Sweet Nothings Crochet: CHANDU’s SHELLED BABY DRESS 1

This is the first of two dresses that are being made for a really special friend’s twin granddaughters. I have a vision in my mind and I am *hoping* that these dresses do that vision justice.

I’m glad that you’re back here with me as we explore this new creation together.

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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

Materials used : Today I’ve used just over one skein / 140 gms of a really soft unbranded knitting cotton 4-ply yarn, with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; buttons; press buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette ; beads n more

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Skill level : Intermediate

Size : I have made this for a 2-year old, but this can be made for any size.

Size only given fo yarn estimation

Stitches used : Using U.S terminology

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

or https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/ and

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

Abbreviations used :

ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)

dc : Double crochet hk : Hook

st(s) : Stitch(es) sl-st : slip stitch

sk : Skip sp : space

rep : repeat

fsc : Foundation single crochet

Instructions

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

This is not my original pattern. I found a convenient chart on the internet and inspired by this, this is what I have created.

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my original notes that I share with you.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.

With this stunningly simple pattern, we’re going to work a raglan like yoke from the neck down to the chest.

We will then check the stitch count for the skirt portion of the dress and , and work the shell pattern to complete this project.

Remember that you need to work a back placket opening for the child, and I suggest that you keep it open all the way to the start row for a younger child.

Part 1 : Front (Make one piece)

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start : with fsc using one the charts given for the neckline above depending on the age /size of child you are making this dress for.

As I have you captive here, let me throw in a few thoughts.

I have been often asked how I figure out the size using different yarn. I don’t.. I also do a little bit of trial and error. The charts have been set out and I have found that the charts that I share here do work (for me) – but what one should remember is that the age of the child (though important) is not as important as the size. So once you get the chest size (for example) but thanks to the yarn you are using or say the hook size, and you find that you have not got the length needed - *Do Not Worry* .. this is where your creativity comes in.. you just continue on till you get the length.

If the chart given for a 0-6m does not work for your 0-6m child, that is not a worry either.. there are so many charts on that link.. just work one size up or down to fit the child.

Sadly, when I am asked a question about how you can get it to fit, this is all I can say – as I do not know the size you are looking at /for and even if you do give me those details, I can only give you ideas – you would have to physically pick up that yarn and hook and work at it.

So let’s get that hook n yarn going.. shall we?

From the following row on, we will be working on different sizes – so here’s what I suggest. You take a look at the chart and first mark out the stitch for the four corners. I will now give you instructions on what you will do from one marker to the next.

I suggest that we work from the centre back, past the armholes to the front and then around the 2^nd armhole to the centre back again in one continuous row.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc and in each fsc till the 1^st marker ;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same 1^st marked stitch ;

*dc in each fsc till the next marker ;

rep (to) in the marked stitch* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

You can now remove the markers.

Our corners are the ch-2 sps that we have just created.

We will work the next 2-dc sets in that ch-2 sp in each row.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc till the 1^st ch-2 sp;

(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same 1^st ch-2 sp ;

*dc in each fsc till the next ch-2 sp ;

rep (to) in the same ch-2 sp* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Rep Row 2 till you have the shoulder width / chest width / armhole measurements as per the chart or as per the child measurements.

Once you have got the above measurements, we will join the two corners under the armhole to then (a) work in rounds and (b) increase the length of the yoke till the waist level… or the level you wish to start the skirt portion from.

So to join the front and back yoke, you will work all the way in dc till the 1^st ch-2 corner sp, skip all the next stitches till the next ch-2 corner sp and join the 1^st and 2^nd corner sps. You will then work all the way till the 3^rd ch-2 corner sp and once again join the 3^rd and 4^th corner sps. In this way, you have a front and back along with two armholes created all in one go.

You will now continue increasing the front length if desired, till you have the length needed before you start the skirt portion.

So how long do you work? Easy – once again, do refer to the charts given above for lengths of skirts as well as regular lengths of yoke etc and make a creative decision.

Part 2 : Skirt portion of dress

For the skirt we will work in one piece, so ensure that you join the two parts of the yoke back in the last row of work.

Our stitch count is multiples of 7.

So when you are ready to start on your skirt, ensure that you have the stitch count right.

As I have said in my blogs before, depending on how much flare you wish for your skirt, increase the number of stitches (still keeping the multiples right) so that you get a better flare.

I would also like to add that though I have indicated number of row repeats, I would suggest that you work it your own way with these ideas in mind :

a) Work a few rows and see how many inches you get (in length) per row – i.e work out your gauge

b) Decide how long you want your skirt part and the whole dress from shoulder down

c) Working with your gauge, figure out how many rows you can repeat with the pattern. So say I have indicated 2 rows per increase, you could work more rows if you are not getting as much as a length increase as needed

d) With this pattern, as with many of my earlier patterns, I urge you to be creative and explore the pattern a bit.

In this part of the pattern, we also use the fpdc or front post double crochet.

May I also suggest that you start at the back of the dress for a neat finish.

From the very first stitch, we will start with a post stitch – fpdc. To get the stitch right, I suggest we start with a ch-1, which does not count as a stitch, but just to get the fpdc right.

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Round 1 : ch 1, fpdc in the 1^st dc ;

sk next 2 dc, (3 dc in the next dc ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same dc) ;

*sk next 2 dc, fpdc in the next dc ;

sk next 2 dc, (3 dc in the next dc ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same dc)* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

From this round on, we will always be working a fpdc around the fpdc of the earlier round, and we will work the other set of stitches in the ch-sp of the earlier set of stitches, skipping all the dc in between. Got it?

Rounds 2 & 3 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp , (3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-2 sp);

*fpdc in the next fpdc ;

rep (to) once in the next ch-2 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Please remember the points I’ve raised just above as you jump into the next set of pattern and increases.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp, (4 dc in the next ch-3 sp;

ch 3, 4 dc in the same ch-2 sp);

*fpdc in the next fpdc ;

rep (to) once in the next ch-2 sp * ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ,

(4 dc in the next ch-3 sp;

ch 3, 4 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;

*fpdc in the next fpdc ;

rep (to) once in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Rounds 6 & 7 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ,

(5 dc in the next ch-3 sp;

ch 3, 5 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;

*fpdc in the next fpdc ;

rep (to) once in the next ch-3 sp * ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

As you can see, we are slowly increasing the number of stitches in our shelled pattern. With every slow increase, we are increasing the flare of our lovely dress.

Round 8 & 9 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ,

(6 dc in the next ch-3 sp;

ch 3, 6 dc in the same ch-3 sp);

*fpdc in the next fpdc ;

rep (to) once in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 10 - 13 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ,

(7 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, 7 dc in the same dc) all in the same 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*fpdc in the next fpdc ;

rep (to) once in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Put your work down and check the length of your dress.

If you feel you have the length needed, please move to the Last round instructions.

Round 14 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ,

(8 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, 8 dc in the same dc) all in the same 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*fpdc in the next fpdc ;

rep (to) once in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Continue working Round 14 till your dress is about the length needed.

For our last round, you can decide to work a picot in the middle of your shell pattern. This is optional and you can well decide to just leave it as a ch-3 sp as well.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

We will work a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3^rd ch from hk).

Last Round : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ,

(8 dc in the next dc ;

ch 1 + picot + ch 1, 8 dc in the same dc) all in the same 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*fpdc in the next fpdc ;

rep (to) once in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Final touch : You can add a small rose and a satin ribbon.

The satin ribbon is of course, store bought.. and for the small rose, check out this link and you’ll get not only the rose but also some fun stuff for hair.. and which little girl doesn’t like stuff for hair.. so have fun.

Part 3 : Sleeves

For the sleeves, I’ve decided to make them oversized and puffed. For this, first run a round of sc all around the armhole edge. Remember as usual, that you will work one sc in each st, and 2 sc per horizontal bar of dc. Ensure that you have an even number of sc when you finish.

Round 1 : (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) in the 1^st sc ;

*sk next sc, rep (to) in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Rounds 2 - 4 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp and in each ch-1 sp all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In our following decrease row, we will work an sc in the ch-sp and one sc in the sp between 2 sts, avoiding all the dc stitches all around.

Round 5 : (Decrease row) :

sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ; sc in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*sk the next 2 dc, sc in the sp between the next 2 sts ;

sk the next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp*

rep *to* all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Note : Check to see if you think the round arm will fit the baby or will be too loose, and work a further decrease row accordingly.

Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :

Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/whlsMemDHLc

Round 6 : (Decrease row) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

*sc 2 tog over the next 2 sc* ;

rep *to* all around

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Note : Check to see if you think the round arm will fit the baby. If you think this is too tight, then go back and change the decrease a bit… work a sc 2-tog over every alternate set of stitches and see if that works for you.

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Round 7 : hdc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 8 : hdc in the 1^st hdc and in each hdc all around ;

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat for the 2^nd armhole as well.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go