PIANO
TISSUE BOX COVER with VIOLIN MOTIF
I just made this lovely piano inspired tissue
box cover and it had a guitar on top of it.
This time, it is the same pattern on a differently shaped box with a
violin adorning the top.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used some
unbranded knitting cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook
General material info : The pattern
is not yarn specific, which means you can use any
yarn with a suitable hook to make this lovely project.
Skill level : Advanced
Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet dc : Double crochet
ch : chain ch-sp : chain space
sp : space rep : Repeat
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together
trc : Treble / triple crochet
dtrc : Double triple crochet
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
For
the piano tissue box cover instructions, please check https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2018/02/piano-inspired-tissue-box-cover.html
You
can basically use the same idea to make this box to suit any sized tissue box.
All you need to have are the Length / Width and Height of
your tissue box ready on hand. You can
make this to fit any sized box.
And
once you have done the tissue box base, let’s make our lovely violin.
Please
note the pattern uses post stitches and needs advanced crochet skills.
There is a lot of thought that has gone into
the original pattern for the violin by Chinami Horiba which is a free chart
from Ravelry. As there is no write up,
these are my notes as I work on my own project.
For
the original chart, please check https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/violin-motif
We start with a magic circle and work a
series of stitches.
We will not pull the magic circle close.
We will work side to side in rows for the
whole pattern.
The first and last stitches worked will be a
dc 2-tog, which is a decorative stitch to form a puff/ bobble-like stitch and
is not a decrease stitch. So we will
work the dc 2-tog all in one stitch.
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Start Row 1 : with a magic circle.
Work
dc 2-tog ;
(ch 1, dc ; ch 1, 2 dc ; ch 1, dc) ;
dc 2-tog all in the magic
circle.
Pull lightly but do not
close. Turn.
From
this row on, we will work post stitches all the way down the centre of the
violin.
In
the following row, we’ll work fpdc.
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
Row 2 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch
1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
fpdc over the next 2 dc ;
2
dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
[ch
1, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp]. Turn
In the following row we will work bpdc over the fpdc.
Back Post Double Crochet : bpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpdc at https://youtu.be/l9Nt3miOs3s
Row 3 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch
1, sk next dc, 2 dc each in the next 2 dc ;
[bpdc
over the next fpdc ;
dc in the same bpdc ;
bpdc over the next fpdc] ;
2
dc each in the next 2 dc ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same ch-1
sp. Turn
Row 4 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch
2, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ;
[ch
3, sc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch
1, sc in the next 4 sts ;
rep
[to] 3 times ;
ch
2, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch
1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp.
Turn.
Now in this row, we will work a fpdc over the fpdc of
Row 3, skipping or working over the sc of Row 4.
This is only for that centre bit, as we are
creating the handle / of the violin
Row 5 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch
1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch
3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] once ;
ch
1, {fpdc over the next fpdc ;
dc in the same fpdc} ;
rep
{to} once ;
fpdc over the next fpdc ;
ch
1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1
sp. Turn.
Row 6 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch
1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch
1, sc in the next 5 sts ;
ch
1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep [to] once ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1
sp. Turn.
In
the following row, we will work a ch-5 picot, which is (ch 5, sl-st in the 5th
ch from hk).
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Row 7 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog + picot in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp)
;
ch
1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch
1, {fpdc over the next fpdc ; dc in the next sc} ;
rep
{to} once ;
fpdc over the next fpdc ;
ch
1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch
1, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp.
Turn.
Row 8 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch
1, dc in the next sc ;
ch
1, {bpdc over the next fpdc ;
dc in the next dc} ;
rep
{to} once ;
bpdc over the next fpdc ;
dc
in the next sc ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1
sp. Turn.
Row 9 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch
1, sk next dc, {fpdc over the next fpdc ; sk next dc} ;
rep
{to} once ;
fpdc over the next fpdc ;
ch
1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch
1, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp.
Turn.
Row 10 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
dc
in the next fpdc ;
ch
1, bpdc over the next 2 fpdc ;
fpdc + dc
in the next fpdc ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1
sp. Turn.
Once again our first and last dc 2-tog will work a
ch-5 picot.
Row 11 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog + picot in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp)
;
ch
2, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch
2, fpdc over the next 3 bpdc ;
ch
2, sc in the next dc ;
ch
2, sk next dc, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.
Row 12 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
[ch
1, dc in the next sc ;
ch 1, dc in the same sc] ;
ch
1, bpdc in the next 3 fpdc ;
rep
[to] once ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1
sp. Turn.
Row 13 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch
1, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
[ch
3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] once ;
sc
over the next 3 bpdc ;
sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep
[to] 2 times ;
ch
2, sk next dc, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.
Once again we will work our post stitch over the
stitch in Row 12, skipping the sc of Row 13.
Row 14 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch
1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
{ch
1, bpdc in the next fpdc ;
dc in the next sc ; bpdc in the next fpdc} ;
ch
1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep [to] once ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1
sp. Turn.
Row 15 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch
1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
{ch
1, fpdc in the next fpdc ;
dc in the next dc ;
fpdc in the next fpdc} ;
ch
1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch
2, sk next dc, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.
Row 16 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
{bpdc
in the next fpdc ;
dc in the next dc ; bpdc in the next fpdc} ;
sk
next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.
Row 17 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc
2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
{fpdc
in the next bpdc ;
dc in the next dc ; fpdc in the next bpdc} ;
sk
next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn
Row 18 :
sl-st into the 1st fpdc ; dc in the same fpdc ;
dc in the next dc ;
dc in the next fpdc. Turn
Rows 19 - 21 : dc in all 3 dc.
Turn.
In
the following row, we will work our pegs on either side.
For each peg, we will work a ch 5, sl-st into
the 3rd ch from hook, and sl-st in the last 2 ch back to the main
violin handle to work the next set of stitches.
Got it?
Row 23 :
dc in the 1st dc ;
Work 1st peg ; dc in the next 2 dc ;
Work 2nd peg. Turn.
Row 24 :
Rep Row 23.
Row 25 :
dc in all 3 dc. Turn.
In our last row, we will work a ch-3 picot, which is
(ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hook) in the 2 corner sts, and a
ch-5 picot in the centre dc.
Row 26 :
sc + ch-3 picot in the 1st dc ;
sc + ch-5 picot in the next dc ;
sc
+ ch-3 picot in the last dc.
Fasten off
and weave in ends.
I
am sure you enjoyed this! I know I did.
Please remember to
credit the original designer (for the piano key scarf , violin and / or the
chart) when you share your work.
Obviously, I’d appreciate a thumbs up credit as well for the effort in transcribing this chart for you.
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