PEACH MELBA BABY DRESS
This is a really pretty dress. What drew me to it more was the name of it,
and then of course I noticed the pattern was a little different from the
shelled one’s I’ve made in the recent past.
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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.
Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ about 100 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal acrylic 3-ply yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; a little embroidery thread ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Stitches used :
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing
Abbreviations used :
ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)
dc : Double crochet hk : Hook
st(s) : Stitch(es)
sk : Skip sp : space
rep : repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
Instructions
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This is not my pattern. Get this free pattern at
My notes here are for the few things I worked
differently.
May I suggest that you read through my notes
first and then go along to get the dress pattern done at the link above – just
so you can have an idea of what all you need to do and where to get it all
at. Sorry that you need to zip between two different places,
but you know I always add something to each of my creations, so I think zipping
is worth it J Cheers.
1. Start Belt row :
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
I started with a fsc chain for the belt (with
off white – which is my Contrast Colour (CC), and worked a row of (dc ; ch 1, dc) in my Main
Colour (MC ; followed by a row of sc in each dc and ch-1 sp all the way
through (in CC) to make up my belt.
This
way, I can use the ch-1 sps to thread in a thin satin ribbon. So width-wise, I will still have only 2 rows
– just like the designer, and can still use her gauge and her calculations
Instead of working a few rows
each in MC and CC, I decided to add my CC right at the bottom as a frill and
have it start out from underneath such that the MC popped out in a shelled
scallop on the 2nd last round with a row of CC shells peeping
out
right at the bottom.
2.
Round
neck shaping :
I found that the neckline seems
a bit too wide for the baby I’m making this for.
I therefore ran another row of decreases
using the neckline templates (for stitch count) that I always use
(Check the
top of this blog for links for neckline and body size)
Ensure that you keep with the
shoulder sizing as needed for the baby (once again check the links for sizing
charts) when reducing the round neck.
I have also kept a small back
opening where I will affix a set of buttons.
I always like a back opening when working on baby clothes for ease of
wear.
3.
Collar
I thought a collar would look
good – like the designer has in her photograph… but the collar by the designer
is made with cloth. I am going to
attempt to make a Peter-Pan-like collar.
First off note that I have a
back opening, which I think is necessary if you are working a collar, as your
neckline will need to be a lot higher than if it were an open necked
dress. So I have worked 2 rows more,
decreasing a little each row, to bring the neckline close before starting on
the collar.
So first off, calculations
1)
Count the stitches,
and mark the centre stitch (i.e centre front) which will be the centre
for both sides of your collar.
2) Divide both sides in half and mark the centre point,
which will be the shoulder mark. Ensure
that this marker does sit on the shoulder.
3) We are going to use the same pattern for the collar as we’ve
used for the skirt portion of the dress.
Our stitch count is in multiples of 6, so you will need to have a
multiple of 6 + 4 for each side of your collar around the neckline before
you start. In case you have more than needed, do not worry, just
work extra dc 2-tog at the start and end, so that by the time you end Row 2,
you have the number of stitches needed to work the shelled pattern per the
designer’s pattern sheet.
Single crochet back loop only (sc-blo) : https://youtu.be/TaQI3Vu9VRQ
Row 1 : (with the wrong side of work facing you) :
Work 1 sc-blo
(single crochet back loop only) in each stitch till the end. Turn.
We will now work only one
side of our collar at a time.
So we
will start from the end (i.e back opening) and work till the centre front and
then back to the end again.
Once you are
done with one side of the collar, you will repeat all instructions for the
other side.
At any time, if you decide
to make any changes in this (to suit your ease etc), please make notes and
repeat those instructions for the other side.
Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :
Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whlsMemDHLc
Rows 2 & 3 : (with the right side of work facing you) :
sc 2-tog over the
1st 2 sc ; sc in each sc till the last 2 sc ;
sc 2-tog over the last
2 sc. Turn.
Rows 4 & 5 : sc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end. Turn.
Row 6 : sc in the 1st sc ;
*sk next sc, 5 dc in the next
sc ; sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
In case you wish to have a
picot in this pattern, then work (3 dc + picot + 2 dc) instead of the 5 dc.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
For the picot, I’ve decided to
use a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk).
For this round, I’ve adapted
Round 2 from the designers pattern sheet for shell pattern
Repeat these instructions for
the 2nd side of the collar.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
4.
Border
row
You will end with a Round 2
(shelled round) as per pattern by the designer.
I then attached my CC yarn to
the Round 4 (all dc round that you have just worked 2 rows below) and
worked a fpdc (front post double crochet – check for a ‘how to’ at the top of
this blog) into every third dc. So how
does this work? Looks a little
complicated, but it isn’t!
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
You will basically follow what
we’ve been doing for Round 3 –
So : fpdc in the 1st
st ; ch 2, sk next 2 sts and then work a fpdc in the next st.
So you will end up with a set
of fpdc and ch-2 sps, right?
Now you will work a small
variation of Round 1, which I am going to call New Round 1 for ease.
New Round 1 : dc in the 1st
st ;
*ch 2, sc in the next dc ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc* ; rep *to* till
end.
All you will need to ensure is
that you have the dcs and scs in the same sts as you have from your earlier
rounds, so that you can then work Round 2 in the CC again. Got it?
Depending on how long you want
this frill and your dress, continue working in pattern, and as the designer has
suggested, end with a Round 2.
Just for a difference (again),
you could work a picot in the middle dc of the 5-dc set. I have decided to use a ch-3 picot, which is
(ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk).
Check the top of this blog for a “How to”.
In case you are working the
picot, then the pattern will read slightly differently. Let’s call this New Round 2.
New Round 2 : ch 1 , *sc in the
dc ;
(3 dc + picot + 2 dc) all in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around
and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
And just for kicks.. here’s a
final tweak. If you are using a really
thin yarn, you could decide to use a trc (Triple / treble crochet stitch)
instead of the dc – and you’ll see what a totally different end effect you get
of this as well.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
5.
Sleeves
For the sleeves, I’m going to
give you two options.
In both cases, first run a
round of sc all around the armhole edge.
Remember as usual, that you will work one sc in each st, and 2 sc per
horizontal bar of dc. Ensure that you have
an even number of sc when you finish.
Once again, depending on how
puffy and full you want your sleeve, work the distance between your first round
of stitches. The closer you work this 1st
round, the more puffy it will be.. so this means that if you sk 3 sc, you will
get it less puffy , and if you sk just 1 sc, it will be more puffy. Got it?
If you are working the simple
sliver of a sleeve, then we do not want too much of puffiness.
5A.
So first let’s see how I’ve
worked the Simple Sliver Sleeve.
I have decided to work the same
pattern as we have worked for the dress, so if you decide to do that too,
ensure that you have a multiple of 4 all around.
Round 1 : sc in the 1st st and in each st all
around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Note : Remember when you are working along the vertical bar of a
dc, work 2 sts, and work 1 st in each sc or ch-1 sp as applicable.
Round 2 : (which is a slight
change from Round 2 of the designer’s pattern sheet) :
sc in the 1st st ;
*sk next st, 5 dc in the next st ; sk next st , sc in the next st* ;
rep *to*
all around
and join with a sc to the last st.
In case you want to work in a
picot, then work (3 dc + picot + 2 dc) instead of 5 dc all around.
This will give you a tiny
sliver of a sleeve. In case you are
happy with this, then fasten off and weave in ends. In case you want a longer sleeve, repeat the
pattern instructions for the shelled pattern, working off our New Round 2.
Continue till you get the
length needed.
Rep these instructions for the
2nd sleeve as well.
5B. Puffed Sleeve
Ideas
.. and now for the puffier
puffed sleeve (which I have not made for this creation, but do let me know how
this works out – and of course when you make this, do tag me when you share
your creation)
In case you want a puffed
sleeve, then what I would do is I’d work more rounds of the skirt
pattern (basically continuing with the pattern after the Round 2 above) ; and
about ½” before the required length, I’d work 2-3 rounds of sc to tighten the
end. The main thing in getting a puffed
sleeve is working more stitches in pattern than you need. This means that you will need to tweak the
start round of stitches and have 1/3rd more stitches than the round
armhole has – so you will need to increase stitches along that first round,
still keeping the stitch count of 4 for that first round.
Once you have more stitches
than needed, work the pattern as normal.
For the last ½” then, you will need to decrease the stitches so
that you get the puffed effect and get it to fit around the arm of the baby.
6.
Final
touch : You can add a small rose and a satin ribbon. The satin ribbon is of course, store bought..
and for the motifs, check out this link and you can also make some fun stuff
for hair.. and which little girl doesn’t like stuff for hair.. so create.. and
spread smiles.
Fasten all ends and block as
per yarn instructions.
And that’s done.. yet another
project brilliantly executed !
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I have a few dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Here are some of my tops
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
Here is a list of my earlier miscellaneous home use projects. Enjoy
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