Welcome to Sweet Nothings Crochet for loads of free crochet patterns, video tutorials & awesome creations. If you want to learn, or just want to see some great free patterns, you're in the right place. All my blogs have video tutorials with loads of ideas thrown in for good measure. Thanks for dropping by and I hope you'll stay a while.
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Here I am back again, this
time with a really beautiful and tried and tested pattern - the basket weave
stitch.
I just love this pattern.. amazing how a mix ' n match of a few
stitches gives you this delightful pattern.. and with the upcoming festive
season and so many gifts to go out.. why not make one filled with love and hand
made for all those special people in your life.
I was traveling and one of my co-passengers was struggling with
the usual 'what-shall-I-give' conundrum and I gave her a few ideas.. and
thought I'd post this out for her and all of us who are similarly stuck in the
gifting game.
This scarf has been made in one colour, but it'll look just superb
in ombre - or a range of colours that slowly build up.
I've also added tassels at the end - so if you're combining colours
through the scarf, throw a splash of colour there as well, and see the face of
the person you gift this to, light up.
Have fun and I hope you enjoy this project as well.
You could make this into a cowl too. After you have reached the length
(or circumference in the case of an infinity cowl), just join the two ends of
your scarf - and Voila! Infinity scarf made!
Oh and before you go off.. yarn information. I've used a
lovely light fingering weight yarn, but this pattern is so gorgeous, and if
weather allows you to work with thicker yarns, this pattern works beautifully
with fingering, sport weight and DK weight yarns as well. The gauge will
not match, but that doesn't really matter, as the pattern will still look
superb!
Yarn used : Oswal3 ply acrylic (or light fingering weight yarn) with a 4 mm hook (G ; US 6)crochet hook
This yarn is not specific for this pattern. You can use any yarn with a suitable hook for this creation, and make it to any size you want.
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Skill Level : Advanced
beginner
Gauge : Not important as a different yarn will give you a
different gauge, but I have a gauge of 2 rows in pattern and 6 sts (3 fpdc + 3
bpdc) = 1”.
Abbreviations used : (Pattern
uses US terminology)
sc : Single Crochet
dc : Double Crochet sk : skip
st : stitch sp : space
ch : chain rep : repeat fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience, I've added some links just before the stitch is to be used as well.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
As mentioned before, you can use any yarn with a suitable hook and make
this to any size you want. All you need to do is figure out the stitch
count and ensure you work in multiples thereof.
You can leave the ends of your project unattached and get a scarf
or wrap or you join the ends and get an infinity cowl.
If you are making this into a scarf, add a few dangling long tassels at the end and it will not only add to the length, but also make it look light and lacy.
This pattern works with a combination of post stitches.
Stitch explanation and photo tutorial for fpdc and bpdc at the end of this blog.
Come along then..
let's create...
Our stitch count is in multiples of 4
As I have started with 28 sts, I will give a stitch count
accordingly.
Do note though that you do not need to stay with 28 sts -
just work in the stitch count given.
Row 1 : dc
in each fsc till end. (28 dc in my case). Turn.
We will now start our basket weave pattern.
We use post stitches from here on.
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc :Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc: yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
Back Post Double Crochet : bpdc :Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpdc athttps://youtu.be/l9Nt3miOs3s
Row 2 :
dc in the 1st dc ; fpdc into next 3 dc ,
*bpdc into next 4 dc,
fpdc in next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* till the last 4
sts ;
fpdc in last 3 dc ; dc
in the last dc. Turn.
(4 sets of fpdc, 3 sets
of bpdc - if using start of 28 sts)
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; bpdc in next 3
dc,
*fpdc in next 4 dc, bpdc
in next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* till the last 4 sts ;
bpdc in last 3 dc ; dc in the last dc.
(4 sets of bpdc, 3 sets
of fpdc - if using start of 28 sts)
Row 4 : Repeat
Row 3
Row 5 : Repeat
Row 2
Stitch detail
Repeat Row 2 to Row 5
till your desired length.
The above pattern will
slowly emerge.
End with Row 5.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Tassels : Optional,
but tassels will look lovely with this particular scarf.
Block per your yarn
instructions and wear with pride
Photo tutorial for Front Post Double Crochet
(fpdc)
Instructions : Yarn
over hook, insert hook into the front of your stitch (from front to behind the
stitch and then come to the front of your work again, such that the
‘post’ is over your hook, aRow the front of your hook) - Pic 1, yarn over, pull
through (3 loops on hook), bringing stitch up (to the height of stitch on the
Row you are working on), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops
remaining on hook) – Pic 2, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops to
complete stitch.
One fpdc complete. Pic 3
Photo tutorial for Back Post Double Crochet
(bpdc)
Instructions : Yarn
over hook, insert hook into the back of your stitch (from back to front of the
stitch in the lower row, and the ‘post’ is over your hook, a row the back),
yarn over, pull through (3 loops on hook), bringing stitch up (to the height of
stitch on the row you are working on), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2
loops remaining on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops to complete
stitch. One bpdc complete.
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come
back right here for more freebie patterns
Remember
to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook. I’d love to feature your photos on my FB
page. Cheers.
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you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do
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patterns will come straight to your mail box.
I’d
appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link)
when you make your own creation. Thanks.
This really simple creation can be made as a vest as well as a top.
Diagonals.. and shells.. what a superb combination! How can one
resist this, right? So I didn’t even bother resisting! When
this pattern dropped onto my lap last week, I just knew it was a ‘to-be-done’
pattern!! So here we are…
Thank you for joining me.
In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.
Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.
All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link at the bottom of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.
Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.
Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.
Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.
To purchase this or similar yarn online, click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well.
This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.
Do
remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.
Please note that I start all rows with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.
Please also check the top of this blog for neat video tutorials of all stitches used in today’s pattern sheet. For your convenience, video tutorials are also added right where we will use them.
Please go through the full instruction sheet before you start, so you get an idea of what we’re doing. Cheers.
This is not my original pattern and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net. I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.
This pattern starts at the waist and calculating the width (around waist / chest) measurements, you work all the way up to the armholes.
There you decrease for the armholes and neckline and voila! You’re done!
The back portion is simpler as the pattern is only on the front!
Now while all this sound pretty simple, there are a few complications thrown into the mix.. just to jazz it up and the project .. so be ready for a bit of a roller coaster ride. It’ll totally be worth it!
PART 1 : FRONT(Make two)
We start with the left
front.
To make the right front, you will work the mirror image of this pattern.
Startwith
34 fsc in multiples of 15 + 4 for half the front measurement.
Note : The round measurement is divided by 4 to get the half front measure, and this is a cm or inch measurement. You will then ensure that you get this measurement by working the stitch count given.
Single Crochet : Sc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Row 1 :sc
in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 3, sk 2 fsc, sc in
the next fsc* ;
rep from *to* till
end. Turn.
Double Crochet : dc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
Row 2 :dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 1, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Front post single crochet : fpsc :Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch on the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fpsc at https://youtu.be/OQa8YLpkdXs
Row 3 :sc
in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) twice* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 3, sc in the last dc.
Turn.
So we’ve finished our
first row of shells.
Our next row of shells
will move one ch-3 sp.
So let’s see how we get
that done.
Row
4 :dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp
;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) twice* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 1, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Row 5 :sc
in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 3, sc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 6 :dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 1, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Row 7 :sc
in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the last dc. Turn.
Row 8 :dc
in the 1st sc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ending with the 5 dc ;
dc in the last sc. Turn.
Row 9 :sc
in the 1st dc ; fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
sc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 10 :dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.
Row 11 :sc
in the 1st dc ;
*ch 3 , sk next
sc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 3, sc in the last dc.
Turn.
So you’ve probably now
figured how our shells are moving diagonally.
The shells are separated
by three ch-3 sps, and every fourth row there’ll be one added from the
end.
I’ll take you through a few more rows and then we can go off and
work it till our armholes.
Row 12 :dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.
Row 13 :sc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
*ch 3 , sk next
sc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 3 times*
;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 1, sc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 14 :dc
in the 1st sc ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc
in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
rep (to) once ;
ch 1, dc
in the last sc. Turn.
Row 15 :sc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
*rep (to) once ;
ch 3 ,
sk next sc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep from *to* till end
;
ending with one rep of
(to) and then the last ch 3 and sc in the last dc. Turn.
Rep Rows 6 – 15 till
your project reaches length needed till armhole ; ending with a Row 6.
I started my armhole
decreases after two repeats, with length of ~ 14.5”.
As you’ll see from
pattern, it is really simple now.. you just continue with the shelled patterns
till completion, but do not start any new shells .. cool,
right?
What a smart designer .. hat’s off!!
PART 2 : ARMHOLES
Armhole decrease row 1 :
[sc in 1st sc ; sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc ;
2 sc in next ch-3 sp
; sc in next sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3 , sk next sc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the last dc. Turn.
(This is part of Row 7)
Armhole decrease row 2 :
dc
in the 1st sc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 2,
sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once ;
2
sc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.
(This is part of Row 8)
Armhole decrease row 3 :
sl
st in 1st 2 sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next sc ;
ch 1, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next
dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 3 , sk next sc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ;
sc in the last dc. Turn.
(This is part of Row 9)
Armhole decrease row 4 :
dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.
Armhole row 4 :
sc
in the 1st dc ; ch 3 , sk next sc, fpsc in the next dc
;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 3, sc in the last dc.
Turn.
Armhole row 5 :
dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 1, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Armhole row 6 :
sc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) 3 times.
Turn.
Armhole row 7 :
dc
in the 1st sc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sk next sc , dc in
the last sc. Turn.
Armhole row 8 :
sc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3 , sc in the last
dc. Turn.
Armhole row 9 : (Neckline
decrease row) :
sc in the 1st sc
; 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc ;
ch 1, 5 dc in the next
ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Armhole row 10 :
sc
in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 3 , sk next sc,
fpsc in the next dc ;
sc in the last dc. Turn.
Armhole row 11 :dc
in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) twice ;
ch 3, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Great so we’re done with
our shelled patterns and diagonals.. from now on till the shoulder line,
we’re just going to do our ch-3 patterns.. and we’re almost done with one part
of your vest !!
Yaay.. that was quick, was it not?
Next row :sc
in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 1, sc in last dc.
Turn.
Next row :dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sc in last dc.
Rep the last 2 rows till
your project is of the right length – your armholes are the right size and the
neckline fits too.
Fasten off. Weave
in ends.
Work a mirror image of
this front for the the right hand side of your work.
The back is really easy.
It’s all ch-3 sps all through.
Tip : If
you are planning on using a border (as I have) along the front plackets, then
do this border first, and recalculate the width of the front before starting on
the back.
I say this, as the placket adds to the width of your project.
PART 3 : BACK
(Make one)
Startwith
double the number of fsc for the front using the same multiples count.
I say "double the
number" as we had two front pieces and only one back - so basically you are working with half waist measure here.
Row 1 :sc
in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 3, sk 2 fsc, sc in
the next fsc* ;
rep from *to* till
end. Turn.
Row 2 :dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the 1st ch-3 sp
;
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, dc in last
sc. Turn.
Row 3 :sc
in the 1st dc ;
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in
the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sc in last
dc. Turn
Rep Rows 2 & 3 till
you reach the armhole point for the front.
Follow the decrease for the
armhole as for front.
The designer has not reduced anything along the
neckline, but if you so decide, around the last 2 rows from end, you could
divide your work in half, count off the a few ch-3 sps evenly from centre and
not work on them – so you get a little bit of a neckline along the back.
Fasten
off. Weave in ends.
BORDER
There
are two borders in this pattern.
The simple one that goes around the
armholes and neckline and down the front placket is a hdc or dc evenly spread
all around.
You would, of course, first join your sides and shoulder
blades and then work the hdc or dc around the armhole and neckline.
The 2nd border
is a little floral border across the bottom and I give you instructions for the
same – go ahead and have fun with that
PART 4 : FLORAL BORDER :
For this border we use
the double treble stitch.
Double Triple Crochet : dtrc :wrap yarn three times around hook,
insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three
times. One trc made.
So we make our floral
border and then we attach it onto our vest.
If you decide (as I have) to
attach it along the placket of your vest, may I suggest that you first make a
row of sc all along the front placket(s) of your vest, in multiples of 10 (which
is our motif pattern repeat).
If you are working this along the base of
the vest, we already have our fsc row there – so we can figure out how to get
that to work for us later.
Remember the counts
there were not 10’s.. so there may be a small re-calculation required.
For the motif, the
designer has used a double treble as well as the double treble together.
We have three double trebles worked together to form one double
treble-tog.
Just for the record, I
think a treble stitch here would work just as well.
My border with the treble
stitch is about 2.5" wide (measured across diameter of motif)
The designer has made
this floral motif in a one piece –
so no joints and attachments ! Yaay!
But
the explanation is a bit complicated.
The chart below should help.
It’s not in
English.. but you can see 1st, 2nd and 3rd..
so those are our row counts.
Our stitch repeat here
is in multiples of 10.
So let’s start making a long chain in multiples of 10 (to fit the
length/width you wish to use your border along).
So before we head off..
quick explanation of how we’re achieving the first half of our flower.
In Row 1, we’re going to
make four petals of our flower all in one chain ;
then move onto the next four petals of the next flower (which will once again
all be in the same ch). Photos below.
Row 2 completes the last
2 petals of our flower.
So please visualize this
before you start – it’ll make it that much simpler to understand. You can try the chainless start for the trc or work chs to start.
In case you're trying the chainless start, you will start with trc 3-tog in the 5th ch for Row 1.
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
sk 1st ch-3
sp and trc 3-tog, sc in the next ch-5 sp (of floral border) ;
5 sc along the border
your vest ;
sk next trc 3-tog and ch-3 sp, trc in the next sc ;
*5 sc along the border
of your vest ;
sk next ch-3 sp and trc
3-tog, sc in the next ch-5 sp (of floral
border) ;
5 sc along the border your vest ;
sk next trc 3-tog and ch-3 sp, trc in the next sc* ;
rep from *to* till end.
One side border done.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rep this border along
the other front placket and/or the bottom of the vest as well.
If want to do it along
the bottom of the vest though, you will need to do the back first, join the
sides and then do one continuous border along the bottom.
Once you’re all done,
block as per yarn instructions and wear your creation.
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