Sweet Nothings Crochet: CUTE COLLARED BABY JACKET

Cute Collared Baby Jacket - 2 : free crochet pattern info from Sweet Nothings Crochet

This lovely one-row pattern repeat for a child's collared short-sleeved jacket is one you should really try. And then there's a very cute little beanie to go with it.

This jacket can be made to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook. I’ve used some Oswal Cashmilon acrylic 4-ply yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook (photo on the left) as well as Nako Saten yarn using a 4mm crochet hook (on the right). At the end of this project, you also learn a new stitch 😆 so come along and check this out now.

I love this pattern so much that I've decided to make a matching beanie as well - and do check this out too. Oh here are two hooded jacket patterns here and here and the first cute collared baby jacket pattern here

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Inspired by this picture that I saw on some Pinterest board, which conveniently has a chart, here are my notes as I make my own project.
May I request you to please read through all my detailed instructions for each section. I take a lot of trouble in giving loads of information, so read along and make a great project. Cheers.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about 80 gm of Oswal Cashmilon acrylic 4-ply yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e or unbranded knitting cotton as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size made : 0 - 3 months

You can make this to any size. Size only given for rough yarn estimation.

Abbreviations used : Using U.S terminology

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

fdc : Foundation double crochet

dc : Double crochet

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Children’s sizing chart : here

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing : here or here

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing : here or here or here

Instructions : Using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Let’s as usual start with our quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.

We will work 3 rectangles : one for back & 2 for front. We then work in the sleeves and finally work the collar. We can work in dc or hdc (depending on the thickness of yarn and the size you are working for). The pattern is worked from top to bottom (or vice-versa) for the length of the rectangle, and then we work the width of the rectangle needed.

The start row of our rectangle for the back & fronts will be the length of the jacket from shoulder to base and we work our pattern along the width of half chest measurement.

So for back left hand side is the start row and we work till we have half the chest measurement. The two fronts are half the back measurement.

Measurements needed :

1) Full length of jacket (from shoulder to base of jacket)

2) Full length of sleeve (from shoulder to wrist)

3) Round chest

4) Round armhole

There are TWO methods to creating today's project.

A) Easy Pattern : We make two fronts ; 1 back ; then attach sides and shoulders and add in the sleeves and collar : OR

B) Advanced Pattern : We make one continuous body that starts at the front centre (lapel) till the armhole ; then we work in an armhole opening and continue working the back ; the we work the 2nd armhole opening and continue around to complete the other front till the front centre (lapel). We then attach just the shoulders and work on the collar and then the sleeves.

I am giving ideas for both - and you do what works for you.

Note : As I am working the B) Advanced Pattern that will be the first set of instructions. Instructions for A) Easy Pattern are given immediately as we finish our continuous pattern. Don't worry.. this will make sense as you read through.

I found this chart that really helped me get my measurements right

Check out this one , this one and this one too

PATTERN IDEA "A" : Easy Pattern & PATTERN IDEA "B" : Advanced Pattern

This first section is common for both Pattern Idea A and B.

PART 1 : FRONT

You can work either in hdc or dc. I have worked in fhdc to start and then dc for the body of my jacket.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 3 + 2.

Note : 1) If you decide to start with regular chain and work in hdc, start with chains in multiples of three + 3, and then turn around, and do your 1^st hdc in the 2nd ch from hk, and then hdc in each ch till end. You will then work Row 2.

2) If you decide to start with regular chain and work in dc, start with chains in multiples of three + 4, and then turn around, and do your 1^st dc in the 3^rd ch from hk, and then dc in each ch till end. You will then work Row 2.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) : https://youtu.be/SEG2UCRfypA

Start Row 1 : with fhdc in multiples of 3 + 2 for the length of your jacket from shoulder to base of jacket . Turn.

Note : I started with 41 fhdc for my 0-3 month old

Remember that if you are using a heavier / thicker yarn, you will end up with a project for a slightly older child.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

In our full pattern we will work a dc 2-tog but with a twist.

1) Our dc 2-tog is worked over 3 sts ; 1st leg in 1 st ; sk next st and 2nd leg in the next st - so the dc 2-tog has a st in between, so I'm going to call this our Split Dc 2-tog

2) Our dc 2-tog is worked with the 1st leg in the same st as the last st to give it a thicker look and a really soft fluffy feel.

3) So when I say "Split dc 2-tog over the same last st, skipping the next st and into the next st" ,it's again over 3 sts, but the 1st leg of the dc 2-tog is in the same sp as the last st , then we sk the next st and the 2nd leg is in the next st. Once again 3 sts used, with 1 st in between. Got it? See photos below

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st fhdc ;

*sk next fhdc, Split dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ;

ch 1, Split dc 2-tog over the same last st, skipping the next st and into the next st* ;

rep *to* till last st ;

ch 1, dc in the last fhdc. Turn.

starting Row 2 and ending of Row 2

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, Split dc 2-tog over the ch-1 sp, sk the next dc and into the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till last dc ;

ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

dc in the 1st st ; 1st leg of the Split dc 2-tog ; yo, work 2nd leg of the Split dc 2-tog over the next ch-1 sp

yo and pull through to finish 1st Split dc 2-tog ; first Split dc 2-tog complete

ch 1, start next Split dc 2-tog ; yo, 2nd leg of Split dc 2-tog in the next ch-1 sp

finish next Split dc 2-tog

Working Split dc 2-tog into the last ch-sp ; Split dc 2-tog in the last ch-1 sp

ch 1, dc in the last dc Row complete

and that's our pattern done !

Rep Row 3 till you have the width you need for the front.

Continue in pattern till you get the width for front & pattern detail

length measured from shoulder to base of jacket

Last row : hdc in the 1st st and in each st till end. Turn

Fasten off and weave in ends. One front complete in the Easy method. Make a 2nd front in the exact same method.

In case you are continuing in the Easy pattern, ignore Pattern Idea B below and scroll through till you see PART 2 : BACK : Pattern A : Easy Method

PATTERN IDEA "B" : Advanced Pattern

If you have decided to join me in this idea, then here's where the slight difference starts.

You will work the above pattern till you have the width you need for back but do not work the last row of hdc in each row. We will continue in pattern for the armholes now.

I am making a 0-3m jacket, so as per size chart I need a width of 22cm for half round chest (i.e 11 cm for each front and 22 cm for the back).

As you see in the photo below, I'm at 11cm so stop at this point and we'll divide for armhole.

Remember this is Only for Pattern Idea B.

measure width of front = 1/4 round chest measure

when you reach the width needed for front, divide for armhole

Armhole break : Work in pattern till you reach 1/2 round armhole. Leave remaining sts. Then cast on (or work fsc) for the number of sts you have left unworked. Join the fsc chain to the last st with a sl-st. Then continue to work in pattern till your work is half chest measure. Remember to count the number of sts (or Split dc 2-tog sets) before you continue. This is the back of the jacket.

What does this mean ? Take your round armhole measurement and divide in half OR check the chart above. For a 0-3m, armhole is 10cm from base. So you work in pattern till you are 10cm from the base and then stop working and leave remaining sts unworked.

0-3m measure 10cm from base and then stop pattern, (leave sts unworked)

Then cast on (or work fsc) for the number of sts you have left unworked ; and join with a sl-st

Then continue to work in pattern till your work is half chest measure - which is the back of the jacket

This is half round chest = back of jacket

continue till you have width for front - same as first side

Once again work 10cm from base and leave sts unworked. Add the fsc chain and continue in pattern till you have width for front - same as first side

2nd front complete

Once you complete the 2nd front section, work 3 rows of hdc (for that side front placket - make it wider if you want), ending at the neckline edge.

At this point, sl-st past the 1st few sts till you are at the point that we need to join for shoulders. Once again, to figure out this point, check the chart above for shoulder width for the jacket size you are making.

Join shoulders. Fasten off.

We have now completed two fronts and one back for our continuously made little jacket. We now need to work on the sleeves and collar.

The pattern for sleeves and collar is the same whether you chose this continuous pattern or the Easy version that has 3 rectangles.

Scroll past this next section that does not apply for Advanced pattern - till you see Part 3 , 4 & 5 for sleeves , front placket & collar.

PART 2 : BACK : Pattern A : Easy Method

Make two

For the two front parts, we will do the same pattern as for the back. We will work half the width needed for front (or half whatever width you have worked for back)

Fasten off and leave a long tail to join.

Repeat this for the other side of the front as well.

If you’ve decided (as I have) to keep this sleeveless, then finish off with one round of sc all around the armhole , else continue onto Part 3 for sleeves

Before we head off to make sleeves, let us join the two sides and shoulders, leaving an armhole opening and a neckline opening.

Use one of the methods given below to attach

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Part 3 (Sleeves) and Part 4 (Collar) are the same for both patterns.

PART 3 : SLEEVES

Make two

For the sleeves, we will do the same pattern as for the back and fronts.

Check out this chart for easy reference on sleeve sizing

Sleeves worked in the round

Round 1 : Work a round of sc all around the armhole opening, ensuring you have sts in multiples of 3. Remember to work the sc evenly all around. Keep a count of the stitches you work around the first armhole for convenience.

Note : In case you are making this for a girl and want a puffed sleeve, work extra sts in the shoulder area of the sleeve. This means that you work extra sts only around the centre top of the sleeve, but remember to keep the stitch count in mind. Instructions for puffed sleeve are after this set of instructions.

The pattern we use is the same as for the body of the jacket but we need to shape the sleeve a bit.

Round 2 : dc in the 1^st sc ;

*sk next sc, Split dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ;

ch 1, Split dc 2-tog over the same last st, skipping the next st and into the next st* ;

rep *to* till last st ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, Split dc 2-tog over the ch-1 sp, sk the next dc and into the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till last st ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rep Round 3 for the length you want for your sleeve.

I have worked a total of 6 rounds for a 3-6 m old

Sleeve complete. You may want to run a round of sc or hdc all around.

In case you are working a puffed sleeve for a girl then you work the same pattern you have worked for the body of the jacket and work it for as long as you want the puffed sleeve.

In the last round, work in sc and add in elastic. This is the thin elastic that is used when stitching in. In case this does not work for you, then you can add in the slightly thicker elastic by sewing it in by hand. Note that the thicker elastic does catch on the baby's arm so the crochet version works better. Check the video below.

Working with elastic : https://youtu.be/T5Qc3q2N0ds

PART 4 : FRONT PLACKETS

front placket

For the Advanced Pattern :

We have worked one side of the placket before we joined shoulders.

Re-attach yarn at the other front end and work 2 rows of hdc (or as many as you have for the other side). Fasten off and weave in ends.

For the Easy Pattern :

Attach yarn at one end of the front placket and work at least 3 rows of hdc on both sides of the front open edge to make your button placket. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Work hdc all the way down from the top of placket to the base, keeping count of how many sts you use (so you can replicate for the other side)

Remember which side over laps for boys and girls and sew in press buttons accordingly.

IN CASE YOU ARE USING BUTTONS AND BUTTON HOLES :

The only difference here is that you need to pay attention to which side buttons are added (different for boys and girls) and work button holes in the other side of the placket. For girls buttons are on left side ; for boys buttons are on right side - so loops will be the opposite side - video below

To work the button holes, first decide how many buttons and what size of button you're using. Then work the side of placket that you will be attaching buttons onto so you can count sts between buttons. Once you have decided this, you need to work button holes on the other placket

placket detail showing collar finish and button holes

For the button hole side of placket :

1) work 1 hdc in the 1st st ; ch 2, sk next 2 sts, hdc in the next st (this is the 1st button hole). Work hdc in each st till the marked st (which is where you are going to place the next button) ; and work this all the way till the end of the placket.

2) Work hdc in each hdc and 2 hdc in each ch-2 sp all the way to the end.

3) Work hdc in each st till end. Fasten off

Another easy way to work this is to work loops on one side and button on the other

Once again decide on the buttons (size and placement) and work the placket pattern as given. In the last row we will work a button loop along one placket. For this, work hdc in the 1st st (neckline edge) ; ch 3, sl-st in the same 1st st (one button hole loop made) ; hdc in each st till the marked st (which is where you are going to place the next button) ; and then ch 3 and sl-st in the same st (next button hole loop made) ; repeat this till the end. Fasten off.

PART 5 : COLLAR

We have the body and the sleeves done with a neck opening. Let's start the collar

With the front facing you, re-attach yarn at the right placket corner.

Leave both sides of placket unworked for collar so that the collar then closes well after buttons added in

Note : We do not work on the placket - those 3 (or as many rows as make your placket) are left unworked and we attach the yarn in the st just after the start of placket. This way the plackets will overlap one another and the neck will close neatly with the collar

Row 1 : Work 2 sc in the corner st and then 1 sc in each st all around till the other corner ; work 2 sc in the 2nd corner st. Turn.

Note : Ensure that you have multiples of 3 + 2 when done. In case you need to add sts, add them in the centre back of jacket.

Now 5 rows in pattern for the collar. We're using the same pattern as we did for the body and sleeves - which you know very well by now. The only difference is that we will work a small increase at the start and end of each row. This gives the collar that shape we need.

Row 2 : 2 dc in the 1st sc ;

*sk next sc, Split dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ;

ch 1, Split dc 2-tog over the same last st, skipping the next st and into the next st* ;

rep *to* till last st ;

ch 1, 2 dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 3 : 2 dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, Split dc 2-tog over the ch-1 sp, sk the next dc and into the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till last dc ;

ch 1, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 4 : Rep Row 2

Row 5 : Rep Row 3

This is the right size for 0 - 3 m.

If working a larger size, rep Rows 2 & 3 till you are at the length you need for your collar. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Same jacket pattern using Nako Satin yarn

I made this same pattern using Nako Saten yarn and a 4mm crochet hook too and see how lovely that looks as well

OPTIONAL IDEAS

The original idea was to use one solid color, but I decided to use two colors and using the exact same pattern, I just worked 2 rows per color and I loved this end result too.

How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

If you are working two rows at a time, then all you need to know is how to change colors seamlessly at the end of every second row.

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

But if you decide you want to change colors every other row, you will need to know how to carry your yarn with you and then this video helps.

The other idea in using 2 or more colors is by ensuring that you have a good color combo first (this is specially when you are trying to use up bits of yarn). Then you just work the pattern all the way till you finish one color and then attach the next one.

MATCHING BEANIE

The top part of our beanie will be simple hdc in the round and then we work the same pattern that you now know so well for the lower part of the beanie. We will work the pattern in the round, just as you have with the sleeves.

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and work 12 hdc in it.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12 sts)

Round 2 : 2 hdc in the 1st st and in each st all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24 sts)

Round 3 : hdc in the 1st st ;

(2 hdc in the next st ; hdc in the next st) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 sts)

Round 4 : hdc in the 1st st and in each st all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 sts)

Round 5 : hdc in the 1st 2 sts ;

(2 hdc in the next st ; hdc in the next 2 sts) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48 sts)

Round 6 : hdc in the 1st st and in each st all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48 sts)

Measure the circumference of your cap. At this point mine is just what I need for a 0-3m old

We will now start our pattern rounds like we did for the sleeve.

Pattern Round 1 : dc in the 1^st hdc ;

*sk next hdc, Split dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ;

ch 1, Split dc 2-tog over the same last st, skipping the next st and into the next st* ;

rep *to* till last st ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Pattern Round 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, Split dc 2-tog over the ch-1 sp, sk the next dc and into the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till last st ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rep Pattern Rounds 1 & 2 for the length of the beanie.

Last round : hdc in the 1st st and in each st all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

OPTIONAL IDEAS :

In case you want to add more than one color, this is what it could look like

I basically kept similar colored yarns - or yarns/colors that would work together and then worked each color batch - without mixing and matching every alternate row and this worked too.

Remember to check out the video on how to seamlessly change colors when using more than one colored yarn at https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

And this was a sleeveless jacket - and this looks so cute too

another idea for a baby jacket - a hooded jacket

and do check out the pattern I used to make this jacket here

the jackets and beanies I made for the charity using the Cute Collared Baby Jacket - 2

and this was also a set that I've made for charity using this pattern 😊

Whatever pattern you decide, I can guarantee that the recipient will be really happy. So have fun, enjoy and spread smiles.

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