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This
dress has been on my “to-do” list for a while.. the combination of white with
the green border and the large flowers has been tempting me and I’m thrilled to
be working on this creation today.This
dress will truly bring out the creativity in you – there is so much scope to
make something so beautiful and I’m sure you’re gonna love it.
Thank you for joining me.
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Single Crochet : Sc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps.One sc made.Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
Double Triple Crochet : dtrc :wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
As
I started writing the pattern, I chanced to show what I was working on with a
friend, and she said there was this ready-made pattern for it.. so here you go.
The
pattern however starts with a fixed number of stitches, and I think it is for a waist size 21.5”.
I
am making this for a one year old, so I had to figure out how to change this a
bit.
Here are my notes, which as always, give you a stitch count.
As long as you get the stitch count right,
you can make this to any size, using any yarn and suitable hook.
Important
notes :
1)Please
read through all the instructions before you pick up your hook.
2)Please note
that I start all my rows / rounds with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
3)Please check
the top of this blog for easy video tutorials of all the stitches used
in this pattern.
We
are going to follow the basic pattern given by the designer.
I
am just going to give you tweak ideas to make it to any size.
Yes,
there is some calculation involved, but you can do
it !
Right
then.. what did I do differently?
1)As
always, I work on stitch count and the stitch count for the yoke is in multiples
of 5
2)The yoke has
two patterns – one is the lacy/holey pattern (in red in my case) and then the
white and red bit that go all the way to the shoulders.
3)For
convenience (mainly of keeping the stitch count), I worked
*4 dc ; ch 1, sk next dc* in the
white and red part of dcs.
The pattern sheet reads 5 dc, but
the designer has given number of stitches to start with too.. if that works for
you great.. else I’m hoping that my general calculation will work for all
sizes.
4)I worked
fewer rows of the red holed pattern, and then worked lesser rows of the 4-dc
sets of white and red.How do you know
how many rows.. you wing it.You take a
look at the given charts for body sizing, or keep a well-fitting dress of the
child you are making this for (as I always say), and then see how many rows you
think you need for each section.At the
end of the day, this is your creation and your creativity at play – so don’t
worry about “how many rows”
5)Once you are
done with the front and back yoke, we will start on the skirt portion.I have kept the same Shell and Split shell
ideas as given by the designer.I also
worked the first row in the same way.However
if you have not started with the designer’s stitch count, you will not work
that first row of shells 39/40 times.So
how do we get that right? I just ensured that for the skirt portion, you have
stitches in multiples of three.
6)Why do we
need multiples of 4 for skirt portion ?The designer has worked shell stitches and then a split shell st on her
7th round.I worked the same
thing on my 4th round.I
worked 2 shell sts and then 1 split shell st all around.If you have shells in multiples of 4, you
will get this done perfectly.You then
work the pattern as given.Remember
though, if you are making this for a younger child, you just check with the
length needed and tweak the number of round repeats till you get it to the
length you need for your skirt section.
7)What do I do
if I want more of a flared skirt?
This is an Advanced
skill requirement but you can do it too.
Our stitch count is in multiples of 3.
After you
have your stitches done in the first sc round
(working in white for the first
round of skirt section),
you will work a *Shell st in the 1st st ; sk
next 2 sts
and work a Shell st in the next st* ;
so instead of skipping 3
sts as given in the pattern sheet, you skip two and work the Shell
st all around.
Furthermore, when you come to the pattern sheet Round 7 for
the split
shell st ;
you work 2 shell sts and the work a split shell st in the next
st.
You will then continue with the
pattern as given.. just that you have ‘taken off’ one shell st – the pattern
sheet reads 3 shell sts in between two split shell sts, but you will have only
two shell sts and then a split shell st.
So if you can understand this and get this right, you will get the
slightly flared look for this stunning dress .. this is what I’ve done.
8)For the rest
of the dress, I have worked the same pattern – I just worked it for as much as
I needed for my baby’s dress length (skirt length + 10.25” for me)
9)I changed my last few rows a little bit.. so
for the last section (that starts with the red round, then the yellow one and
then the bigger red section
10)For the
lovely flower, I used a slightly different pattern – so you now have a choice
of the one given in the designers’ sheet and this one. Fun choices, huh?
We will
work all our petals in one continuous movement.
This means that we work the 9 ch and then work sts down that chain till
we reach the centre of the flower (the yellow we just made), and we work
another ch 9 and work the next petal – all continuously.Got it?
Row 1 :
(sc
in the 2nd ch from hook ; hdc in the next ch ;
dc in the next 4
chs ; hdc in the next ch ; sc in the last ch ;
*sl-st in
the next st ; ch 9 , Turn ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to*
all around. (12 petals)
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
This gives
you a lovely flower.In case you are
working with a thinner yarn, you could work on a fuller flower.
For that
you will be working two rounds of this same pattern.
For your
first round, you will work in the front loop of the st and for your second
round, you will use the back loop of the st.
This will
give you two rows of petals for your flower.
Fuller flower Row 1 :
(sc in the 2nd ch from hook ;
hdc in the next ch ;
dc in the next 4 chs ; hdc in the next ch ; sc in the last
ch ;
*sl-st in
the front loop of the next st ; ch 9 , Turn ;
rep (to) once*
;
rep *to*
all around ;
sl-st
into the back loop of the next st ;
rep *to*
st all around. (24 petals over two rounds)
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
I had a really fun creative day and
I do hope you did too.
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