Sweet Nothings Crochet: MAISIE’s BABY DRESS

MAISIE’s BABY DRESS

This is yet another really special project for a friend’s niece. This yarn has been gifted to me and has been in my stash for quite a long time.. guess this was the place it had to go to.. and I am thrilled that I’m making this lovely creation for this new baby girl.

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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about 120 gms of Bernat Baby Softee with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; buttons; press buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette ; beads n more

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Size made : Chest : 18” ; Length 15” for a 0-3 month old

Size only given for yarn estimation

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

The stitches used are regular ordinary ones – the combinations used are complicated.

That said, the only “complication” lies in the joining of the yoke, and if you’ve made this square / rectangular yoke before, then this is totally easy-peasy for you.

Stitches used : Using U.S terminology

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

or https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/ and

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

Abbreviations used :

ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)

dc : Double crochet hk : Hook

st(s) : Stitch(es) sl-st : slip stitch

sk : Skip sp : space

rep : repeat

fsc : Foundation single crochet

Instructions

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

I take the trouble of giving LOTS of information through my blog, so may I request you to please go through it all before you start. Thank you.

I do not claim this to be my pattern , but here are my pattern notes as I make my own original project

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.

We start with the yoke, which is worked like a square / rectangle. Two parts of this square / rectangle will be the armhole sections, and the other two parts will make the front and back of the yoke.

As usual, here are your choices. You need to decide if you are using a button placket around the back, and if you are, you need to figure out how long that placket is going to be. If you are working it for the full length of the yoke, then you will work back and forth for the yoke.

If however, you want only a single button around the back, then you will work back and forth for the first few rows, join up and then work in rounds.

Now there is a link for a set of charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference to start on our yoke.

Once we complete the yoke, we will then work the skirt portion of the dress off two sides of this yoke, and the other two sides will be the armhole.

Now for the yoke, depending on what size chest you’re working with, please follow the really easy link for chest sizes (square yoke) given above. You will then calculate the pattern repeats given for the skirt, and work accordingly.

Part I : Yoke

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start : with fsc as per the chart given above for square / rectangular yokes.

The chart also gives the number of stitches per side.

Please place markers to mark the four corners of your yoke.

We’re going to work in rows from the centre back so that there is an opening for the button placket.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc and each fsc till the 1^st corner marker ;

(3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next corner fsc) ;

*dc in the next fsc and each fsc till the next corner marker ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* 2 times ;

dc in each fsc till the end. Turn.

From this row on, we really do not need our corner markers , as the ch-1 sps are our corners.

Now let’s understand where our armholes are coming in.

We started at the centre back, and then came to our 1^st corner.

The section between that 1^st and 2^nd corner will form the first armhole section.

The next armhole section is between the 3^rd and last corner.

So obviously, the section between our 2^nd and 3^rd markers is the front chest of the dress. Got it?

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc till the last dc

before the next corner ch-1 sp ; 2 dc in the next dc ;

*sk next 3 dc, (3 dc in the corner ch-1 sp ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next dc ;

dc in each dc till the last dc before the next corner ch-1 sp ;

2 dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Now remember that we’re probably working on different baby girl dress sizes here. The button hole that you want at the back will differ, so ensure that you work back and forth in rows till you are satisfied with the opening you have, and then you will just join up at the last st and work in rounds.

You could work back and forth in rows all through the yoke and join only at the last row too, giving you a nice long button placket as well, but you’re well aware of that too.

When you decide you’ve had a long enough button hole opening, please join with a sl-st and you will now work in rounds here on.

Rep Row 2 till your yoke is of the length you require.

So how do you know when your yoke is the length required?

1. Fold your yoke in half at the neckline, such that you have both halves of your yoke together. You now have a shoulder strap and then the yoke falling neatly down, such that you can measure it.

2. Measure the yoke down from the shoulder blades (straps) to the bottom of the yoke. This is the length of your yoke

3. The above measurement is also the round armhole measurement

4. I would suggest that you check round armhole measurement as the measure you need, ensuring that you are also getting the round chest measure at the same time.

5. Your Round Chest or Across Front measure is the measurement from the right hand side to the left hand side of your work. You will double (or multiply by 2) this Across Front measure to check if you have the round chest measurement for the child you’re making this dress for

6. As I always say, the best way to ensure you’re doing this just right (especially if you’re doing it for the first time), is to keep a well fitting garment of the child you are making this dress for as a template to work off.

Once you’re done with your yoke, I’d suggest we work in rounds, if you have not already started working in rounds before this. So on the last round, we will need to create our armhole, so let’s get that last round written down, shall we?

Last Yoke Round : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc till the 1^st ch-sp ; sk all sts between the 1^st and 2^nd ch-sp(which now forms the 1^st armhole) ;

and dc in the next dc (which will be your front yoke) ;

dc in each dc all the way to your 3^rd ch-sp (which is the end of your front yoke) ; sk all sts between the 3^rd and 4^th ch-sp (which will be the next armhole) ;

dc in each dc till end.

diagram showing how to join last round of yoke

Now before you head off.. count your stitches as we need multiples of 10 for the skirt portion. Please also read on before you work any further.

We will now work in rounds here on.

If you are deciding to change colours, please re-attach new coloured yarn.

Though it does not matter where you start your new colour from, I always find that it is neatest if you join it at the centre back.

Please read through till * below before you attach your yarn, whether you’re changing your yarn color or not.

Our pattern repeat for the skirt section is 12, so ensure you have it in these multiples, or tweak it such that you get multiples of 12

* Now here’s where this gets a little tricky, and this is mainly because we have this pretty big number as a stitch count / pattern repeat.

So here’s what I suggest before you join your yarn.

1. Count your stitches from one side to the other and ensure that you have multiples of 12.

2. For the skirt portion, you remember our chat a little earlier, about how we’re going to section off our armholes. So check that little note (above) again, and mark off your armholes.

3. If you are running short of just a few sts for the skirt, then you could always add them as a small chain or extra dc’s under the armhole i.e in that ch-sp just before you join your armholes. So this means that in your last row, calculate how many stitches you are running short of, and add them as a chain under the armhole, between the two ch-sps that are the armholes.

Right, you have your work cut out for you.

Re-attach your yarn as suggested, and let’s carry on.

Part 2 : Skirt/ body of dress instructions :

For our skirt portion we have two sets of “V”-sts.

Our small “V”-st is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or sp.

Our large “V”-st is (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same st or sp.

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Round 1 : Large “V”-st in the 1^st dc ;

*(ch 3, sk next 5 dc, Small “V”-st in the next dc ;

ch 3, sk next 5 dc, Large“V”-st in the next dc )* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 2 : Large “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; Small “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; Large“V”-st in the next “V”-st )* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 3 : Large “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*(ch 3, sk next sc and ch-3 sp, dc in the next dc (of the Small “V”-st) ;

4 dc in the ch-1 sp (of the Small “V”-st) ;

dc in the next dc (of the Small “V”-st) ;

ch 3, sk next sc and ch-3 sp, Large“V”-st in the next “V”-st )* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In the following round, we will use a decorative picot stitch.

Our picot stitch is a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hk).

We will also use a dc 2-tog.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

Round 4 : Large “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*(ch 2, sk next dc , dc 2-tog in the next dc ;

(ch 1 + picot + ch 1, dc 2-tog in the next dc) ;

ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next dc ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2, Large “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 5 : Large “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 3, sk next two dc 2-tog and picot , Small “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ;

ch 3, sk next two dc 2-tog and picot, Large “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

And just like that, we’ve completed one pattern repeat.

Here are a few ideas.

Please read through all of the notes before you start on the next set of repeats.

Our Rep Rounds are 2 – 5, so you could rep Rounds 2 – 5 till you have the skirt length needed for your cute little dress.

OR you could make a small difference or addition from Rounds 3, 4 & 5, where we add a dc 2-tog in each set. So let’s take a look at that too… and you can then work whichever pattern suits you.

For convenience, I’m going to just number our rows with an A.

One quick note : Our increases in the dc 2-tog will be made in the ch-sp of the Small “V”-st. Now in case you are unable to add a 3^rd dc 2-tog in that ch-1 sp, then I suggest you make it a ch-2 sp.

In this case then, the Small “V”-st will be (dc ; ch 2, dc), all in the same st or ch-sp.

Note that as usual, to add to the "frilliness" of a dress, you could increase the space between stitches ; and similarly to decrease the "laciness" and/or make it look a little more compact, you could decrease space between stitches.

Play around with this and make something unique and beautiful.

Right then.. let’s carry on with our pattern.

Round 3 A : Large “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*(ch 3, sk next sc and ch-3 sp, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp (of the Small “V”-st) ;

[ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-2 sp] ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 3, sk next sc and ch-3 sp, Large“V”-st in the next “V”-st )* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 4 A : Large “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*(ch 2, sk next 2 dc , dc 2-tog in the next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 1 + picot + ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 2, Large “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 5 A : Large “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 4, sk next three dc 2-tog and picot , Small “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ;

ch 3, sk next three dc 2-tog and picot, Large “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

You now have two sets of ideas – so you will either rep Rounds 2 – 5 OR rep Rounds 2, 3A, 4A & 5A once more, before we work the small border.

So let’s go our separate ways till we reach the length needed.

Part 3 : Border :

Border Round 1 : sl-st into the 1^st Large “V”-st , sc in the same in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*(ch 5, sc in the next picot) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

ch 5, sc in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Border Round 2 : sc + picot in the in the 1^st sc ;

(ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress made for your young lady.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ??

Part 4 : Optional :

I should also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric. I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top. The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?

For more details check https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2016/06/chandras-frilled-dress.html

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I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go