PREEMIE
CAPS 18
FLOWER
CAPS
Thank you for joining me as we make some more preemie baby caps.
I found this absolutely
stunning selection of flower caps.. and these were just perfect to make as part of the donation I am working on. I
have made four cute little flowers, and there are four different ideas and
patterns for the green sepal tops for each.
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These caps have been donated between the Gold Coast Hospitals Foundation charity and the Redland Hospital Charity, Cleveland, Australia.
Redland Hospital Charity, Cleveland, Australia.
Materials used : Today I’ve used some of our lovely
Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarns with a 4 mm crochet hook
Skill level : Intermediate.
These patterns all use post stitches.
Abbreviations used :
ch
: chain ch-sp
: chain space
sp
: space rep
: Repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
dc : Double crochet
Stitches used :
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Front post single crochet : fpsc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch on the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fpsc at https://youtu.be/OQa8YLpkdXs
Back post single crochet : bpsc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpsc at https://youtu.be/L1K_MMLl-D4
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Instructions using U.S terminology
For
my preemie caps I have worked the pattern ensuring I have a total length of 4”
and a circumference of 12”. Please check the top of this blog for a sizing
chart.
1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the pattern sheet.
I
have worked in hdc all through for all my preemie caps.
In
general the pattern I’ve used for my caps is as follows.
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 10 hdc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
(10)
Round 2 :
(Increase round ) :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (20)
Round 3 :
(Increase round ) :
hdc in the 1st hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc ;
*hdc
in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (30)
Round 4 :
(Increase round ) :
hdc in the 1st 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc ;
*hdc
in the next 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (36)
Check
that your hat circumference is about 12” for preemie.
Round 5 :
hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (36)
Rep
Round 5 till you have a finished length of 4”.
After
making all these caps, I found that 36 hdc give me the circumference I need and
then I work without any increase till I have about 4 – 4.25” for my preemie
babies.
In case you can read charts, please visit the link now.
What
I have done for all my preemie caps, is to check to see if the pattern link
works (using my yarn and hook) – if it did not, then I worked my pattern
above and then embellished as instructed.
With
the embellishments too, if I had to reduce size (as my cap is so tiny), then I
reduced my hook size and/or tightened my stitch. I have also opted not to use any poly fill
stuffing (as these are for preemies) – but found that tightening the stitch did
hold the part up quite well. Hope this
works for you too
1.
Bluebell & Yellow morning glory caps
Aren’t
these just too beautiful ? I
couldn’t help myself.. I just went ahead and made this pattern in four colours. Let's see how you can resist them ;)
Materials used : Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5
mm & 4mm crochet hook
Skill level : Easy
Here’s
the pattern I worked for this cap. You
could work the basic pattern that I’ve written at the top as well, but for a
slight difference, I’ve worked a round of post stitches – and that helps define
the different petals.
I
have given ideas and patterns for three different types of sepals (green
top). Please check all the way down the blog to see which one you’d like.
Start Round 1: with a magic circle and 12 hdc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
(12)
In
the following round, we will work with post stitches.
As I am working with hdc, I opted to work a
front post half double crochet or fphdc.
Front post half double crochet : fphdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fphdc at https://youtu.be/R_dVr9FnBkk
Back post half double crochet : bphdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bphdc at https://youtu.be/9jJHgDX2MsE
Round 2 :
(Increase round ) :
hdc + fphdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all
around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (24)
Round 3 :
(Increase round ) :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc
;
*2
hdc in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (36)
Round 4 :
hdc in the 1st 2 hdc ;
fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc
in the next 2 hdc ; fphdc around the
next fphdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (36)
Round 5 :
hdc in the 1st hdc ; ch 1, hdc in the next hdc ;
fphdc around the
next fphdc ;
*hdc
in the next hdc ; ch 1, hdc in the next
hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (36)
In
the following round, we will work a “V”-st which is (hdc ; ch 1, hdc) all in
the same st or ch-sp.
Round 6 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp, “V”-st in the same 1st ch-1
sp ;
fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*“V”-st
in the next ch-1 sp ; fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Rep
Round 6 till you are about 3 rows away from the full length needed.
How
do you know when you are near the full length?
You
will need to calculate the length of the stitch and see how many inches you are
adding – so yes, you are working a gauge.
Now
just for convenience, I am going to continue numbering. You are not on Round 7 as you have
worked repeats to get it to the length needed – but you get that, right?
Round 7 :
hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;
hdc
in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc
in the next hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1
sp ; hdc in the next hdc ;
fphdc
around the next fphdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 8 :
hdc in the 1st hdc ; 3 dc in the next hdc ;
hdc
in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc
in the next hdc ; 3 dc in the next hdc ;
hdc in the next hdc ;
fphdc
around the next fphdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 9 :
hdc in the 1st 2 hdc ; 3 dc in the next hdc ;
hdc
in the next 2 hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc
in the next 2 hdc ; 3 dc in the next hdc
; hdc in the next 2 hdc ;
fphdc
around the next fphdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
For the stem 1 : For blue flower :
(green top bit) of this cap, I worked leaf
& stem patterns from the pumpkins (using a 3.5mm crochet hook) as
given and it worked right. Check my blog posted yesterday titled Preemie cap 17 (Thanksgiving series) for a look-see.
Scroll
down to the end of this blog for the second idea for stem.
1. Orange & Red caps
I
have worked the pattern almost similar to the beautiful bluebell cap, but I
just changed the “V”-st in the middle.
For
the orange cap, I started with 9 hdc.
For
the red cap, I started with 7 hdc.
Pattern
same for both. See which one works for
you.
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 9 hdc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
(9)
Round 2 :
(Increase round ) :
hdc + fphdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all
around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (18)
Round 3 :
(Increase round ) :
hdc in the 1st hdc ; ch 1, hdc in the next hdc ;
fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc
in the next hdc ;
ch 1, hdc in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
In
the following round, we will work a “V”-st which is (2 hdc ; ch 1, 2 hdc) all
in the same st or ch-sp.
Round 4 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp, “V”-st in the same 1st ch-1
sp ;
fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*“V”-st
in the next ch-1 sp ; fphdc around the next fphdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Rep
Round 4 till you are about 3 rows away from the full length needed.
How
do you know when you are near the full length?
You
will need to calculate the length of the stitch and see how many inches you are
adding – so yes, you are working a gauge.
Now
just for convenience, I am going to continue numbering.
Again,
you are not on Round 4 as you have worked repeats to get it to the
length needed – but you get that, right?
Round 5 :
hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;
hdc
in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc
in the next hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1
sp ; hdc in the next hdc ;
fphdc
around the next fphdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 6 :
hdc in the 1st hdc ; 3 dc in the next hdc ;
hdc
in the next hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc
in the next hdc ; 3 dc in the next hdc ;
hdc in the next hdc ;
fphdc
around the next fphdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 7 :
hdc in the 1st 2 hdc ; 3 dc in the next hdc ;
hdc
in the next 2 hdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc ;
*hdc
in the next 2 hdc ; 3 dc in the next hdc
; hdc in the next 2 hdc ;
fphdc
around the next fphdc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
For stem 2 : For yellow flower : (Using green)
Let’s
not join at the end of each round, but place a marker instead and work in
spirals for a seamless neat finish.
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 6 hdc in that circle.
Place
a marker in the 1st hdc. (6)
Rounds 2 - 4 : hdc in each hdc all around. (6)
Note :
Check the length that you get and decide how long you want this.
Work as many rounds as you want for length
(i.e as many rep as you need then carry on to Round 5).
Round 5 :
hdc in each hdc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (6)
We
will now create the sepals (green top) in a continuous movement. So first we will work the centre ribs of each
sepal and then come back and finish each one individually. Got it?
Round 6 :
*ch 7. Turn and sl-st in the 2nd ch from hk,
and
in each of the next 5 ch ; sl-st into the base of the ch ;
sl-st
in the next hdc* ;
rep
*to* 5 times all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6 long strips)
We
have made 6 long strips that are the centre ribs of each sepal. We will work all around these strips
individually now.
Round 7 :
*sc in the 1st st ; hdc in the next 2 sts ;
dc in the next 2 sts ; 3
dc in the last st ;
Turn and work around the other side of the strip ;
dc in the next 2 sts ; hdc in the next 2 sts ;
sc in the last st ; sl-st in the
base of st from Round 6* ;
rep
*to* 5 times all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten
off and leave a long chain to attach onto top of flower.
For stem 3 : For orange flower : (Using green)
I
changed the pattern just in Round 7 to get a slight different shape to the
sepal. So work Rounds 1 – 6 first.
Round 7 :
sc in the 1st st ;
(hdc + dc + hdc all in the next st) ;
*[sl-st
into the next st ; rep (to) in the next st] ;
rep
[to] once ;
sl-st
into the next st ;
Turn
and work around the other side of the strip ;
rep
[to] 3 times ;
sc in the last st ; sl-st in the base of st from Round 6* ;
rep
*to* 5 times all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten
off and leave a long chain to attach onto top of flower.
For stem 4 : For red flower : (Using green)
I
changed the pattern just in Round 7 to get a slight different shape to the
sepal. So once again, work Rounds 1 – 6
first.
Round 6 :
*ch 6. Turn ; dc in the 2nd ch from hk ;
dc
in the next ch ; dc + hdc in the next ch ;
hdc
in the next ch ; sc in the last ch ;
sl-st
into the base of this same ch ;
sl-st
in the next st* ;
rep
*to* 5 times all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6 long strips)
Fasten
off and leave a long chain to attach onto top of flower.
I’ve
had such fun creating these lovely hats here and I hope you have enjoyed it
too.
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my other creations.
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/peek-a-boo-infinity-cowl
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/manga-maalai-wrap
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/aasaan-wrap
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
.. and my gloves are at
Here are my headwear patterns
and some boleros / jacket / vests ...
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
and a doll’s top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go