CUTE IN PINK .. DE-MYSTIFIED
This is just an
explanation of what I’ve done with the pattern for this dress. This
original creation has been thought out in detail by some other genius, and I
take absolutely no credit for it.
However, the original stunner is
written in Russian(?) and after going through the chart, this is how I made the
dress – so I thought I’d just explain it out here. This dress can be
made to any size.
Instructions are given for making
this to the specific size that I have, and a general set of instructions for making
it to any size.
Please read through all my detailed
notes before you head off to make your own project. Cheers.
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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.
Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ about 1.5 skeins each of 2 colours of our lovely Indian Oswal acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Size made : For a 18 - 24 month old
You can make this to any size. Size only given for yarn estimation.
This dress is worked in two parts – we start with the yoke, which is from just under the armhole to the shoulders, and the neck is a squared one.
For the frilly lower part of the dress, we reattach to the first start line, and continue downwards.
Materials used : 4-ply baby wool from Stylecraft (0.6 skein = 506.40 m / 553.8 yds / 60 gms), with a 4 mm (US 6 , G) crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; stitch markers ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; buttons ; press buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or Alize knitting cotton yarns as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Gauge : Yoke : 2 dc rows x 5.5 dc stitches across = 1” ; Skirt : 2 shells (rows) x 1 shell across (where 1 shell = 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) = 1”
Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Whipstitch to join : at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/ or https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/ and
Pattern Instructions : (Using US terminology)
Instructions : Using US terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
I do not claim this to be my pattern , but here are my pattern notes as I make my own original project
I’ve made this dress for a 9 -12 month old Size 20 chest, and started with (14 sts x 3 sides) + (7 sts x 2 for back) = 56 fsc.
In the chart above, the ‘circles’ represent ch and the other symbol is for dc.
Now using the chart (as a guide for a square necked yoke, as the no. of sts used differ from our start count), start with 56 fsc if you too want this sized dress.
Please note however, that I’ve substituted the start ch line with fsc.
This pattern can be used to make a dress of any size.
As I have made a dress for a particular size, I am writing the specific instructions.
However, if you go to the top of this blog, you will see a link for a chart for 'general neck sizes'. These sizes coordinate with ages, and these are my "go-to" counts.
Using these numbers you can make the yoke for any size.
Thereafter , for the skirt portion, there is a stitch count given - and if you get that bit right too, you will make the dress for the size needed. Fun and easy enough, right?
PART 1 : YOKE
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Start with 56 fsc :
dc in 1st fsc ; dc in the next 5 fsc ;
2 dc in the next fsc ;
*ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc ; dc in the next 13 fsc ;
2 dc in next fsc* ;
rep from * to* twice till last 7 fsc ;
ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc ;
dc in each fsc till end. Turn. (8 sts increased)
Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
dc in ch-2 sp (at corner) ;
ch 2, dc in ch-sp ;
*dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in next dc ;
rep from (to) 6 times ;
dc in next dc ;
ch-1, dc in next dc ; ch 2* ;
rep from *to* twice ;
rep from (to) 3 times till end. Turn.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp) ;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2 ;
*2 dc in ch-2 sp ;
rep
from (to) 10 times ;
dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch-2* ;
rep from *to* twice
;
2 dc in ch-2 sp ;
rep
from (to) 4 times ;
dc in last 2 dc. Turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 five
times = yoke of length ~ 3.75 - 4” and width of 9.5-10”.
For start with 75 fsc : dc in the 1st fsc ;
dc in the next 7 fsc ; 2 dc in the next fsc ;
*ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in the next 17 fsc,
2 dc in next fsc* ;
2 dc in next fsc* ;
rep from * to* twice till last 9 fsc ;
ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc ;
dc in each fsc till end. Turn. (8 sts increased)
dc in each fsc till end. Turn. (8 sts increased)
Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) ;
rep from (to) 4 times ;
dc in ch-2 sp (at corner) ;
ch 2, dc in ch-sp ;
*dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc ;
rep from (to) 9 times ;
dc in next dc ;
ch-1, dc in next dc ; ch 2* ;
ch-1, dc in next dc ; ch 2* ;
rep from *to* twice ;
rep from (to) 5 times till end. Turn.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp) ;
rep from (to) 4 times ;
dc in next dc ;
2 dc in ch-2 sp ; ch 2 ;
2 dc in ch-2 sp ; ch 2 ;
*2 dc in ch-2 sp ;
rep from (to) 12 times ;
dc in next dc ;
2 dc in ch-2 sp ; ch-2* ;
2 dc in ch-2 sp ; ch-2* ;
rep from *to* twice ;
2 dc in ch-2 sp ;
rep from (to) 5 times ;
dc in last 2 dc. Turn.
dc in last 2 dc. Turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 three times, and then Row 2 once more = yoke of ~ 3.75 - 4” and width of 11 – 11.5”.
General Start :
Look at the chart (top of this blog - "chart for neck sizes", and see which size suits your child.
So just to get this going, let's look at one for 18-24 months (meses) and the start there is with 66 stitches (cadenas).
The break up is 10 + 13 + 20 + 13 + 10. So this means that there are 20 sts each for back and front, and 13 each for the shoulder/sides.
The back is broken into 10+10 to accommodate the button flap.
So if you are using these charts, you need to do the following :
a) Find which chart suits your child
b) Place a marker at the stitch as per the numbers given. So for the above chart, you'd have one on the 10th, then 13th after that , then 20th after that.. so on till the end.
c) The four markers that you will place, will be your four corners.
d) Row 2 below tells you what stitch to use till corner, and what to do at each corner. Follow these instructions and you're on your way to making it just right for your baby girl.
e) Remember though that Row 2 is giving instructions specifically for a start with 56 fsc.
If you are not starting with 56 fsc, then the rep (to) will differ.
So for example, it reads rep (to) 3 or 6 times in Row 2, but you may have to work a different count.
Just remember that you work the pattern not the repeat count between corners, and you work the pattern stitches at the corners as given.
After completion of yoke and
before starting on the skirt portion, I worked 2 rows of sc for placket along the
back edge, ensuring I made the button holes for my buttons on the left hand
side, and then joined the placket at the bottom edge, so it is now
easier to calculate stitches for start of skirt portion.
PART 2 : SKIRT
For the skirt portion,
we will work in rounds.
Please join your yoke up on the last round (with
a sl-st in the 1st st).
The stitch
count for the skirt part is in multiples of 15 sts , so ensure you are
in multiples thereof all around.
A quick idea : If you want to make your dress more flared (as
against the "A"-line I have made), you need to increase the
number of stitches you start with, keeping it still in multiples of 15
So figure out how flared you want it, add in the stitches and
let's start on the skirt.
The chart is in blue for
every alternate row, and the joining chains are shown in red
Each large shell in this
pattern is made up of 4 rows of shells, as explained below
Round 1 : Shell is 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc
Round 2 : Shell is dc in 1st 3 dc ;
2 dc in ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 2 dc in ch-5 sp ; dc in last 3 dc
Round 3 : Shell is dc in 1st 5 dc ;
2 dc in ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 2 dc in ch-5 sp ; dc in last 5 dc
Round 4 : Shell is dc in 1st 7 dc ;
2 dc in ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, dc in last 7 dc.
The joining chain between two sets of shells is a ch-5. In the last join, instead of sl-st into the ch (as we usually do to join a round), sometimes the join is with a dc / trc or dbl trc as below
Joining for Round 1 : ch 3, 1 dc (so you are where you need to be to start with ch-5 for Round 2)
Joining for Round 2 : Join with a regular ch-5
Joining for Round 3 : Join with a double treble – (which means you loop your yarn around hook 5 times)
How to work a Double Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times.
One trc made.
Joining for Round 4
: Join to the top of the 1st dc
For those of you who can somewhat follow a chart, please use these
steps above, so you can try to improve your chart reading skills.
You can
take a sneak peek to see that you are doing it right, as I am giving the
detailed instructions below.
Please do not get confused with the duplicate
set of instructions.
So for a more detailed
instruction, let's get down to the nitty gritty.
Please look at joining
instructions here and try to follow chart as well.
Round 1 : sc in the 1st st ;
*ch 5, sk next 3 sts, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in the next st ;
[ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in the next st] ;
rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 3, and dc to join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
As we used a dc to join, you are now in the center of the last ch-5 sp.
Round 2 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;
*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
ch 5, dc in the next 3 dc ;
(2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
dc in the next 3 dc ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 5, and dc to join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;
*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
ch 5, dc in the next 5 dc ;
(2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
dc in the next 5 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a dtr (double treble) to the 1st st.
Check the video for a dtr / Double treble
Round 4 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;
*ch 5, dc in the next 7 dc ;
(2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
dc in the next 7 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rep Rounds 1 - 4 to get the length needed.
Remember that with each round, you are working only in the ch-2 sp of the shell from the earlier round, and that's how your pattern grows in length.
PART 3 : FINISHING IDEAS
And now to return to the finishing for our lovely dress – I did a quick Shell (similar to that used in Round 1) all around the armhole , so here my repeat was *shell in dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk 2 dc* all the way around.
To complete, buttons in the back placket and a lovely pink satin ribbon threaded through the last row of ‘holes’ in the yoke to complete the top portion of your dress.
For the base of the skirt, I just thought I’d throw in a few picot (ch 3, sl-st into the top of dc). So sc in each dc till the top (or bottom) of the “V” end points of the chevron as shown below, with an sc in all the other dc.
How to picot : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
In case the video doesn't come on, go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !
I am sure you enjoyed this, so do come back right here for more
free patterns
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and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Here are some of my tops
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
Here is a list of my earlier miscellaneous home use projects. Enjoy
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