Sweet Nothings Crochet: BANDH-GALLA JACKET

This is a really pretty & simple pattern and the end result is very light and lacy. Today I've used some Phildar Charly acrylic yarn with a 4mm crochet hook, but you could use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this lovely pattern.

"Bandh-galla" is a Hindi word that means 'closed at the neck' , otherwise known as Chinese collar or Mandarin collar. With this creation, you can decide to make this bandh-galla neckline or work without it as well. Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest and for more of jackets and boleros come straight here

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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 200 gms of this interesting 4-ply acrylic Phildar Charly yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a crochet chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

So let’s take quick look at what we’re doing today

We make three rectangles - one for the back and two for front. We then attach the rectangles - sides, leaving an armhole opening and shoulders.

We the re-attach the yarn at the armhole to make our sleeves and make a small standing 'collar'.

Measurements needed :

1) Round bust /chest

2) Round waist

3) Round hips (if you want the jacket to go up to hips)

4) Round armhole

5) Full length (or length you want for the jacket)

6) Sleeve length

We work all the rectangles (for the front & back) starting at shoulders and working down to the length needed. So our pattern stripes are vertical from top to bottom or vice-versa.

Simple enough? Let's start.

Oh, I ended up with a pattern because of an error 😆. I made it to a certain length and then thought I wanted it a bit longer - so worked on an 'extension' (of about 3") later. In case you want this 'effect' then work till you are about 3" or about 7 rows shorter than the length you want. As you are probably using a different yarn from mine, your 3" may be different from mine - so you may need to work a swatch and measure the width of 7 rows before you start. Or just work 3" shorter than your needed length and then repeat the pattern for as many rows as you need to get the 3"

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial
https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

BACK : (Make one)
Start Row 1 : with as many fdc in uneven numbers as needed for the length of your jacket from shoulders to base of jacket. Turn.

Note : Make a note of the number of sts you start with

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

What is a crochet chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Row 2 : hdc in the 1st st ;

(ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the next st) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 3 : dc in the 1st st ;

(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next st) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

and that's our pattern done !

Rep Rows 2 & 3 till you get the width needed for half round bust or chest.

If you are working this till the waist, you need to check both half chest/bust and half waist measurements and use whichever is the larger measure.

So say your half bust is 20" and your half waist is 22", you will work the back till you are at least 22 - 23" in width.

FRONT : (Make two)
Start Row 1 : with the same number of sts as you did for the back. Turn.

Row 2 : hdc in the 1st st ;

(ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the next st) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn

Row 3 : dc in the 1st st ;

(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next st) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Once again we're done with the simple 2-row pattern. Rep Rows 2 & 3 till you are half the width of the back ; ending with Row 3.

We now have three rectangles all done. Use one of the methods given below to join the sides and shoulders.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

OPTIONAL : BASE OF JACKET :

As mentioned at the start, I worked on a length and then thought I wanted it a bit longer, so added a few inches at the bottom. Now our pattern through the top of our jacket is worked vertically - but once I had attached the front and back, I worked in a round, and that pattern is worked horizontally. Here is what I did for this 'effect'

Start Base Row 1 : by re-attaching yarn at the bottom of jacket. Work 1 dc in each st / ch-sp all around. Ensure that you have an uneven number when you finish. Turn.

Base Row 2 : hdc in the 1st st ;

(ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the next st) ;

rep (to) till 3rd last st ;

ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the last st. Turn

Base Row 3 : dc in the 1st st ;

(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next st) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn

Rep Base Row 2 and 3 till you have the (extra) length you want for your jacket. As mentioned before I worked till I had about 3" = total of 7 rows. Fasten off and weave in ends.

SLEEVES : This pattern does not necessarily need sleeves - as we've worked in rectangles, the shoulders fall lightly over and it looks cute sleeveless as well.

However, here's how you work in sleeves.

We will work the sleeves as one piece in rounds, joining with a sl-st to end.

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Once you have joined the sides and shoulders, you have an armhole opening.

Re-attach the yarn at the bottom of the armhole.

Sleeve attachment : as the pattern is worked in rounds, it appears seamless

Round 1 : Work a round of dc all around the armhole, ensuring you have an even number of sts to finish. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : hdc in the 1st st ;

(ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the next st) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st st ;

(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next st)

rep (to) all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

That's our simple sleeve pattern done. Rep Rounds 2 & 3 till you are at the length you want for your sleeves, ending with Round 3.

OPTIONAL IDEAS :

There is a small decrease that you could work in to get a slight curvature to the top of the sleeve and a better fit.

Half double crochet 3-tog : hdc 3-tog : https://youtu.be/E-WbOP531a4

Round 4 : Decrease round : hdc 3-tog over the1st 3 sts ;

(ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the next st) ;

rep (to) all around till the last 3 sts ;

hdc 3-tog over the last 3 sts ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : Non - decrease round : dc in the 1st st ;

(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next st)

rep (to) all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

I think one decrease should suffice to cinch the sleeve but I suggest you wear the sleeve and see if you think you need to decrease once more

Once you have completed your decrease rounds, rep Rounds 2 & 3 till you are at the length you want for your sleeves, ending with Round 3.

FRONT PLACKETS :

We need to add a row of dc /hdc or sc to the front placket.

Remember that for girls/ladies, buttons are on the left side when the jacket / blouse is facing outwards and for boys/men buttons are on the right hand side.

So if you are making loops or button holes, pay attention to this.

You do not need to worry as much if you are adding press buttons that get hidden under. That said, if you are working the bandh-galla then once again you need to pay attention as the top flap needs to be worked in the same direction as the button closure. (see photo on top)

For my buttons, I worked a loop (when working that last finishing row around the two fronts and along the top of the hook) that went around my buttons.

In case this video does not come on, visit https://youtu.be/oocVo-ZNIcM

BANDH-GALLA NECKLINE :

We will work by attaching the yarn on the right hand side placket after working a small chain (which will be the top left side facing you - when you are working - but needs to be the right side when worn)

Depending on how thick your yarn is and how long you want the flap, you will add chain.

Start Row 1 : with as many chain as you need for the flap (extension) , then join to the right hand side top of neckline/placket and work 1 sc in each st / ch-sp all around till you reach the other placket (left side). Turn.

Row 2 : hdc in the 1st st and in each st till end. Turn

Rep Row 2 for the height you want for your stand-up collar.

As you can see I worked only 3 rows in total - but the number of rows depends on the thickness of you yarn and how "tall" you want this collar.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

I have attached press buttons at the bottom.

SIMPLE NECKLINE :

You do not need to have a bandh-galla neckline. If you want a flat neckline, then just work a round of sc all around and maybe a crab-stitch or reverse single crochet for a beautiful pebbled look

Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

and this is our beautiful Bandh-Galla Jacket all done

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Here are some of my other creations.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/05/shankh-bolero-plus-scarf.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/04/makadee-bolero.html