Sweet Nothings Crochet: KUMO DOILY

Kumo Doily - a free crochet pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet

This is a stunningly beautiful crochet Doily. I've used an Indian cotton thread with a 1.5 mm crochet hook and given you several ideas to tweak this pattern! The choice is yours. Kumo means Spider in Japanese - and it's obvious why I have named it so.

In this pattern I've gone a little beyond the original chart and tweaked it a bit - like I said choose your path, then work on it and be amazed!

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Materials used : Today I’ve used 100 gms (Indian) unbranded cotton thread with a 1.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well

General yarn info : Today’s yarn is available only in India, but is not specific for this pattern.

For this project, use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Difficulty level : Advanced

Instruction information Using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for a video tutorial on all the stitches needed to make this full project.

Please read through all my detailed notes before you pick up your hook.

This helps you get an idea of what we’re creating and what notes / videos to look out for.

Stitches used : Using U.S terminology

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Before we set off on our doily journey, a quick idea. You can add beads in the last round if you wish and if you do want to do it, go ahead and add 288 beads (as that's the number of ch-3 sps in the last round)

I've not done this, as my client did not want beads - but gosh that would look so lovely.

I've used about 100 gms of yarn. If you are using 2 x 50gm balls, you can wait till you join up your 2nd yarn to add in the beads or add them closer to the end even if you are using one ball. You just have to ensure that your knot is tight and as small /invisible as you can make it.

How to add beads : https://youtu.be/EcpgMgBox8I

How to work with beads in crochet : https://youtu.be/yanbAnF_pr0

The pattern has been worked in trc for the first few rounds.

You may work dc or trc. It does not make any difference to the pattern.

Working with dc will only make the end project size a bit smaller.

I will write it as charted and as I am working it but am giving you videos on how to work both dc and trc. You choose.

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs

Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and work 1 trc in it ;

(ch 2, trc in the same magic circle) ;

rep (to) 10 times ;

ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Round 2 : hdc in the 1st st ;

(2 hdc in the next ch-2 sp ; hdc in the next st) ;

rep (to) all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Round 3 : dc in the 1st st ;

(ch 3, sk next 2 sts, dc in the next st) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Double Treble /Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One dtrc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U

In the pattern they've worked a trtr or triple treble st. So for this you wrap your yarn 4 times, insert hook into st ; yo (5 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] four times. One trtr made. The photo tutorial below will help visualise this stitch.

4) yarn over hk 4 times for 2nd trtr stitch

5) draw yarn thru hk 4 times on 2nd trtr st

8) draw yarn thru hk 4 times for 3rd st - 4 lps on hk

10) yo & draw thru all 5 lps -one triple treble (trtr) stitch complete

You can work either a trtr or a dtrc. The only difference is in the height of the stitch which means eventually the diameter of your end project.

The pattern works a trtr 4-tog.

Round 4 : trtr 4-tog in the 1st ch-3 sp ;

(ch 7, trtr 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 7 and join to the 1st st with a sl-st.

Detail of the triple treble stitch and ch-7

Round 5 : hdc in the 1st st ;

(8 hdc in the next ch-7 sp ; hdc in the next st) ;

rep (to) all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : dc in the 1st st ;

(ch 2, sk next 2 sts, dc in the next st) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36 ch-2 sps)

Half double crochet 2-tog : hdc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp] (3 lps on hk) ; insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all 4 lps on hk. One hdc 2-tog made.

Check the video tutorial at https://youtu.be/jdaXTr7Lcig

In the following round we will work a Split hdc 2-tog.

This means that the 1st leg of the hdc 2-tog is in one ch 2-sp, then we sk the dc in between and work the 2nd leg of the hdc 2-tog in the next ch-2 sp.

The photo tutorial below will help you visualise this better.

2) start next Split hdc 2-tog with yo, insert in ch-sp before hdc ;

ch 13 after the Split hdc 2-tog.... start next Split hdc 2-tog with yo, insert in ch-sp before hdc ;

4) sk next hdc, yo and insert hk into next ch

3 lps on hk sk next hdc, yo and insert hk into next ch

6) yo and pull through - one Split hdc 2-tog complete

5 lps on hk yo and pull through - one Split hdc 2-tog complete

Round 7 : sl-st into the 2nd st ;

(ch 13, sk next 2 dc , Split hdc 2-tog over the next 2 ch-sps skipping the dc in between) ;

rep (to) all around ;

work a Split hdc 2-tog over the last ch-sp and the 1st one where we started ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : sl-st into the ch-13 sp ; 17 hdc in the same ch-13 sp ;

(sk next split hdc, 17 hdc in the next ch-13 sp) ;

rep (to) all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9 : sl-st past the 1st 6 hdc , dc in the next hdc ;

*(ch 1, sk next hdc, dc in the next hdc) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 9, sk next 12 hdc, dc in the next hdc]* ;

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

with ch-9 sps in between as charted

Note : I found that my work was not sitting flat after this round.

So I've tweaked the pattern and worked ch-11 sps instead of ch-9 sps in Rounds 9 and 10

Please note that it does sit a bit flatter after Round 13 so you can continue as charted as well if that works for you. However, I am going ahead with my tweak - you do what works for you.

Tweaked : with ch-9 sps in between

Round 10 : sl-st past the 1st 3 dc and ch-1 sps , sl-st past the 1st 2 ch of the ch-9 sp and work 1 dc in the next ch ;

*(ch 1, sk next ch, dc in the next ch) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 9, sk next 3 dc and next 2 ch of the next ch-9 sp and work 1 dc in the next ch ] ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 9, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 11 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;

dc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 1, sk next ch ; dc in the next ch-1 sp] ;

rep [to] 3 times ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

as charted

Note : It looks like its not sitting flat right now, but after Round 13 it does.

I was tempted to work ch-2 sps in this round and the next and then ch-3 sps in Round 13 and there on, but I did not like the spacing despite the fact that the doily really sat nice and flat.. so your choice. Do what works for you

Remember that if you change to ch-3 sps in Round 13, you need to continue working with ch-3 sps for the star part of the pattern. You may also need to recalculate the dc in between the star apices (i.e : the pattern says 5 dc, you may need to work 7 dc)

Tweaked : with ch-11 sps (dc/ch-1 sps in between increase)

Note : Even if you have decided to work my tweak with ch-11 sps, there is no change to the pattern for Rounds 12 & 13. We just have more dc and ch-sps as against the chart.

Round 12 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;

dc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 13 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;

dc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : If you have used the tweak, then the dc and ch-1 sps are more than charted.

as charted

Tweaked : dc & ch-1 sps are increased

Round 14 as charted : dc in the 1st dc ;

*2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the ch-2 sp) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

[dc in the same ch-2 sp ;

dc in the next dc]* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, sk next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Note : If you work as charted, then you have 5 dc and 6 ch-1 sps between a set of 5 dc that will form your star base

Optional Round 14 with the tweak : dc in the 1st dc ;

*dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the ch-2 sp) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

[ch 2, dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

dc in the next dc ;

2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc]* ;

rep *to* all around till the last 2 ch-sps ;

dc in the 2nd last ch-sp ;

dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Note : If you work this tweak, you have a set of 6 dc as the star base as against 4 dc in the chart.

We have a 6-dc set as against a charted 5-dc set as star base

Tweaked Round 14 complete

Round 15 as charted : sl-st in the 1st 2 dc , dc in the next dc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

[ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

dc in the next dc] ;

ch 5, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : Sorry I do not have a photo for this charted version

Tweaked Round 15 : sl-st in the 1st 2 dc , dc in the next dc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

[ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

dc in the next dc] ;

ch 5, sk next 4 dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : From this point on, we're going to go back to the chart. So whether you worked my tweak or not, we're all back on the same page now.

Double Treble /Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One dtrc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U

Round 16 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-2 sp) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

[ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

dc in the next dc] ;

ch 5, sk next 3 dc, dtrc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 5, sk next 3 dc ; dc in the next dc * ;

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 17 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-2 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

dc in the next dc] ;

ch 5, sk next 3 dc, {sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

sc in the next dtrc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

ch 5, sk next 3 dc ; dc in the next dc * ;

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 18 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-2 sp) ;

[ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

dc in the next dc] ;

ch 5, sk next 3 dc, {sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

sc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

ch 5, sk next 3 dc ; dc in the next dc * ;

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 19 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

[ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

dc in the next dc] ;

ch 6, sk next 5 dc, {sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

sc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

ch 6, sk next 3 dc ; dc in the next dc * ;

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 20 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

dc in the next dc ;

ch 7, sk next 5 dc, {sc in the next ch-6 sp ;

sc in the next 5 sc ; sc in the next ch-6 sp} ;

ch 7, sk next 3 dc ; dc in the next dc * ;

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 21 : sl-st past the 1st dc, the ch-3 sp and the next 3 dc , dc in the next dc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;

ch 7, sk next sc, {sc in the next 5 sc} ;

ch 7, sk next sc ; 3 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;

dc in the next dc ;

ch 11, sk next 6 dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 11, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 22 : sl-st past the 1st 3 dc , dc in the next dc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;

ch 7, sk next sc, {sc in the next 3 sc} ;

ch 7, sk next sc ; 3 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;

dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, 13 dc in the next ch-11 sp ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Double Treble /Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One dtrc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U

Round 23 : sl-st past the 1st 3 dc , dc in the next dc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;

ch 3, sk next sc, dtrc in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next sc ; 3 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;

dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next dc ;

(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Once again we work the trtr 4-tog like we did in Round 4

Round 24 : sl-st past the 1st 3 dc , dc in the next dc ;

*3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 2, sk next st, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, (sk next dc, trtr 4-tog in the next ch-2 sp)

[ch 4, rep (to) once] ;

rep [to] 4 times ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 25 : sl-st past the 1st 3 dc , dc in the next dc ;

2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

*ch 4, sk next 3 dc, (hdc in the next trtr ;

5 hdc in the next ch-4 sp)

rep (to) 4 times ; hdc in the last trtr ;

ch 4, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc ;

2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 4, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

As per the chart this is our last round.

However, there is a lot of back and forth which was getting really difficult to write out as a pattern - so I have (once again) tweaked it a bit to make it easier for me and you.

I am, however, giving you a zoomed bit of this last round, just in case you want to work that back and forth.

So for all of you who want to work as charted without my notes :

and for those of you who want my notes, please skip this section and go to Round 26

The chart works this last round in a slightly different manner than usual. You work each 'petal' section (which is that section of four trtr 4-togs that is sticking out like a petal now), back and forth in one piece.

This means we start Round 26 working like we usually do, at the end of the last st, we will Turn and work back on this section (so going back to the start) and then we will Turn and work back on this section again (working the way we usually do and towards the next 'petal section'.

See the red arrows in the chart below for better visualisation

There's also a Split dc 2-tog thrown in.

Chart section explaining how we work back and forth in the last round

Round 26 : sl-st into the 2nd dc , hdc in the same 2nd dc ;

hdc in the next dc ;

*ch 4, sk next dc, sc in the next hdc ;

(ch 10, sk next 5 hdc, sc in the next hdc ;

sl-st over the next 5 sts ;

sc in the next hdc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 4, sk next dc, hdc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 4, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 27 : sc in the 1st 2 hdc ;

*ch 4, 17 hdc in the next ch-10 sp ;

(ch 3, sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st ;

ch 3, 17 hdc in the next ch-10 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 4, sc in the next 2 hdc*;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 4, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

To explain this better let's look at each of the ends as 'petals'. This section we're working on is the first petal, and there are 3 petals in each section. I hope you see them too. So we're going to use our Split dc 2-tog to join 2 sections of our petals and in each section we have two Split dc 2-togs.

So how do we work our Split our dc 2-tog?

We will work the first leg of the dc 2-tog over one hdc, then sk the ch-3 sps and sc in between and work the 2nd leg over the 1st hdc of the next 'petal'.

The photo tutorial below should help

1) ch 2 and ready to start the Split dc 2-tog 2) Yo, hk into last st and draw thru ; 3 lps on hk

3) yo, draw through 2 lps, 2 lps left on hk. 4) yo and hk into next st, yo and draw thru ; 4 lps on hk

5) yo and draw thru 2 lps ; 3 lps on hk. 6) yo and draw through all lps. One Split dc 2-tog complete

One complete 'petal' with the two Split dc 2-tog on either ends

Round 28 : sl-st in the 1st 2 sc and all the way down the ch-4 till the 1st hdc,

dc in that 1st hdc ;

*(ch 2, sk next hdc, dc in the next hdc) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

[ch 2, work the Split hdc 2-tog over the last hdc, and the next hdc, sk the sc & ch-3 sps in the middle] ;

ch 4, sc in the next 2 hdc*;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Work first half of Split dc 2-tog over the last st and then insert into 1st dc ; then yo & pull through to join this round with a Split dc 2-tog

This is the last round. As per pattern, there are no picots or beads, but you could add any or both of them here.

Adding a picot : As you can see, the last round has ch-3 sps all around. So you could easily work a ch-3 or a ch-5 picot in each ch-3 sp.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Adding a bead : As suggested at the start, there are 36 petals and each have eight ch-3 sps so thats 288 beads all around.

Round 29 : sl-st in the 1st ch-2 sp ; sc in that same 1st ch-2 sp ;

*(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-2 sp) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

[ch 3, sk the Split hdc 2-tog , sc in the next ch-2 sp] ;

ch 4, sc in the next 2 hdc*;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 29 with picot : sl-st in the 1st ch-2 sp ; sc in that same 1st ch-2 sp ;

*(ch 2 + picot + ch 1, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-2 sp) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

[ch 2 + picot + ch 1, sk the Split hdc 2-tog , sc in the next ch-2 sp] ;

ch 4, sc in the next 2 hdc*;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2 + picot + ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 29 with beads : sl-st in the 1st ch-2 sp ; sc in that same 1st ch-2 sp ;

*(ch 2 + bead + ch 2, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-2 sp) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

[ch 2 + bead + ch 2, sk the Split hdc 2-tog , sc in the next ch-2 sp] ;

ch 4, sc in the next 2 hdc*;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2 + bead + ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

and that's our beautiful doily done.

Do let me know how this works out especially if you have added beads at the ends.

And as always, do reach out to me via my different social media handles and show me what you've created. I'd love to share your work on my social media as well.

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