Sweet Nothings Crochet: SHELLED PINAFORE BABY DRESS

SHELLED PINAFORE BABY DRESS - free crochet pattern info from Sweet Nothings Crochet

I have been mulling around with the idea of making a crochet pinafore type dress and this one is just too cute. The choice of using pink and white alternatively makes the baby dress so cute and gives the wearer the options of adding either color satin ribbons to jazz it up, doesn't it? I've loved making this crochet pinafore dress but the only thing now is.. can I stop after I make this first one ? ;) 😆 hahahah. So keep an eye out for my blogs on similar patterns. Thank you for joining me.

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The best way to find me is via Pinterest here and if you are looking for more children wear look here and be inspired by this pin here . Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. For today's project I've used our lovely (Indian) All Seasons Hobby India yarn, with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project

Materials used : Today I’ve one skein each of a the lovely All Seasons Hobby India yarn, with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; a little embroidery thread ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; buttons; press buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette ; beads n more

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Skill level : Intermediate

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

dc : Double crochet

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

fsc : Foundation single crochet

Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

How to do a picot stitch : For a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk), and for a 5-ch picot (ch 5, sl-st in the 5th ch from hk)

A neat video link to refresh this procedure. video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing here or here

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing here , here or here

Take a look at these three joining methods and choose what suits you best.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

This is not my original pattern. As I work on this pattern, with my tweaks and changes, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.

This is a top down creation. We start at the waist and we will work from the waist down for the length of the skirt you want.

We will work a small belt, with an opening at the back, along the waist line.

The opening is going to be worked as part of the belt.

When calculating your start measure for the skirt, take both waist and hip measurements.

If the child’s waist and hips are the same size, then you can take half the round measure.

If there is a difference, please take half the round measure of the one that is more (or larger)

Always keep a margin in mind for the stretch of yarn as well as the looseness of your work (tension)

To work the belt, pinafore bit and straps, we will then come back to this start foundation row.

Remember to keep in mind that the belt bit (and how wide you want it) will add to the length of your skirt.

PART 1 : Skirt portion (Make one piece)

Chart for the skirt portion of the dress

This project can be made in one colour but, I am opting to use two colours for my skirt and am just going to change colors every few rounds.

I will not be indicating when to change colours, as I’d love you to work in your creativity here. Cheers.

The stitch count for our skirt is in multiples of 10.

We work in rounds.

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Start Round 1 : with fsc in multiples of 10 for the round waist / hip measure of the child. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Pay attention that you keep the work flat.

Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat without twisting when working with a longer chain length check here

We will now work in rounds.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Round 2 : sc in the 1^st fsc ;

ch 2, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;

*ch 5, sk next 4 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till the last 4 fsc ,

ch 2, sk next 3 fsc, dc in the last fsc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Round 3 : sc in the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

*9 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 4 : sk 1^st dc, dc in the next dc ;

*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 5 : sk the 1^st dc ;

sc in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

sk next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 6 : sl-st past the 1^st ch-3 sp and sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*ch 5, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 5, sk next two ch-3 sps, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 7 : 9 dc in the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

.. and we’re done with one pattern repeat.

Rep Rounds 4 to 7 till you have the length needed for your skirt.

REMEMBER that we’re adding a belt to the top of our skirt, which will add to your skirt length.

We’ll meet back shortly for the belt and straps for our skirt.

PART 2 : Belt

Re-attach your yarn one one side to work the belt portion first.

We will work this in rows, side to side.

The front and back will be worked continuous, and we will attach a hook / button on the side of our project.

Row 1 : hdc or dc in the 1^st st and in each st all the way till end. Turn.

Now you can either work a few rows of hdc / dc in each hdc / dc all the way to create your belt

OR you can work post stitches in each st all the way around.

If you choose to work with post stitches, you will work a bpdc in each st when working on the wrong side of work ; and a fpdc in each st when working on the right side of work.

Working with post stitches will give you a neat ribbed belt.

Once you have worked your belt rows, fasten off and weave in ends.

PART 3 : Pinafore & Straps

diagram on how to work the pinafore dress - not to scale

Before we start on the pinafore bit,

a) Decide if you want this pinafore ‘flap’ bit for both the front and back

b) Find the centre of the skirt (front and back if you are working both sides.

c) Decide how wide you want the flap for your pinafore and then place two markers to mark the side

d) Keeping your opening to one side, fold your skirt in half and mark the centre roughly. May I suggest that you double check that you have the centre (front and back), by counting stitches on either side.

I am going to work the flap only one side, and have straps that go all the way off from the flap to the belt.

Once you are done with the flat piece, place two markers to mark where you want your straps.

OK. So first let’s work the pinafore bit.

Re-attach your yarn at any one marker for the pinafore flap.

Work hdc / dc in each st from one marker to the next (for flap). Turn.

Continue increasing the height of your flap as desired working hdc / dc in each st.

Once you have reached the top of your flap, we will work on one strap.

For the strap :

a) First decide how wide you want your strap. Say 6 sts. Work hdc / dc in each st for 6 sts and Turn.

b) Continue working only on these 6 sts back and forth till you have the strap length needed.

c) Your strap will either join up at the pinafore flap at the back or the waist band at the back.

d) Add buttons and button holes (if desired) at the end of your strap.

e) You can also add a press-button for convenience.

f) Check this blog HERE and scroll through to the end for a novel idea on creating your own little designer matching button

Fasten off and weave in ends.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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I have a few dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go