Sweet Nothings Crochet: SHELLED DELIGHT BABY DRESS

SHELLED DELIGHT BABY DRESS

I am in that happy state of having a lovely stash of yarn and some absolutely super patterns to follow.. but over time, I’ve found that there are many who need more than a set of photos and chart. As I am making this lovely dress, I thought that, once again, I’ll just share my notes here with you.

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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

Materials used : Stylecraft 4-ply baby yarn , ~ 80 gms ; with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; buttons; press buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette ; beads n more

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Size : 1 year old – Chest : 20” x Length : 19.5”

Gauge : 2 rows (high) x 5 dc (across) = 1”

You can make this to any size, using any yarn and suitable hook.

Yarn quantity and gauge given as estimation to figure out yarn requirement.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/ or https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/ and

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

dc : Double Crochet yo : Yarn Over

hk : Hook sk : Skip

sl-st : Slip stitch

sc : Single Crochet

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

This is not my original pattern idea. I have found a set of charts on the net but these are my original notes ;)

For this dress, we’re starting top down, (i.e with a lovely round yoke – from the neck-line and going down to the chest)

PART 1 : THE YOKE

I am making this dress for a one year old, and am using the chart only as a guideline.

In case you are making this for a different size, may I suggest that you (a) either see how large 43 fdc work out for you OR you use the charts given above for neck sizing.

The other choice would be to work in multiples of the skirt stitch count.

The skirt has a stitch count of 16.

So you could work in multiples of 16 + 1.

I realise that 43 is not a multiple of 16 + 1, but this is what worked for me.. and I am writing it according to what I have done, with ideas of what you could do if 43 doesn't work. Got it?

Finally, if all else fails, you just start with fdc to go around the neck of the child, then work the simple pattern for the yoke, ensuring that when you reach the level for the skirt part of the pattern, you have the stitch count needed.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Round 1 : Start with 43 fdc . Turn

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet patterns, chart for the dress,

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Round 2 : dc in the 1^st dc,

ch 2, sk next dc ;

*dc in next dc , ch 2, sk next dc* ;

rep from *to* till end. Turn.

Round 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*2 dc in next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep from *to* till end. Turn.

Round 4 : dc in the 1^st dc, ch 2, sk next dc ;

*dc in next dc , ch 2, sk next 2 dc* ;

rep from *to* till end. Turn.

Round 5 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*2 dc in next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep from *to* till end. Turn.

Rounds 6 - 12 : Rep Rounds 4 and 5 four times.

Note : I found that following the repeats was making the back end more curved than I needed (so making the back placket would be a problem), so I have, in the last few rounds, not done the 2 dc’s in the 1^st and last ch-2 sps, and this seems to have worked. I also reduced the ch-2 sps in the last round, and made those ch-1 sps, thus further reducing the ‘round’ circumference of my yoke.

I suggest you too keep checking your work to ensure that it is not getting too large and out of hand – and mainly that the back ends do match up for proper closure.

Finally, I’m not sure what sized project has been made by designer, so do keep your sizing in mind and rep Rounds 6-12 only as many times as you need (i.e you may only need three instead of four repeats) – what I’ve given here is what I’ve taken from the photos and charts.

On completion of the yoke, I always prefer to make the back placket and the button holes, then join the last row, so it’s convenient for me to work the lower section in rounds.

So let’s get this bit done and we’ll return for the skirt part.

PART 2 : THE SKIRT

I usually attach my two halves of back at the button hole portion, and then start from this back (centre back) point.
But it doesn’t really matter where you start.. so let’s start with the skirt portion of our superb creation.

Our stitch count here is in multiples of 16.

One more note – the designer has done one set of skirt pattern rounds and then divided for the armhole.

Please remember this needs to get done shortly – mentioning this now, in case I forget .. or you miss reading that instruction later.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps.

One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st dc ; ch 5, sk next 4 dc , sc in the next dc ;

*ch 5, sk next 4 dc , sc in the next dc* ;

rep from *to* till last 4 dc ;

ch 2, dc (which acts like the last 3 ch) in the 1^st sc.

[i.e. the 1^st sc you’ve made for this round]

This way you’re in the middle of the last ch-5 sp and are right where you need to be

One more quick count needed. A quick look at the pattern reveals that we are once again on a pattern rep in fours – so you need your ch-5 sps in multiples of four.

Go around your round just made and ensure you have the required multiples.. else another tweak to get this worked out as well.. and we’ll meet back here again.

Round 2 : 4 dc in the 1^st ch-5 sp ;
sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) once;

*8 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep from *to* till 2^nd last ch-sp ;

rep (to) in next ch-sp ;

4 dc in the last ch-sp.

Join with an sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep from (to) twice ;

*sc in the next ch-5 sp,

ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

dc in the next dc ;

rep from (to) 7 times* ;

rep from *to* till last two ch-5 sps ;

sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 1 and join to the 1^st dc.

Phew ! Let’s take a breather and see what you’ve done this far – we’ve done part of one repeat – and I’m sure you’ve figured the pattern out by now.
We will do a bit more together before I let you go and complete your project.. meanwhile remember what I’d mentioned earlier regarding the sleeves – take a quick look and see where you want to divide off for sleeves.
I’m going to run one more round of the ch-5’s and see if that’s where I want to divide off.. but from here on.. I’m just going to give you the reps and you’ve got to remember when you want to divide off.

To divide, I’d suggest that you do it in the round where we do the 8 dc in the ch-5 sp – so if you’re division for armhole comes under the armpit area, you can neatly do 4 dc in each side of it.. and the pattern continuation is neat.

Right .. movin' on…

Round 4 : sc in the 1^st st ;

(ch 5, sk next 2 dc and ch-sp ,

sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

*[ch 5, sk next 2 dc and ch-sp ,

sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep from (to) 3 times* ;

rep from *to* till you’ve reached the last ch-5 that you’ve got to join with and then as usual ;

ch 2, dc (which acts like the last 3 ch) in the 1^st sc.

[i.e the 1^st sc you’ve made for this round]

.. and we’re back right where you need to be, centre of the last ch-sp

Round 5 : sc in the 1^st st ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

sc in the next sc ;

rep from (to) till you’ve reached the last ch-5 that you’ve got to join with and then as usual ;

ch 2, dc (which acts like the last 3 ch) in that 1^st sc.

Round 6 : sc in the 1^st ch-5 sp

(i.e where you’ve just joined) ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

*8 dc in the next ch-5 sp ,

sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

rep (to) twice ; ch 5* ;

rep from *to* you’ve reached the last ch-5 that you’ve got to join with and then as usual ;

ch 2, dc in the 1^st sc.

Round 7 : sc in the 1^st st ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

sc in the next sc ;

rep from (to) once ;

*dc in the next dc ;

[ch 1, dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] 6 times ;

sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

rep from (to) twice* ;

rep from *to* till last two ch-5 sps ;

sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 1 and join to the 1^st dc.

And you’re done with one full rep.

So now you’ve got an idea of what to do.. have fun.. ensure that your shells alternate.. so the next set of shells will be like in Round 1-3 and then the set after will be like this set we’ve made.

I also hope you’ve divided off (or remember that you have to) for the sleeves.

One note : On completion of Round 7, you’re at one end of the 8 dc set, so sl-st (forward) to the centre of the next ch-5, sc and start from there,

OR sl-st (backward – i.e turn your work around, and then sl-st which is in effect going backwards, right) to the ch-1 sp on this 8-dc set and then once again, sc in that ch-sp and then ch 5 to start your next round.

Whipstitch to join : at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Sleeves : For the border of the sleeves, you could work another few rows of shells to give the sleeve a cute puffed look.

Neckline : For a neat finish, first run a round of sc all around the neckline.

Or you can add a row of shells around the neckline too.

Use the picot stitch as needed.

How to picot : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3^rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5^th ch from hook).

In case this video does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

And c’est tout (yes, fancy few words that I know in French.. just means ‘that’s it’ )

I’ve had a super time writing and figuring this pattern out.. and it’s turned out real cute.. hope yours has too.

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