This really simple creation can be made as a vest as well as a top.
Diagonals.. and shells.. what a superb combination! How can one
resist this, right? So I didn’t even bother resisting! When
this pattern dropped onto my lap last week, I just knew it was a ‘to-be-done’
pattern!! So here we are…
Thank you for joining me.
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Cheers. Enjoy
Materials used : Stylecraft
Baby 4-ply yarn ~ 200 gms ,
with a 4 mm
For Indian yarn users :
Stylecraft Baby 4-ply yarn is somewhat similar to our Vardhaman Baby soft or Vardhaman Millenium.
This yarn is not specific for this pattern. You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make it to any size.
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
Size made : 32-34”
Gauge : One
shell (across) = 0.7” x (high) = 0.5”
The size and gauge are only given for yarn estimation.
Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced
The stitches used are easy enough but there are calculations and mirroring that need skill.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :
https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a crochet chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over trc : Treble Crochet
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
fpsc : Front Post Single
Crochet
trc 3-tog : Treble
Crochet 3-together
trc 2-tog :
Treble Crochet 2-together
Instruction information Using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all rows with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.
Please also check the top of this blog for neat video tutorials of all stitches used in today’s pattern sheet. For your convenience, video tutorials are also added right where we will use them.
Please go through the full instruction sheet before you start, so you get an idea of what we’re doing. Cheers.
This is not my original pattern and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net. I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.
This pattern starts at the waist and calculating the width (around waist / chest) measurements, you work all the way up to the armholes.
There you decrease for the armholes and neckline and voila! You’re done!
The back portion is simpler as the pattern is only on the front!
Now while all this sound pretty simple, there are a few complications thrown into the mix.. just to jazz it up and the project .. so be ready for a bit of a roller coaster ride. It’ll totally be worth it!
PART 1 : FRONT
We start with the left
front.
To make the right front, you will work the mirror image of this pattern.
The stitch count is in multiples of 15 + 4
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start with
34 fsc in multiples of 15 + 4 for half the front measurement.
Note : The round measurement is divided by 4 to get the half front measure, and this is a cm or inch measurement. You will then ensure that you get this measurement by working the stitch count given.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Row 1 : sc
in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 3, sk 2 fsc, sc in
the next fsc* ;
rep from *to* till
end. Turn.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 1, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Front post single crochet : fpsc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch on the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fpsc at https://youtu.be/OQa8YLpkdXs
Row 3 : sc
in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) twice* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 3, sc in the last dc.
Turn.
So we’ve finished our
first row of shells.
Our next row of shells
will move one ch-3 sp.
So let’s see how we get
that done.
Row
4 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp
;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) twice* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 1, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Row 5 : sc
in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 3, sc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 6 : dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 1, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Row 7 : sc
in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the last dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc
in the 1st sc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ending with the 5 dc ;
dc in the last sc. Turn.
Row 9 : sc
in the 1st dc ; fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
sc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 10 : dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.
Row 11 : sc
in the 1st dc ;
*ch 3 , sk next
sc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 3, sc in the last dc.
Turn.
So you’ve probably now
figured how our shells are moving diagonally.
The shells are separated
by three ch-3 sps, and every fourth row there’ll be one added from the
end.
I’ll take you through a few more rows and then we can go off and
work it till our armholes.
Row 12 : dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.
Row 13 : sc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
*ch 3 , sk next
sc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 3 times*
;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 1, sc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 14 : dc
in the 1st sc ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
rep (to) once ;
ch 1, dc
in the last sc. Turn.
Row 15 : sc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
*rep (to) once ;
ch 3 ,
sk next sc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ending with one rep of
(to) and then the last ch 3 and sc in the last dc. Turn.
Rep Rows 6 – 15 till
your project reaches length needed till armhole ; ending with a Row 6.
I started my armhole
decreases after two repeats, with length of ~ 14.5”.
As you’ll see from
pattern, it is really simple now.. you just continue with the shelled patterns
till completion, but do not start any new shells .. cool,
right?
What a smart designer .. hat’s off!!
PART 2 : ARMHOLES
Armhole decrease row 1 :
[sc in 1st sc ; sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc ;
2 sc in next ch-3 sp
; sc in next sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3 , sk next sc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the last dc. Turn.
(This is part of Row 7)
Armhole decrease row 2 :
dc
in the 1st sc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 2,
sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once ;
2
sc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.
(This is part of Row 8)
Armhole decrease row 3 :
sl
st in 1st 2 sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next sc ;
ch 1, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next
dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 3 , sk next sc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ;
sc in the last dc. Turn.
(This is part of Row 9)
Armhole decrease row 4 :
dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.
Armhole row 4 :
sc
in the 1st dc ; ch 3 , sk next sc, fpsc in the next dc
;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 3, sc in the last dc.
Turn.
Armhole row 5 :
dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 1, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Armhole row 6 :
sc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) 3 times.
Turn.
Armhole row 7 :
dc
in the 1st sc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sk next sc , dc in
the last sc. Turn.
Armhole row 8 :
sc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3 , sc in the last
dc. Turn.
Armhole row 9 : (Neckline
decrease row) :
sc in the 1st sc
; 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc ;
ch 1, 5 dc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Armhole row 10 :
sc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
sc in the last dc. Turn.
Armhole row 11 : dc
in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 3, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Great so we’re done with
our shelled patterns and diagonals.. from now on till the shoulder line,
we’re just going to do our ch-3 patterns.. and we’re almost done with one part
of your vest !!
Yaay.. that was quick, was it not?
Next row : sc
in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 1, sc in last dc.
Turn.
Next row : dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sc in last dc.
Rep the last 2 rows till
your project is of the right length – your armholes are the right size and the
neckline fits too.
Fasten off. Weave
in ends.
Work a mirror image of
this front for the the right hand side of your work.
The back is really easy.
It’s all ch-3 sps all through.
Tip : If
you are planning on using a border (as I have) along the front plackets, then
do this border first, and recalculate the width of the front before starting on
the back.
I say this, as the placket adds to the width of your project.
PART 3 : BACK
(Make one)
Start with
double the number of fsc for the front using the same multiples count.
I say "double the
number" as we had two front pieces and only one back - so basically you are working with half waist measure here.
Row 1 : sc
in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 3, sk 2 fsc, sc in
the next fsc* ;
rep from *to* till
end. Turn.
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the 1st ch-3 sp
;
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, dc in last
sc. Turn.
Row 3 : sc
in the 1st dc ;
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sc in last
dc. Turn
Rep Rows 2 & 3 till
you reach the armhole point for the front.
Follow the decrease for the
armhole as for front.
The designer has not reduced anything along the
neckline, but if you so decide, around the last 2 rows from end, you could
divide your work in half, count off the a few ch-3 sps evenly from centre and
not work on them – so you get a little bit of a neckline along the back.
Fasten
off. Weave in ends.
BORDER
There
are two borders in this pattern.
The simple one that goes around the
armholes and neckline and down the front placket is a hdc or dc evenly spread
all around.
You would, of course, first join your sides and shoulder
blades and then work the hdc or dc around the armhole and neckline.
The 2nd border
is a little floral border across the bottom and I give you instructions for the
same – go ahead and have fun with that
PART 4 : FLORAL BORDER :
For this border we use
the double treble stitch.
Check
out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U
So we make our floral
border and then we attach it onto our vest.
If you decide (as I have) to
attach it along the placket of your vest, may I suggest that you first make a
row of sc all along the front placket(s) of your vest, in multiples of 10 (which
is our motif pattern repeat).
If you are working this along the base of
the vest, we already have our fsc row there – so we can figure out how to get
that to work for us later.
Remember the counts
there were not 10’s.. so there may be a small re-calculation required.
For the motif, the
designer has used a double treble as well as the double treble together.
We have three double trebles worked together to form one double
treble-tog.
Just for the record, I
think a treble stitch here would work just as well.
My border with the treble
stitch is about 2.5" wide (measured across diameter of motif)
The designer has made
this floral motif in a one piece –
so no joints and attachments ! Yaay!
But
the explanation is a bit complicated.
The chart below should help.
It’s not in
English.. but you can see 1st, 2nd and 3rd..
so those are our row counts.
Our stitch repeat here
is in multiples of 10.
So let’s start making a long chain in multiples of 10 (to fit the
length/width you wish to use your border along).
So before we head off..
quick explanation of how we’re achieving the first half of our flower.
In Row 1, we’re going to
make four petals of our flower all in one chain ;
then move onto the next four petals of the next flower (which will once again
all be in the same ch). Photos below.
Row 2 completes the last
2 petals of our flower.
So please visualize this
before you start – it’ll make it that much simpler to understand. You can try the chainless start for the trc or work chs to start.
In case you're trying the chainless start, you will start with trc 3-tog in the 5th ch for Row 1.
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Triple / Treble crochet 2-tog : trc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 3 times. One trc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/fA0nG__FNug
shows you how to use the trc 2-tog to decrease
And this video shows you how to use it as a decorative stitch.
Row 1 : sk
the 1st 4 ch, trc 2-tog tog in the 5th ch
{so
the ch 4 + trc 2-tog = 1 trc 3-tog} ;
(ch 5, trc 3-tog
in same 5th ch) ;
rep (to) once
;
[ch 5, trc 2-tog in
the same 5th ch and then sk 4 ch and sl-st in
the next ch] ;
*sk next 4 ch, trc 2-tog
in the next ch ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end.
Turn.
Now in this row, we’re
going to complete the last 2 petals of our flower.
You will notice that
there is a really clear ‘centre’ to our flower.
It is the ch where all
your trc-togs have come in.
So that is the centre that we will use for
the last 2 petals.
The ‘corner’ referred to will be the end of the
flower, or the sc that joins 2 flowers together.
Right, so moving on..
Row 2 : *ch
3, trc 3-tog in the centre of the flower ;
ch 5, trc 3-tog in the
centre of same flower ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc*
(which is the corner of
this flower and the next) ;
rep from *to* all the
way to the end. Turn.
Our last row is tricky
as we’re going to join the long row of flowers onto the main work.
First off, check that the right side of the flowers face the right side of your
work.
Now we’re going to attach the flower with sc’s along the front
plackets of your work.
There is no way to explain how to get this done.. just
work your sc’s evenly along the edge of your vest.
Once again, please
look at the chart below as you follow the written instructions.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Row 3 :
trc in the 1st st ;
5 sc along the border of your
vest ;
sk 1st ch-3
sp and trc 3-tog, sc in the next ch-5 sp (of floral border) ;
5 sc along the border
your vest ;
sk next trc 3-tog and ch-3 sp, trc in the next sc ;
*5 sc along the border
of your vest ;
sk next ch-3 sp and trc
3-tog, sc in the next ch-5 sp (of floral
border) ;
5 sc along the border your vest ;
sk next trc 3-tog and ch-3 sp, trc in the next sc* ;
rep from *to* till end.
One side border done.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rep this border along
the other front placket and/or the bottom of the vest as well.
If want to do it along
the bottom of the vest though, you will need to do the back first, join the
sides and then do one continuous border along the bottom.
Once you’re all done,
block as per yarn instructions and wear your creation.
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come
back right here for more freebie patterns
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Here are some of my other creations.
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
and a doll’s top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
.. and some neckwear
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
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