row and we work till we have half the chest measurement.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 4 + 2.

Note : If you decide to start with regular chain, start with chains in multiples of 4 + 5, and then turn around, and do your 1^st dc in the 3rd ch from hk, and then follow pattern of Row 2.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start Row 1 : (with Color 1) : with fsc in multiples of 4 + 2 for the length of your jacket from shoulder to base of jacket . Turn.

Note : I started with 50 fsc for my 6-9m creation

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 2 : (with Color 1) : dc in the 1st 2 fsc ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next 2 fsc* ;

rep *to* end. Turn.

Change color

How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Row 3 : (With Color 2) : hdc in the 1st 4 sts ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 sts, work dc in the next 2 skipped sts from the row below* ;

rep *to* the last 4 sts ;

hdc in the last 4 sts. Turn.

Row 4 : (With Color 2) : hdc in the 1st 2 sts ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 sts, work dc in the next 2 skipped sts from the row below* ;

rep *to* the last 2 sts ;

hdc in the last 2 sts. Turn.

Change to Color 1

Row 5 : (With Color 1) : hdc in the 1st 4 sts ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 sts, work dc in the next 2 skipped sts from the row below* ;

rep *to* the last 4 sts ;

hdc in the last 4 sts. Turn.

Row 6 : (With Color 1) : hdc in the 1st 2 sts ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 sts, work dc in the next 2 skipped sts from the row below* ;

rep *to* the last 2 sts ;

hdc in the last 2 sts. Turn.

Change to Color 2

Rep Rows 3 and 6 for the width of project - which is half chest measure.

PART 2 : FRONT

Make two

For the fronts, we will do the same pattern as for the back. We will work half the width needed for front (or half whatever width you have worked for back)

Fasten off and leave a long tail to join.

Repeat this for the other side of the front as well.

If you’ve decided (as I have) to keep this sleeveless, then finish off with one round of sc all around the armhole, else continue onto Part 3 for sleeves

PART 3 : SLEEVES

Make two

Check out this chart for easy sleeve sizing references

For the fronts, we will do the same pattern as for the back and fronts.

PART 4 : JOINING

We have made one back, two front pieces and 2 sleeves. So let's put it all together and join using one of the methods given below.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

1) Fold the sleeves in half and place a marker in the folded centre. This is where you will join the sleeve to the shoulders.

2) Join shoulders, leaving a neck opening. (Check the charts for shoulder sizes for children. I joined 4.")

3) Place the marker (of sleeve) at joint shoulder and attach sleeve to back and front.

4) Join the sides and then continue down the arm of the sleeve to finish in one continuous movement.

The back, front and sleeves are now attached. Now we can work on the hoodie

PART 5 : HOODIE

Note : I started with 40 hdc

The pattern for the hoodie is exactly the same as that for the back, fronts and two sleeves.

All I did differently at the end was work in a row of spaces to thread in a ribbon.

Read through how to calculate for the hoodie and then check the last row finishing at the end

We start the hoodie with the round neck measurement.

This requires a little bit of calculation.

Now with my patterns I give you a bit of calculation to do, but that also means that you can make this to any size (including a full sized ladies jacket), so that's fun, isn't it?

As you have attached front and back, you can now measure the round for hoodie. This goes from the left front lapel, around the back of the neck and down to the right front lapel - as that's how our hoodie is going to sit.

Once you have that measurement, you need to measure your front and sleeve start, so that you can gauge how many sts you need for the hoodie start.

What does this mean? Say you started with 32 sts for front (30 + 2 as per stitch count), and you got a measurement of 8", and your round hoodie measure is also 8", then you got it - you start with 32 sts for the hoodie too.

I made this in several baby sizes and I found that the calculation given above has worked. This may work for baby sizes, but will not work for older child and adult sizes - for that you will need to work the calculations given above.

I found this chart below also was a good one for hoodie calculations. See what works for you.

We work the hoodie as a rectangle and then attach it to the neck.

The photos below are to show you how to work the hoodie and then attach. These are photos from my first hooded jacket here and not this one - which is why the photos are not of this pattern.

with fold on right side, sew the opening

make a rectangle for the hoodie ; fold in half & with folded side on right, sew opening

the little triangle that will be the hoodie

this is how you need to attach the hoodie

this triangle becomes the hoodie and this is how it will be placed on the neck

join the hoodie to the top of the jacket

use pins to hold the hoodie in place and sew it neatly on - to get this finished look

2nd Last row : Work hdc in the 1st 2 sts ;

(ch 2, sk next st ; hdc in the next 2 sts) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn

Last row : Work sc in the 1st st and in each st and ch-sp till end.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

the hoodie attached to the jacket

PART 5A : HOODIE-TIE

Note : I have made a hoodie-tie but you could always weave in a ready-made satin ribbon.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

How to make tassels : https://youtu.be/Ct84H8iBa9s

For my tie, I just worked a fsc chain for the length I wanted.

I then added tassels at the two ends

front showing placket and hoodie with tassels

For today's pattern, I have worked a combination of off-white and sunshine yellow for my jacket, but worked the hoodie in all yellow - and this is how it looks finished.

PART 6 : FINISHING

The final bit is the finishing.

Once again I'll give you loads of ideas and you work whatever is good for you.

I have worked a large placket for both sides and then worked a loop row for buttons.

My plackets overlap each other - so I have a big button with loop on one side and I've attached press-buttons inside for a better finish and closure

both plackets with buttons and press buttons

1) Remember that boys buttons are on the right side of jacket ; girls are on the left. So depending on which gender you are making it for, work your button loops accordingly

Re-attach your yarn at the bottom left hand side (for boy jacket) of placket front.

Linen Stitch : https://youtu.be/ui2s0V-dGPg

2) We will work our placket in Linen stitch.

Work sc in the 1st st ; ch 1, sk next st, sc in the next st ;

(ch 1, sk next st, sc in the next st) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

3) sc in the 1st st ;

sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, sk next st, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

(ch 1, sk next st, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Rep 2) and 3) till you have about 2" or the width you want for your placket.

Check the video above for this stitch.

4) In our final row, we will work the button loops. So first decide how many buttons you want and place markers on your placket for where you need to work loops.

We start with our first button loop on the top of the placket.

Sc in the 1st st ;

[ch 3 (or as many ch as needed for your button depending on size of button)] ; sc in the next st ;

sc in the next sts till marker ;

rep [to] ;

rep this all the way till the end of placket ;

fasten off and weave in ends.

5) Re-attach your yarn for the second side of placket and work 2) and 3) rows all the way to the end till you have the width you want.

6) Overlap the plackets, mark and attach the buttons. As mentioned above, I sewed in a set of press buttons for better closure as well.

Now in case you do not want a crossed-over placket, here's the idea for a simpler placket that I used for my other hooded jacket.

1) Re-attach your yarn somewhere along the bottom row, back of jacket and work a row of hdc till the end ;

2) work 1 hdc + 2 sc in the corner st and turn to work along the placket ;

3). Work a button loop along one placket (for girls buttons are on left side ; for boys buttons are on right side - so loops will be the opposite side - video below)

4). Work a round of sc around the placket, adding loops for buttons. So work from the bottom left hand side of placket, around the top of the hoodie and then down the right hand side ;

5). Work 2 sc + 1 hdc at the right hand side bottom and then continue working hdc along the base and join with a sl-st to finish.

6). Add in your buttons and your cute hooded baby jacket is ready to use or gift.

Once again, the photos below are from the earlier hooded jacket and hence the pattern is different.

Finish edges and add loops for buttons along placket

work a row of finishing and add on button holes / loops as needed

SLEEVE FINISHING :

I have not worked any finishing around sleeves, and it looks lovely like this too.

You could decide to work the linen stitch along the sleeve as well to match the plackets.

Whatever pattern you decide, I can guarantee that the recipient will be really happy. So have fun, enjoy and spread smiles.

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