Today we'll create a crochet baby dress with a chevron-like pattern for the skirt portion of the dress. There are so many ideas here that you can just make the cutest most unique creations for your baby girl
For the skirt portion of our dress, there are three charts that you can choose from - one of which I have used to make my creation and here are my notes as I create my own project. There are charts for different sizes of the yoke and body of dress too - so you can make this to any size using any yarn with a suitable hook. Let's see how this works together. While the charts are not mine and found on the internet, the instructions are my original notes as I work on my own project. I’m glad that you’re back here with me as we explore this new creation together. I have added a small bolero and a hat as well - to complete this full ensemble of a dress, a short bolero and a cute matching headband to bring it all beautifully together.
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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.
Materials used : Today I’ve used about 230 gms of a soft unbranded 3-ply knitting cotton (in two colors), with a 2.5 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose or White Rose knitting cotton , 4-ply knitting cotton , bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced
Size : I have made this for a 12m old, but this can be made for any size.
Size only given for yarn estimation
Stitches used :
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Abbreviations used :
ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)
dc : Double crochet hk : Hook
st(s) : Stitch(es)
sk : Skip sp : space
rep : repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
Instructions
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.
With this stunningly simple pattern, we’re going to work a raglan like yoke from the neck down to the chest.
We will then check the stitch count for the skirt portion of the dress and , and work the pattern to complete this project.
We will also make a small bolero and a matching hat - plus as promised a lovely flower motif .. so lots to do and loads of ideas and photos to inspire you.
I am planning on working the yoke portion in dc and starting with fdc (foundation double crochet).
You may choose to work in sc / hdc or dc. The pattern does not change. Your calculations and number of rows worked will depend on the stitch used, the yarn and hook you're using and the tension of your work.
Remember that you need to work a back placket opening for the child, and I suggest that you keep it open all the way to the waist for a younger child.
THE DRESS
PART 1 : Yoke
Foundation double crochet (fdc) :This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start Row 1 : with fdc using one the charts given for the neckline here depending on the age /size of child you are making this dress for.
Chart 1 : This is just a sample chart to explain what we're working on
As I have you captive here, let me throw in a few thoughts.
I have been often asked how I figure out the size using different yarn. I don’t.. I also do a little bit of trial and error. The charts have been set out and I have found that the charts that I share here do work (for me) – but what one should remember is that the age of the child (though important) is not as important as the size. So once you get the chest size (for example) but thanks to the yarn you are using or say the hook size, and you find that you have not got the length needed - *Do Not Worry* .. this is where your creativity comes in.. you just continue on till you get the length.
If the chart given for a 0-6m does not work for your 0-6m child, that is not a worry either.. there are so many charts on that link.. just work one size up or down to fit the child.
Sadly, when I am asked a question about how you can get it to fit, this is all I can say – as I do not know the size you are looking at /for and even if you do give me those details, I can only give you ideas – you would have to physically pick up that yarn and hook and work at it.
Oh I have also decided to work with two colors of yarn for my yoke.. a bit of the skirt color on the yoke just for contrast - but you do YOU 😁
So let’s get that hook n yarn going.. shall we?
We may be working on different sizes – so here’s what I suggest. You take a look at the chart and first mark out the stitch for the four corners. I will now give you instructions on what you will do from one marker to the next.
So looking at the chart above, we will work the fsc row for 106 stitches (cadenas) and then our 1st marker will be on the 16th stitch ; 2nd after 21 sts from 1st marker ; 3rd after 32 sts from 2nd marker ; 4th after 21 sts from 3rd marker and finally you'll have 16 sts left.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Row 2 : dc in the 1st fdc and in each fdc till the 1st marker ;
(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same 1st marked stitch ;
*dc in each fdc till the next marker ;
rep (to) in the marked stitch* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Note : This photo is not from this project but from an earlier project. This is just for explanation
You can now remove the markers.
Our corners are the ch-2 sps that we have just created.
We will work the next 2-dc sets in that ch-2 sp in each row.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the 1st ch-2 sp;
(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same 1st ch-2 sp ;
*dc in each dc till the next ch-2 sp ;
rep (to) in the same ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Note : This photo is not from this project but from an earlier project. This is just for explanation
Rep Row 2 till you have the shoulder width / chest width / armhole measurements as per the chart or as per the child measurements.
So once again back to Chart 1 above : the half round chest measurement will be 33 cm ; from shoulder to chest should be 16.5 cm and the shoulder width is 12 cm. There is also a neckline measurement for you to ensure you're on track. This will be for a yoke that is just till the chest.
Once you have got the above measurements, we will join the two corners under the armhole to then (a) work in rounds and (b) increase the length of the yoke till the waist level… or the level you wish to start the skirt portion from.
back to front attached, leaving armhole opening
So to join the front and back yoke, you will work all the way in dc till the 1st ch-2 corner sp, skip all the next stitches till the next ch-2 corner sp and join the 1st and 2nd corner sps. You will then work all the way till the 3rd ch-2 corner sp and once again join the 3rd and 4th corner sps. In this way, you have a front and back along with two armholes created all in one go.
Note : This photo is not from this project but from an earlier project. This is just for explanation
I have decided to work my chevron pattern right off the yoke - but in case you want to work it from the waist, continue working in rounds in dc till you get to the length you
want for your yoke. Note the number of sts you need for the skirt chevron pattern and ensure that you have that count when you decide to start the chevron pattern.
As I am stopping at this point, I am going to work the placket for both sides.
So I will turn at the end of the last row and work up and down one side of the back till I get a placket width I want. Remember that girls button up right side over left, so ensure you have the buttons and button-holes worked up as you work the placket.
(Ladies button on left hand side placket). I then continued up along the placket one last time till I reached the neckline and worked along the neckline till I reached the other side placket (right hand side back)
Note : This photo is not from this project but from an earlier project. This is just for explanation
Note : One of the photos is not from this project but from an earlier project.
In the 3rd row, I worked my button holes. For this I worked 1 sc in the 1st st : then (ch 2, and skipped the next 2 sts ; sc in the next 8 sts) ; rep (to) till the end.
In the following row, work 1 sc in each st and 2 sc in the ch-2 sp till end.
In the following row work 1 sc in each st till end. You should be at the waist end (not neckline end - if you are at neckline sl-st all the way down)
Now I held both back plackets together to overlap and worked sc into both plackets for the first few sts to hold the plackets together ; and then worked sc all around. In this sc round, ensure that you have the required number of sts for the skirt as per stitch count given.
Note : If you decide to make a crochet tie (instead of using a satin ribbon for that waist / chest band part), then please work a row of holes to thread your ribbon in.
A crochet tie does not move as smoothly as a satin ribbon so here's what I'd suggest.
Before you work Part 2 , make the tie (which is in Part 3) and then work a row of holes at the waist part of the yoke
Tie holes : Dc in the 1st 2 sts ;
(ch 2, sk next 2 sts , dc in the next 2 sts) ;
rep (to) till end ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
PART 2 : Skirt portion of dress
I found three lovely chevron patterns. So if you can read pattern charts, go ahead.
If not, you will work on the pattern that I have chosen from Chart 3 & I've used my artistic licence to change it a bit to suit my client's requirement.
.
Chart 1. Chart 2. Chart 3
For the skirt we will work in one piece, so ensure that you join the two parts of the yoke back in the last row of work.
The stitch count for the skirt is in multiples of 4
So when you are ready to start on your skirt, ensure that you have the stitch count right. Note that I have changed the stitch count as I want more of a flare for my skirt.
Notes for Advanced crocheters :
As I have said in my blogs before, depending on how much flare you wish for your skirt, increase the number of stitches (still keeping the multiples right) so that you get a better flare. The other thing that you could do (especially for this pattern) is reduce the number of sts skipped between "V"-sts.
I would also like to add that though I have indicated number of row repeats, I would suggest that you work it your own way with these ideas in mind :
a) Work a few rows and see how many inches you get (in length) per row – i.e work out your gauge.
b) Decide how long you want your skirt part and the whole dress from shoulder down
c) Working with your gauge, figure out how many rows you can repeat with the pattern. Once you reach the skirt flare you want, stop increases and continue the pattern without increase till you reach the required length
d) With this pattern, as with many of my earlier patterns, I urge you to be creative and explore the pattern a bit.
We start & end at the back of the dress for a neat finish.
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Chart 3 zoomed in for first two rounds
Our "V"-st is (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Round 1 : 2 dc in the 1st st ;
(sk next 3 sts , "V"-st in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around ;
2 dc in the last /first st ;
dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Note : Working a dc and joining to the 1st st means you are in the centre of that last ch-2 sp. In case this is confusing, please work ch 2 and join to the 1st st. Then sl-st into that 1st ch-sp to start your next round.
Advanced crocheters are aware of this so the next bit is for you.
Now for convenience of not so advanced crocheters, I will be writing sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp BUT if you have ended with the dc join, you ARE in the 1st ch-2 sp so ignore the sl-st bit. OK?
Round 2 : "V"-st in the 1st ch-2 sp of the 1st "V"-st ;
(ch 1, "V"-st in the next "V"-st) ;
rep (to) all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Chart 3 zoomed in for round 3 onwards
Once again I'm altering the pattern a bit as I want a pattern without too much laciness (or holes 😉)
Round 3 : "V"-st in the 1st ch-2 sp of the 1st "V"-st ;
(ch 1, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc ; "V"-st in the next "V"-st ; dc in the next dc) ;
*sk next 3 dc, "V"-st in the next "V"-st ;
sk next 3 dc ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : (Increase row) : "V"-st in the 1st ch-2 sp of the 1st "V"-st ;
(sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 2 dc ; "V"-st in the next "V"-st ; dc in the next 2 dc) ;
*sk next 3 dc, "V"-st in the next "V"-st ;
sk next 3 dc ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 :(Increase row) : "V"-st in the 1st ch-2 sp of the 1st "V"-st ;
(sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; "V"-st in the next "V"-st ; dc in the next 3 dc) ;
*sk next 3 dc, next 3 dc,"V"-st in the next "V"-st ;
sk next 3 dc ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
I think you have understood what we're doing here but I'll just explain it again anyway.
So we've gone around and worked a round of "V"-sts and every other "V"-st grows.
We added 2 sts to our first round (Round 4 - our first Increase row ), so the "V"-st has 2 dc on either side of it.
In Round 5 (next Increase row), we added another 2 sts, so the "V"-st has 3 dc on either side of it.
So yes, as you guessed, in Round 6, we add another 2 sts, so the "V"-st has 4 dc on either side of it and so on.
Slowly you'll see the fan-like 'chevron-like' pattern grow.
Now here's the fun part.
At any time, you can decide to stop growing your "V"-st (well, I'm just calling it a "V"-st for convenience but it is actually the Growing "V"-st).
Keep an eye on the length you need for your dress as you grow the "V"-st.
If/when you decide to stop growing the "V"-st well before the end, then here's what you do.
I decided to stop when I had a total of 16 sts (so 8 sts then the ch-1 sp and 8 sts on the other side). In the following row, as before we skip that 1st st, and work in each of the next 8 dc (in my case) till you reach the ch-1 sp, and then work (dc ; ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 sp. At the end of that segment you still have 16 sts and that continues till you reach the end of your project.
So our "V"-st now changes from [2 dc ; ch 1, dc] to the (to).
Continue working this new pattern till you have the length you need for your baby dress
PART 3 : A simple tie : You can just buy a matching satin ribbon - but here's another idea.
I decided to crochet my ribbon. If you do this please decide on this before.. because a crochet tie does not move as smoothly as a satin ribbon, so you need to work a row of holes. I didn't and I'm lucky that my tie worked - and I've managed to thread it through the ch-sps of the first row of "V"-sts but why take a chance, right?
Tie Row 1 : Work a fsc chain for the length of your tie or ribbon. It should be about 1.5 - 1.75 times the round waist (so say round waist is 20", you should work at least 30-35"). The number of sts does not matter - we need the length. Turn at the end
Tie Row 2 : sc in the 1st st and in each st till end.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Part 3A : A second tie idea : You can work the same above pattern in two colors. So at the end of the fsc chain, attach the 2nd color and then work in sc all the way back to the start in the 2nd color. This is what I've done.
Part 3B : Tie finishing idea : Over and above working the tie in two colors you can also give a small finish at the end. You can work this finish even if you are using only one color.
At the end of the fsc chain, (work ch 6. Turn and work sc in the 2nd ch from hk, hdc in the next ch, dc in the last 3 ch and sl-st in the fsc chain).
(to) is a leaf pattern. Rep the leaf pattern 2 more times to get 3 leaves.
After you finish the last leaf and have worked that last sl-st continue down the row with sc to the other end. Work the 3 leaves at the other end, sl-st into the fsc chain ; fasten off and weave in ends.
PART 4 : The Bolero : I followed the basic pattern for the bolero here
This is another paid pattern here that I have worked on before
I worked this in dc all through and I started with 52 fdc
1) There is a gauge on the pattern sheet that you must check out first. (Gauge: 5dc x 2.5 rows = 1 inch)
2) The bolero is worked from the neck down - so that first row is around neck. I'd advise that you check that that measurement works for you.
3) I worked the pattern all the way till the frilly lacy portion. Now as I want it to match my dress, rather than copy the lacy end pattern from the bolero, I worked the shelled skirt pattern (of the dress).
Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) : This is an easy way to start a row of hdc without the starting chain row.
Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/SEG2UCRfypA
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
For our last round, you can decide to work a picot in the middle of your border pattern. This is optional and you can well decide to just leave it as a ch-3 sp as well.
Just in case some of the explanation is a little unclear, here are a few photos
Row 15 : Joining back and front, leaving an armhole opening
Just to keep the pattern the similar to that of the skirt, I've tried to copy the skirt pattern.
So for the first round work a round of sc from the front panel, down to the chest then around chest and back to the front panel on the other side and ensure that you have a stitch count in multiples of 5 + 2. You may need to re-attach your yarn at the top of front panel / placket to start.
We then basically follow the pattern for the skirt. In the skirt we worked in rounds and as we wanted a flared skirt, I reduced the space between "V"-sts. Here we do not want that much of a flare so I'll go back to the charted pattern.I will start and end with a dc - so I'll kick start you off with the pattern, which I'm sure you'll figure very quickly as only the first row has a difference.. our stitch count is in multiples of 5 (not 4 as we had for the skirt)
Our "V"-st is (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Row 1 : dc in the 1st st ;
(sk next 4 sts , "V"-st in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around ;
dc in the last st. Turn
Now you can either continue working this same pattern (Row 1) all through, starting and ending with a dc, and working the "V"-st in each "V"-st till you have the two front lapels meeting OR you can work the pattern we did for the skirt which is a small increase of the "V"-st.
Round 3 : "dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc ; "V"-st in the next "V"-st ; dc in the next dc ;
*sk next 3 dc, "V"-st in the next "V"-st ;
(ch 1, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc ; "V"-st in the next "V"-st ; dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : (Increase row) : "V"-st in the 1st ch-2 sp of the 1st "V"-st ;
(sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 2 dc ; "V"-st in the next "V"-st ; dc in the next 2 dc) ;
*sk next 3 dc, "V"-st in the next "V"-st ;
sk next 3 dc ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 : (Increase row) : "V"-st in the 1st ch-2 sp of the 1st "V"-st ;
(sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; "V"-st in the next "V"-st ; dc in the next 3 dc) ;
*sk next 3 dc, next 3 dc,"V"-st in the next "V"-st ;
sk next 3 dc ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
I'd say for this tiny bolero, working till Round 4 or Round 5 and then repeating that without increase should be ideal.
Remember that if you want to add a button, you need to add a button hole. For that all I did was increase the ch-sp in the "V"-st at the top of the placket (as I decided to add only one button) and ensure that the button slips through that sp you have made.
pattern detail along plackets, the two plackets complete & button & button hole detail
For a final finish you could add a round of picot. (I haven't just fyi)
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook). Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
We will work a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3rd ch from hk).Part 4 : Sleeves
I have not worked sleeves on my baby dress, but here are ideas in case you want to
Had I worked in sleeves, I’d have made them oversized and puffed. For this, first run a round of sc all around the armhole edge. Remember as usual, that you will work one sc in each st, and 2 sc per horizontal bar of dc. Ensure that you have an even number of sc when you finish.
I would then work Round 1 and Round 2 of the skirt pattern.
I would repeat Round 2 till I had the length I wanted for my sleeve.
I would repeat Round 2 till I had the length I wanted for my sleeve.
Then I'd work a small set of decrease rounds OR work just Round 1 (decrease round) and then add an elastic. See what works for you.
Round 1 : (Decrease row) :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*sk the next 2 dc, sc in the sp between the next 2 sts ;
sk the next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp*
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Note : Check to see if you think the round arm will fit the baby or will be too loose, and work a further decrease row accordingly.
Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :
Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/whlsMemDHLc
Round 2 : (Decrease row) :
sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ;
*sc 2 tog over the next 2 sc* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Note : Check to see if you think the round arm will fit the baby. If you think this is too tight, then go back and change the decrease a bit… work a sc 2-tog over every alternate set of stitches and see if that works for you.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Round 3 : (Decrease row) : hdc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : (Decrease row) : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat for the 2nd armhole as well.
Adding elastic :
Instead of decreasing you can also opt to add elastic. In case this is what you wish to do, work as many rows as you want for the length of your sleeve and add the elastic in the final round. Measure the round arm and the elastic needs to be about 3/4ths round arm measure. Secure the two ends of the elastic and then work as shown in the video below.
How to attach elastic in crochet : https://youtu.be/T5Qc3q2N0ds
And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !
Oh and before you leave here, let me show you another similar dress that I made for an older lil girl HERE
OPTIONAL 1 : HEADBAND : In case you want to make this headband, go here
The full set - of a beautiful dress, with a matching bolero and headband
Here are some more ideas, in case you have yarn and want to spiff your creation a little more
OPTIONAL 2 : A FLOWER MOTIF
Flower motif : You can add a small rose on the bodice / yoke.
You can find a small rose motif pattern at this link and you’ll get not only the rose but also some fun stuff for hair.. and which little girl doesn’t like stuff for hair.. so have fun.
Check this link too
Here's another idea
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Start Round 1 with a magic circle and work 20 sc in it.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
(ch 3, sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0Round 2 sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp :
trc in that same 1st ch-3 sp ;
*(ch 1, trc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
[ch 1, trc in the next ch-3 sp]* ;
rep *to* all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and leave a tail
To attach to dress :
There are two ways to use this floral motif. Use the tail you have left to attach it as you desire
1) Permanently attach it to the dress
2) Attach it to a safety pin so it can be used for different pieces of clothing.
3) You can also add a bead in the centre
OPTIONAL 3 : THE HEADWEAR
Note : This is from an earlier project - but it works for this present project as well. I have not made this as part of today's project.
I have done a combination pattern with a brim to match the dress.
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and work 12 hdc in it.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st (12 sts)
Round 2 : Increase round : 2 hdc in the 1st st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st (24 sts)
Round 3 : Increase round : 2 hdc in the 1st st ;
(hdc in the next st ; 2 hdc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around ;
and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st (36 sts)
Round 4 : Non - Increase round : hdc in the 1st st and in each st all around
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st (36 sts)
Round 5 : Increase round : hdc in the 1st st ;
(hdc in the next 2 sts ; hdc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around ;
and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st (48 sts)
Stop and measure the diameter of your round. Look at the circumference calculation notes before continuing with pattern.
Circumference calculations
Here's a great way to check circumference
To check, you are either going to wear the beanie, or check with the head size chart given at the top of this blog.
Remember that yarn stretches - so if it's a bit snug, it's good
1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Now what does this mean ?
Let's take a practical example. Take the 3month beanie size from the head sizing chart below (which is from the links above, just fyi)
So the circumference of a 3-month old beanie is 16". Our circumference calculations say divide the circumference by 3.14 - so we divide 16/3.14 = 5.09"
This means that once your circumference of work is around 5", you stop the increase rounds and start working just the non-increase rounds.
You will then continue working the non-increase round pattern all the way till the length desired (which for this 3-month baby beanie example is 6"
Exactly the same thing for all sizes - so for Adult Small it is 22/3.14 = 7 and work this for a length of 8.25".
and here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Rep Rounds 4 & 5 increasing till you have the circumference needed then stop increases and work till you have the length needed for your cap.
We will then work the pattern for the brim of your cap.
About 1" before I reached the length needed for the cap, I worked the shelled skirt pattern (from the skirt portion of the dress) for the floppy lacy brim.
Brim pattern Round 1 : (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) in the 1st st ;
[sk next 2 sts ; (to) in the next st] ;
rep [to] all around ;
dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
NOTE : The dc + join to 1st st keeps you right in the centre of that last ch-2 sp of the last "V"-st. In case this is too hard to do, please finish the last "V"-st and then sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp of the "V" st to start.
Brim pattern Rounds 2 & 3 : (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) in the 1st ch-sp ;
[(3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) in the ch-2 sp] ;
rep [to] all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
If you are making this for an older child or want a larger brim :
Brim pattern Round 3 : (4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) all in the 1st ch-sp of the 1st "V"st ;
[rep (to) in the ch-2 sp] ;
rep [to] all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Yes, wasn't this just a superb creation. I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
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I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Here are some of my tops
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
Here is a list of my earlier miscellaneous home use projects. Enjoy
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