Sweet Nothings Crochet: LAVENDER PINEAPPLE BABY DRESS

LAVENDER PINEAPPLE BABY DRESS

My cup overfloweth (of cute baby dresses ;) ).. and here’s another order fulfilled.. A client saw my first red baby dress put up just a few days ago and said she wanted one “just like that” for a friend’s first granddaughter. I have just finished making a white ‘n pink layered baby dress (which she loved too). When I posted my red dress on Facebook, someone mentioned pineapples and how they looked lovely on baby dresses.. so I thought I’d add a small pineapple ending to the simple shell and make something different.

I trolled through Google images and Pinterest for inspiration, and I found this chart which is “just” what I was thinking of doing anyway.. now I don’t need to rack my head to get the numbers right. Thank you Google

The chart I found has this project made. I am going to go in a slightly different direction with the yoke, playing with the yarn(s) I have in hand, so come along and let’s see what we are working on today.

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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

Materials used : Today I’ve just just under 3 skeins (50 gm each skein) of a really soft unbranded knitting cotton from Australia ; plus about one ball of our Indian Anchor knitting cotton for the off white yoked portion , all with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; a little embroidery thread ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; buttons; press buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette ; beads n more

For Indians : You could use Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced skill level

Stitches used : Using U.S terminology

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

or https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/ and

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

Abbreviations used :

ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)

dc : Double crochet hk : Hook

st(s) : Stitch(es) sl-st : slip stitch

sk : Skip sp : space

rep : repeat

fsc : Foundation single crochet

Instructions

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today. With this stunningly simple pattern, we’re going to work a raglan like yoke from the neck down to the chest.

We will then check the stitch count for the skirt portion of the dress, and work the shell pattern with the lovely pineapple border to complete this project.

Remember that you need to work a back placket opening for the child, and I suggest that you keep it open say till the waist for a younger child. If you are making this for an older child, and you feel that the neck opening will allow the dress to slip through without a problem, I’d say you work a few rows back and forth for the top and then join up and work in rounds. You would, then, not need to work a placket as you could just attach a hook/eye right at the top.

Part 1 : Front & Back Yoke

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start : with fsc using one the charts given (for the neck sizing) above depending on the age /size of child you are making this dress for.

As I have you captive here, let me throw in a few thoughts.

I have been often asked how I figure out the size using different yarn. I don’t.. I also do a little bit of trial and error. The charts have been set out and I have found that the charts that I share here do work (for me) – but what one should remember is that the age of the child (though important) is not as important as the size.

So once you get the chest size (for example) but thanks to the yarn you are using or say the hook size, and you find that you have not got the length needed - *Do Not Worry* .. this is where your creativity comes in.. you just continue on till you get the length.

If the chart given for a 0-6m does not work for your 0-6m child, that is not a worry either.. there are so many charts on that link.. just work one size up or down to fit your child.

Sadly, when I am asked a question about how you can get it to fit, this is all I can say – as I do not know the size you are looking at /for and even if you do give me those details, I can only give you ideas – you would have to physically pick up that yarn and hook and work at it. Experimentation is a great teacher .. and the creation is a wonderful WOW factor!

So let’s get that hook n yarn going.. shall we?

From the following row on, we will be working on different sizes – so here’s what I suggest.

You take a look at the neck sizing chart , see the number of start stitches you need and first mark out the stitch for the four corners. (“Cadenas” = stitches / meses = months / anos = years)

I will now give you instructions on what you will do from one marker to the next.

I suggest that we work from the centre back, past the armholes to the front and then around the 2^nd armhole to the centre back again in one continuous row. Remember that you will work side to side only for as long as you want that back opening.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc and in each fsc till the 1^st marker ;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same 1^st marked stitch ;

*dc in each fsc till the next marker ;

rep (to) in the marked stitch* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

You can now remove the markers.

Our corners are the ch-2 sps that we have just created.

We will work the next 2-dc sets in that ch-2 sp in each row.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc till the 1^st ch-2 sp;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same 1^st ch-2 sp ;

*dc in each fsc till the next ch-2 sp ;

rep (to) in the same ch-2 sp* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Rep Row 2 till you have the shoulder width / chest width / armhole measurements as per the chart or as per the child measurements.

Once you have got the above measurements, we will join the two corners under the armhole to then (a) work in rounds and (b) increase the length of the yoke till the waist level… or the level you wish to start the skirt portion from.

So to join the front and back yoke, you will work all the way in dc till the 1^st ch-2 corner sp, skip all the next stitches till the next ch-2 corner sp and join the 1^st and 2^nd corner sps. You will then work all the way till the 3^rd ch-2 corner sp and once again join the 3^rd and 4^th corner sps. In this way, you have a front and back along with two armholes created all in one go.

Now after a few rows, you will need to join up to create an armhole opening. So back to the same neck chart. There are two charts per age category.

The 2^nd one has cms in it, and that’s the length/width of that section.

So let’s look at the charts for 0-6 months (meses).

The chart shows 7 cm for shoulder width, and 8.5 – 9 cm for length from shoulder to armhole for the round arm opening.

So this means that once you have 9 cm from top of (folded) shoulder, you can join the back and front of your work to get the armhole opening.

For joining, you will use the (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) to join the front and back of yoke.

This means that you will first fold the yoke down, and work 2 dc in one corner ch-2 sp, skip all the stitches in between and work a ch 2, and 2 dc in the next corner ch-2 sp. This will create one armhole.

You will then work down the front of the yoke, and repeat (to) in the next 2 set of corners to create the next armhole opening.

You will now continue increasing the front length if desired, till you have the length needed till the waist before you start the skirt portion.

Once again, you need to decide how long you want this portion – if you want a nice “hipster” dress (i.e skirt that comes from the hips ;) ), you can continue working this pattern all the way till the hips. I have worked till the waist.

So how long do you work? Easy – once again, do refer to the charts given above for lengths of skirts as well as regular lengths of yoke etc and make a creative decision.

Part 2 : Skirt portion of dress

For the skirt we will work in one piece, so ensure that you join the two parts of the yoke back in the last row of work, in case you have not joined already.

Our stitch count is multiples of 12.

So when you are ready to start on your skirt, ensure that you have the stitch count right.

How do you do this? Count the stitches on that first starting skirt round and work one round of sc all around, ensuring that you get the right stitch count. So if you are a few stitches short, just add them neatly while working this sc round. At the end of this round, you will have the right number of stitches for the skirt portion of our dress.

As I have said in my blogs before, depending on how much flare you wish for your skirt, increase the number of stitches (still keeping the stitch count multiples right) so that you get a better flare.

For this pattern too, I’d suggest that while you work the pattern, work with the few ideas I’ve written below.

I would also like to add that though I have indicated number of row repeats, I would suggest that you work it your own way with these ideas in mind :

a) Work a few rows and see how many inches you get (in length) per row – i.e work out your gauge

b) Decide how long you want your skirt part and the whole dress from shoulder down

c) Working with your gauge, figure out how many rows you can repeat with the pattern. So say I have indicated 2 rows per increase, you could work more rows if you are not getting as much as a length increase as needed

d) With this pattern, as with many of my earlier patterns, I urge you to be creative and explore the pattern a bit.

May I also suggest that you start at the back of the dress for a neat finish.

For the skirt portion, we have a “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Depending on how much flare you wish for your skirt, you can either continue with the same “V”-st or work 2 more dc, so your “V”-st could also be (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp. This also means that you can start with the 1^st “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc), and then change to a “V”-st that has 3 dc in it. However, as this is only an idea, and not per chart, I will leave this choice to you.

Round 1 : “V”-st in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 1, sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

From this round on, we will always be working a “V”-st in the ch-2 sp of the earlier “V”-st.

Rounds 2 - 4 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st , “V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st , “V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Now here’s where we will all need to make a few calculations.

Stop and check the length of your skirt and/or the project from shoulder down.

See how long you wish to make your dress.

We have a pineapple border that is a total of 15 rows.

So here’s what you need to do.

You need to see how many inches you are adding in 15 rows.

So let’s assume 15 rows = 4.5”, and you are working a length of 16”, then you will work rep of Round 5 till your project (from shoulder) is 11.5” leaving 4.5” that will be your border. Got it?

So continue working Round 5 till you reach the length you need before the border. We’ll meet back shortly to work the border pineapple together.

And welcome back.. so let’s now work on the final few rounds for the pineapple border.

For convenience, I am going to continue numbering from Round 5, so though you have obviously done a lot more rows, as they were all the same pattern, I’m going to number the next one as Round 6.

Round 6 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 7 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 2, 2 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till the end ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 8 - 9 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till the end ;

ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 10 : (dc ; ch 5, dc) in the 1^st “V”-st ;

ch 4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

*ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 4, rep (to) once ;

ch 4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 11 : dc in the 1^st dc ; 7 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc in the next dc ;

*ch 4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc ;

ch 4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 4, (dc in the next dc ; 7 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;

ch 4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 12 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 7 times ;

*ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc ;

ch 4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 2, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 8 times* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 13 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ;

[ch 4, dc in the next dc] ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) 7 times* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 14 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

[ch 3, dc in the next dc ; 5 dc in the next ch-4 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the next dc] ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) 6 times* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 15 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, dc in the next dc ;

[ch 1, dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] 5 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) 5 times* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 16 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, dc in the next dc ;

[ch 1, dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] 5 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) 4 times* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 17 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, dc in the next dc ;

[ch 2, dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] 5 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) 3 times* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 18 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ;

[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] 5 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 19 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;

[ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc] ;

rep [to] 5 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Round 20 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same ch-3 sp ;

*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;

[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] 5 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Now we end here at the sc, but we need to be in the previous “V”-st as we are going to now join the first two “V”-sts together. So what I have done is turn my work and work along the back or wrong side and sl-st to get into the previous “V”-st ; sc in that “V”-st and then turn back again to face the right side so that we are now working the way we should. Got it?

I am sure there may be an easier way to get this done, but any way that gets you into the last “V”-st before the end … that’s good as long as it it works for you J

So get into that ch-sp of the last “V”-st..

Round 21 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

sk next 2 ch-3 sps and sc, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

*ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ;

[ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc] ;

rep [to] 5 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

sk next 2 ch-3 sps and sc, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Read Note before you work this last round.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

Last Round 22 : dc 2-tog in the 1^st “V”-st ;

dc 2-tog in the next “V”-st ;

*ch 5, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ;

[ch 6, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;

rep [to] 5 times ;

ch 5, dc 2-tog in the next “V”-st ;

sk next 2 ch-3 sps and sc, dc 2-tog in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till the end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

Note : You could decide to work a picot in each dc 2-tog and / or dc 3-tog set.

If you want a nice heavy base that will hold well, you could decide to take the trouble to run a round of sc all around (so that will then be Round 23), working 1 sc in each ch, and 1 sc + picot in every dc 2-tog & 3-tog set as well.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 3 : Sleeves

For the sleeves, I’m going to give you two options. I’ve decided to make them a thin sliver of lavender, but you choose your sleeve.

In both cases, first run a round of sc all around the armhole edge. Remember as usual, that you will work one sc in each st, and 2 sc per horizontal bar of dc. Ensure that you have an even number of sc when you finish.

Once again, depending on how puffy and full you want your sleeve, work the distance between your first round of stitches. The closer you work this 1^st round, the more puffy it will be.. so this means that if you sk 3 sc, you will get it less puffy , and if you sk just 1 sc, it will be more puffy. Got it?

If you are working the simple sliver of a sleeve, then we do not want too much of puffiness.

So first let’s see how I’ve worked the Simple Sliver Sleeve.

Round 1 : (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) in the 1^st sc ;

*sk next 2 sc, rep (to) in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In the following row, we will work in each “V”-st except the 1^st and last “V’-sts.

Row 2 : sl-st past the 1^st “V”-st and into the next ch-1 sp of the next “V”-st ;

“V”-st in that same “V”-st ;

“V”-st in each “V”-st till the 2^nd last “V”-st from end. Turn.

Once again, in the following row, we will work in each “V”-st except the 1^st and last “V’-sts.

Row 3 : Rep Row 2.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rep these instructions for the 2^nd sleeve as well.

Puffed Sleeve

.. and now for the puffier puffed sleeve (which I have not made, but do let me know how this works out – and of course when you make this, do tag me when you share your creation)

Round 1 : (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) in the 1^st sc ;

*sk next 2 sc, rep (to) in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Rounds 2 - 4 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp and in each ch-1 sp all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In our following decrease row, we will work an sc in the ch-sp and one sc in the sp between 2 sts, avoiding all the dc stitches all around.

Round 5 : (Decrease row) :

sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ; sc in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*sk the next 2 dc, sc in the sp between the next 2 sts ;

sk the next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp*

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Note : Check to see if you think the round arm will fit the baby or will be too loose, and work a further decrease row accordingly.

Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :

Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whlsMemDHLc

Round 6 : (Decrease row) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

*sc 2 tog over the next 2 sc* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Note : Check to see if you think the round arm will fit the baby. If you think this is too tight, then go back and change the decrease a bit… work a sc 2-tog over every alternate set of stitches and see if that works for you.

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Round 7 : hdc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 8 : hdc in the 1^st hdc and in each hdc all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the 2^nd armhole as well.

Part 4 : Finishing

Run a round of sc all around the neckline, with contrasting colour, if you have used two colours. Fasten all ends and block as per yarn instructions.

Part 5 : Accessories

I have made a set of accessories to match this outfit – a belt that doubles as a headband, and a few motifs that can be used as hair pins or on rubber bands.

Check https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2017/06/cute-little-flower-motifs-headband.html for all of this.

Do also check out this link and for some fun stuff for hair.. and which little girl doesn’t like stuff for hair.. right? ;)

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2017/01/some-more-fun-curly-wurlies-scrunchies.html

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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Have a great day and see you soon.

I have a few dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go