LATTICED SPIDER SHAWL – 1
I have made a
similar latticed spider shawl before but that one only had the spider pattern
along the edges… so if you just multiply the pattern over, you get this lovely
creation.
My earlier
similar pattern is at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2015/12/latticed-spider-shawl.html
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This is not my
original pattern. I have worked off the
chart that I used for my earlier project, and instead of the lacy centre
portion, I just worked the latticed spider stitch all through the project. So here are my notes as I make my own
project.
Materials used : I
have used about 120 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 3-ply, light
fingering yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
You could also use our Indian Anchor / Red rose / White or the wide range of Alize knitting cotton yarns with a 3 - 3.5 mm
crochet hook too.
Size :
~
36” x 68”
Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view
this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg
Chainless dc start : Instead
of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of
starting a double crochet row. Do take a
look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do
not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start. However, all instructions will be given
assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.
We start our lovely shawl from the centre of the
triangle, that will be furthest to you.
We can start with 3 ch and work 2 dc in the 3rd ch from hk,
but I much prefer the magic circle start.
So choose your start, hooks on.. let’s start.
Start with a
magic circle and 3 dc in that circle.
Pull lightly to close. Turn.
Row 1 : 3
dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 2 : 3
dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 3 : 3
dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : 3
dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 5, sk next 2 dc , (sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in next dc ;
sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 5, sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 5 : 3
dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 7, sk next 2 dc ;
(sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
sc in next 3 sc ;
sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
ch 7, sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the
last dc. Turn.
Row 6 : dc
in the 1st dc ; ch 3, sk next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;
(ch 5, sk 1st
sc, sc in next 3 sc) ;
ch 5, sk next sc, 2 dc in the next ch-7 sp ; dc
in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in the last dc. Turn.
And just as we’re finishing our first spider
stitch, we’re starting off on the next one.
Row 7 : 3
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc ; dc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in
the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next sc, dc in the next sc ;
ch 5, sk next sc, 2 dc in the next ch-5 sp, dc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc and 3 dc in
the last dc. Turn.
The next row is a rep of Row 4, in a way.
Row 8 : 3
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 5, sk next 2 dc , sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in next dc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in
the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc , 2 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 5, sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the
last dc. Turn.
The next row is a rep of Row 5, in a way.
Row 9 : 3
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 7, sk next 2 dc , sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
sc in next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
ch 7, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next
dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 7, sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the
last dc. Turn.
The next row is a rep of Row 6, in a way.
Row 10 : 3
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in
the next ch-7 sp ;
ch 5, sk 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc ; ch
5, sk next sc, 2 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;
dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in the
last dc. Turn.
The next row is a rep of Row 7, in a way.
Row 11 : 3
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in
the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next sc, dc in the next sc ;
ch 5, sk next sc, 2 dc in the next ch-5 sp, dc
in the next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc and 3 dc in
the last dc. Turn.
The next row is a rep of Row 8, in a way.
Row 12 : 3
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 5, sk next 2 dc , sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in next dc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in
the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc , 2 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc
in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 5, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc
in next dc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 2 dc , 3 dc in the last dc. Turn.
The next row is a rep of Row 9, in a way.
Row 13 : 3
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 7, sk next 2 dc , sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
sc in next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 7, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
dc in
the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 7, sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the
last dc. Turn.
Put your work down and see the three little
diamonds of spider stitch we’ve created thus far. You would probably have
figured out repeats as well.
Our pattern repeat will be Rows 10 – 13, ending
in a Row 13.
Continue this till you get the shawl till the
length you want.
Finishing :
A lovely shawl always needs a lovely finish.
So options : You could do a row or two of sc on
the edges.
OR, though both the chart and finished shawl do
not show it, you could work a lovely picot edging and here’s a quick refresher
on how to do that.
One could also add beads for a little
bling to this already beautiful creation.
And here’s a quick link on how to add beads in
your project https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MbLCuyfv-M
And just in case you are trying to work out how
to thread your beads onto your yarn, then here’s a lovely video link
OR you can work this little edging that I have
worked.
For our edging, our stitch count is in multiples
8.
I have decided to work this edging on all three
sides of the triangle, so we will work in a circle.
IF you decide not to work on the flat side that
goes against the neck, your stitch count will be in multiples of 8 + 1
Start with a row
of sc all around ensuring that you get the same number of stitches on the two
sides of the triangle and get a multiple of 8 all around. The easiest way to get all this done
is to ensure you have multiples of 8 on all three sides.
The border is made up of a total of 3 rounds, so
working back, you can now calculate how many inches this will add to your
work.
If you decide you want a larger
border, then you will need to work a few more rounds of sc all around, one on
top of the other…. OR you can work hdc or dc (which will add to the width of
the border, obviously). Whatever you do,
ensure you keep the stitch count. You
should also work 3 stitches per corner (in the apex of each corner) each extra
round that you work, so that your work will open out and the edges will not
curl.
I am going to write the pattern as charted, but
I am going to give you ideas that you can work on before you start the charted pattern
– use it as you wish.
So if you want a little more width than just a
longer stitch (as in hdc / dc as against sc), then you can work a row of
‘holes’ / spaces. For this, you would
work a st in the 1st st, sk the next st and work a st in the next st. You will work this way all around till the
apex (three corners), where you will work a (st ; ch 1, st ; ch 1, st) all in
the same apex / corner centre st. I only
say “stitch” as you are free to use sc / hdc / dc depending on how much you
wish to add for your border.
IF you work a hole / space row, you will need to
work an all-stitch row thereafter, before you start on the border pattern. So for the all-stitch row, you will work 1 st
per st and 1 st in each ch-1 sp.
Remember that in the centre stitch for each apex / corner, you will work
the required 3 sts as usual, so that it will keep each corner open flat.
Please remember that at the
end of all these extra lines you will still need the stitch count in
multiples of 8.
Right then, once you have done all the
extensions you wish, we will start on the border 2 rounds.
In the following row, we’re working a trc
2-tog. Here’s a quick look at how to get
this done, if you need it.
Triple / Treble crochet 2-tog : trc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 3 times. One trc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0y4BbgDTbs shows you how to use the trc 2-tog to decrease
And this video shows you how to use it a decorative stitch.
We will work a set of four trc 2-tog separated
by 2 chs per set, and in each corner we will work 2 sets, separated by 2 chs.
Now I am assuming that we are in the corner apex
centre st, and will give instructions from there.
Round 1 : trc 2-tog
in the 1st st ;
(ch 2, trc 2-tog) in the same st ;
rep (to) 5
times in the same st ;
*{ch 2, sk next 3 sts, sc in the next st ;
ch 2,
sk next 3 sts, trc 2-tog in the next st ;
rep (to) 3 times in the same
st} ;
rep {to} till the next corner centre st and
rep (to) 7 times all in the same
st* ;
rep *to* all the way around till the 1st st ;
ch 2, and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Note : Remember
that in each corner centre st, you will work one set seven trc
4-tog.
In the following round, we will be skipping all
the trc 2-tog and working only in the ch-2 sps.
Round 2 : sl-st past
the 1st trc 2-tog and into the 1st ch-2 sp, sc in the same
ch-2 sp ;
*(ch 4, sc in the same ch-2 sp ;
ch 4, sk next trc 4-tog, sc
in the next ch-2 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
[ch 4, sk next trc 4-tog, sc in the
next ch-2 sp ;
ch 4, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* all around
till end ;
ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finally with all scarves and shawls, I will always
suggest that you block your project before use or handing over to your client.
Block as per yarn requirements.. and then do
show your lovely work off. Please do tag
me on Facebook when you finish your product, as I’d love to see your
creation(s).
How to block a shawl : Check out this video for a "how to"
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I have a
more neckwear that you may like to take a look at
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
and some boleros / jacket / vests ...
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
and a doll’s top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
.. and some neckwear
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
